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BigTownz

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Everything posted by BigTownz

  1. I know this is an old post but its not as simple as just buying updated maps. You have different versions of the multimedia player (RMC etc) and then they will need to be activated/paired with your car. On some models that have a sim and google etc you can download the updates.
  2. Did you ever figure this out? I am potentially wanting the same done dependent on time and price. I can imagine you will need re-coding with VCDS
  3. Not sure about the airbag but you will have to get your new steering wheel re-coded by VCDS if any buttons are different from the original steering wheel
  4. agreed, I would also have it on a diagnostics machine to see if it picked up a fault beforehand. So many things it could be from turbo veins, to boost pipe, to egr valve (just to name a few). You will end up throwing money down the drain if you just start replacing parts without actually knowing.
  5. That's great news, thank you... So, the garage have sent me a couple videos now and my belt had failed due to the crank seal failing and the belt being covered in oil. I have uploaded two videos to my google drive for you or anyone else to view. Please note these might not play immediately due to still processing. I have also had to cut the videos down to hide my registration and to localise to the immediate issue (as they done a full car inspection via video) Video 1 is when it first arrived at the garage https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uX70gIGqmE8P1npxSmqayAnmLh9zAup8/view?usp=sharing Video 2 is after stripping the required area down https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uYw1irhYg2WdgOrm2SH8DHOdvejRDZqV/view?usp=sharing The quoted cost of repair is: Cam belt £625 VAT Inc. - With this they also change the water pump, the coolant fluids & give a lifetime warranty on the cam belt. When it needs changing again its free. Crank seal £95 Vat Inc. So far that's £864 😞. But if it gets my baby better then so be it lol.
  6. Morning Steve, I have managed to find a video which shows the cam belt change and the sensor location for our model. It looks like on our model the sensor is integrated with one of the tensioners/pullies and as you correctly described it has a wire coming off it too. The only problem for me is the video isn't in English 😆. I have coded the video link, not sure if this is required on this site? I have already spoken to a garage (8am lol) and I'm currently awaiting a call back. I will ask them to take pictures of the belt next to the replacement etc and post the results. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49PGX_URn7A
  7. Thank you for this information. Since owning the car for the past 2 years I haven't had the cam belt changed and when I bought it, it was already on 110,000. I have just checked for the service manual and it doesn't seem to be in the pack, maybe I have moved it to another folder or even worst lost it 😞. I will ring Audi in the morning and see if they have the history of the vehicle. In regards to the cambelt cover I think mine is at the front of the engine (Closest to the bonnet) not rear. Looks like I will have to bite the bullet and have it recovered to a local garage. Just to pick your brains, do you think my engine could be damaged if the belt has stretched? I feel it maybe the belt over stretching over the sensor.
  8. So, after trawling the net I think I have found the sensor I requir (G40) for a cheaper price than Audi quoted, I just need to locate the old one to compare the OEM number and visual elements
  9. I have rang Audi today regarding the sensor and they have stated the G40 sensor brings up 4 different part numbers but he didn't want to give them to me 😣. Cost for a sensor starts at £70.27+vat and takes approx three days to arrive as they don't keep them in stock. Also I would need to remove the old sensor and take it up to them so they can match it 😠😠😠. Believe it or not this was a main dealership and they seemed like they didn't even know what they were talking about. I also asked where the sensors are located and his reply was, he don't know, normally close to the crank casing
  10. I have VCDS if anyone in my area requires the use of it please let me know :-)
  11. Thats the site I found which made me think my timing had slipped. I guess its a process of elimimation and to start with the sensor should be changed first as this is the next logical step.
  12. Im looking at my log book and the BHP is in KW? 140KW is the power which after googling equates to 187bhp (190),engine number is CHNA045295, also under "variant" it states ACNHAF1 if this helps? Thank you for your time, its much appreciated.
