ThomasG

Ignore my message...I just saw...an A3. Good luck though!

Is yours the BiTdi?

Hello, the system flagged you'd replied to this thread.

On 4/15/2022 at 6:04 PM, Stevey Y said:

ts the control module on the turbo which will be either vacuum controlled or an electrical control box my guess is its vacuum and not holding the pressure and depending on your model of turbine the units are available as a replacement for around £70-100.

Stevey Y was correct. You could try to replace yourself as they will charge you for !Removed! diagnostics now. I foolishly didn't include the part number in the photos...

Good luck, and just tell them, the teeth will be off it, and it just needs replacing...as they suck through theirs and shake their heads...

I had a few fail. Also make sure you get a gen part. I ended up paying twice when I didn't.

But go for a run with the auto-dip on, if that won't work, it's the level sensor:

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/4h0941286g/level-sensor-with-poles

They've gone up in price!! jeez

Change the ride height sensor first. Though they are 80 quid.

It's just I had a similar thing, and it was the sensor on the axle - have your auto-dipping lights failed too?

I had winter tyres all year on a volvo once. The howl in the summer...

Ive not had that residual pressure when ive had sensor issues. I think it may be the airbag 😞

Thing about sensors too, is that you do need to get good ones. 

I had this, here's the thread...

Look at the thread above. It will be the useless plastic teeth problem ...

Goo luck

My ACC has died - scan says no signal. Has anyone had any experience with refitting these things, and then the dreaded calibration?

Also, I can't seem to see where to take the front off to access it without a lift.

ODBEleven...It's fantastic.

It's solved many problems, and also allowed me to argue the toss with the garage!

Can you hear the pump? Mine gets blocked. Pull it off an stick a pin in 🙂

Have you scanned it and made sure it's not just a sensor?

The garage changed it - but it shouldn't need coding.

Haha, we don't have those new-fangled food delivery services here 😉

OK, they've called - it is injector 5 - they are going to replace, but have warned me it could be either a straightforward job, if it comes out no bother, or not if it's seized in. They are on a 3 week lead time at the moment - and they've given me a....Nissan Note for the runaround!! 08 plate, can't go into Glasgow with this either! LOL

Fingers-crossed, though I've just received a text to call them 😞

Ahh ok. It's in the garage now...they are scanning and checking 

1 hour ago, jasonj said:

Hi Thomas , Do you have any Fault codes? Jasonj

Hi Jason, no - none. I just monitored the engine whilst running and got outputs outside what all the other injectors were showing...

OK, I am already depressed by the thought of the cost of this, but any insights may help me.

So, I noticed a lack of power when I put my foot down, the car seemed to take a bit to kick in. Turbo cleaner in a full tank...

I had also noticed a tapping noise when starting cold, goes when warm. Checked the oil, all ok.

Then I scanned the car and there are readings well out of synch with others on injector 5. So injector cleaner in...

Now, the car started misfiring when I started it up. On idle it juddered - 1.5k revs all fine. Read up a little and realised you have to sit with fairly high revs for a bit.

By now I had booked into garage, as they have a 2 week lead at the moment.

Started it yesterday and sat with high revs, all seems fine. 

Started it today to drive to garage, all fine - but the tapping is back (it's a cold day in Scotland today), and by the time I had drive 3 miles to the garage - all is well - I could accelerate well...

However, the garage say they no longer "do engine work" - it would be sent to Audi or to Border Engines in Berwick should they find a problem.

So - any ideas? I am dreading the cost of replacement injectors, or even worse a piston slap issue, or timing chain. It's at 116k miles, so maybe it's that. 

Bah

I am an idiot. It's not your bearing, it's your caliper. Sorry. Giving out bad info. It's my age and memory 🙂 or constantly fixing the !Removed! car!

To check, when it makes the noise, just touch your brake and if it goes away it's the blumming calliper 

Mine kicked in when going slower. In villages and setting off. Intermittent I agree. 

Had it twice from the front end both times. 

Does is sound like an owl hooting for a long time? Howling!?

If so, I've had that twice. It's your bearing. 

Sorry, I forgot to give the update to this!!

Mechanic's txt: "Anti roll bar link, also broken exhaust bracket and rear exhaust heat shield, but rattle was arb link"

MOT missed them all!! But all ok now and running well.

My daughter did the bonnet thing and it worked. 

Ta