AlanMcM82

Checked the interwebs and its difficult to find a diy for the full change. Did find a video for the relay but its in french and shows its under the window wipers, located them and found 4 relays and not sure which one it is. Also with the plugs for the compressor Im not sure which way they go back together

Hi All Relay stuck on and destroyed the compressor, new one has arrived and been installed but cannot find the relay location. Any idea where exactly it is? Checked Google and getting that its in one of the black boxes at the windscreen, under the dash, under the passenger seat and behind the fuses inside the cabin. Just looking exact location so I change the correct one. Thanks

Latest update on this, I've been leaving the car unlocked overnight for the last 3 nights and every time I come out to start the car it starts with no issue and sounds strong when starting. My usual commute to work is about 20mins there and 20 mins back so not sure if that's enough to charge the battery properly. So I've a good few days off and have been travelling about the place on long 2-3 hr drives and this should charge the battery properly and may have helped. So tonight plan is to lock the car up and see what happens tomorrow. If it still starts fine then possibly just needed a good charge, if issue persists then looking at alternator and voltage regulator. I think the added drain of the alarm and immobiliser is possibly causing too much of a drain and results in not enough voltage to start.

Right so battery still draining over night, came out and checked after leaving it 2 nights and it was sitting at 5V which is not even enough to open the boot. So using my old battery I charged up l use that to start the car. When the car is running the voltage is 13.3V so thinking now the actual problem is the alternator or voltage regulator. Does anyone have a DIY of the alternator change on a 3 litre diesel? Seen a few videos of taking the front bumper, radiator, headlights etc off to get access and don't fancy going that deep into the car.

I've the clamp meter for the job, issue is car is drawing 0.1A after switch off and then 3 hours later when I checked it again it was still drawing the same amount. Went out last night after it sitting for 8 hours and the car started fine. Left it over night and then this morning the car started fine again. It's baffling as to what the problem is. Maybe the control module has dried out and corrected itself. Would any of the windows being down affect the battery drain? Or would not locking the car with the remote cause it? Both of these occasions I did not lock the car with the remote and car was fine. I have locked it via the remote this morning so will see how it performs tonight when I finish work.

Hi guys, approx 4 months ago car developed a battery drain and I asummed it was the battery and replaced it with a new one. Everything has been fine since then until the last few days, where it is doing the same thing again. I have been jumping the car twice a day, before and after work from the old battery I charged up at home and having to leave the boot open so I can get access to the current battery and the old one as its now in the boot as well. Is their an easy way to find the fault? or is their a way of accessing the boot without climbing through the back of the car to do so? I did have a drum of water in the boot that spilled and filled the spare wheel well and has soaked the battery management module and im not sure if this could be causing the problem. Previously when the fault developed there was no ingress of water so im skeptical. Alternatively is their anything under the bonnet that can be disconnected and reconnected each time to cut the power from the car while not is use? Thanks Alan