  13. I've tried this site and it dont seem to be any good for me. Cant find the part and it dont recognise my VIN
  14. After reading up it could be that the timing has slipped slightly 😢 That sounds like an expensive job, long job **Possible Causes** Timing Issue Camshaft Adjuster
  15. I have ran another test and heres what VCDS has throws up. The car took ages to start and when it did it ran rough. try revving the car and it had no power, it wouldn't even get above 1000rpm ------ 1 Fault found: 4096 - Bank 1: CMP Sensor (G40)/Engine Speed Sensor (G28) P0016 00 [167] - Incorrect Correlation MIL ON - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 204852 km Date: 2021 .02 .14 Time: 13:26:35 Engine speed: 877.50/min Normal load value: 50.6% Vehicle speed: 0km/h Coolant temperature: 12c Intake air temperature 3c Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 13.740 V Unlearning counter according ODB: 40 Engine start: start synchronization: EPM_MODE_OK Engine start: start synchronization-Test_Program_Epm st Op Mode State t UBY
  16. Thank you, I will run another diagnostic on it and post the results here. Thats a massive help
  17. Not a problem I totally understand about grabbing the work whilst you can. With it still being a sensor, could this still be the reason for the loss of power/cutting out?
  18. Morning Steve, please see my VIN number below: WAUZZZ4G1FN031579
  19. Thank you, I will post my vin in the morning to see if you can locate the exact position and take it from there 🙂 . Also I do have VCDS, which tbf has been a life saver
  20. Hi all, I am new here so sorry if I don't post things in the correct format or to how you are all used to. Basically to put it as it is, my car appears to be f*cked. Now theres several things surrounding the symptoms to which im hoping you can all help me diagnose. Let me start from the beginning. -Firstly, I had an issue with the DPF saying the system had malfunctioned etc. To combat this and to future proof any other issues, I bought VCDS and forced a regeneration which seemed to solve this issue for a short period of time. -Then the issue came back combined with a Oxygen sensor fault. So I replaced the oxygen sensor, cleared errors and forced another DPF regeneration. This resolved all issues.... for the time being..... -The DPF issue came back again and again almost on a monthly cycle. Now my car is used for a lot of short journeys due to my wife being a carer, so I assumed its because of this the soot isn't getting a chance to burn off... -Then the DPF issue came back but this time with the glow plug light flashing. After reading up it was apparent this is a know cause of the DPF again or other issues (not necessarily the glow plugs even though it did find an error on cylinder 2 glow plug). I ran the DPF regeneration again and cleared faults. All seemed to be fine for a few weeks, Then boom, the same issue... But this time car goes into limp mode. Repeated the same steps then all was fine. -A few days ago, DPF error comes up again with the glow plug light, but after reading the codes this time it throws up the cylinder 2 glow plug and the G40 speed sensor. So today I had the glow plugs replaced and reset the codes but after this the glow plug light was still on and the g40 speed sensor code still remained and the car remained in limp mode. I drove the car home (approx half a mile) and proceeded to run the DPF regen on my drive but it wouldn't complete so I had to abort the procedure. When reading the soot levels it was reading as 33.60g soot levels. I Decided to test it round the block and it lost all power. I couldn't even reverse onto my drive, it actually stalled, so I had to push it back on. Im thinking it could either be 1 of 2 things or a combination of both. 1. DPF is fully blocked, 2. g40 sensor is blocked, 3 combination of both. My questions are; Regarding sensor: where is the g40 sensor located on my audi? what is the actual part number for this sensor? Regarding DPF: where is this located (under bonnet or under car), do you think it sounds blocked? Would you get it removed and bypassed? Sorry for such a long post, I just thought its best I fit as much in as I can think of. If you need any other information please do no hesitate to ask.
  21. Hi all, Just a quick post to say hello and thank you for allowing me to join your group. As the title says im a little embarrassed as 1. I didn't know this group existed, and 2. I only joined as I have an issue. Anyway, now I do know this exists, im happy to say I hope to be here for the foreseeable future 🙂
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