JMKC82

Hi Charles,

Instead of ceramic, look at 'coated' rotors/discs.

I know exactly what you are saying about the discs with slight surface rust every morning.  So i've been looking at Brembo's UV treated rotors.

https://www.brembo.com/jp/ComunicatiStampa/2012/Brembo_UV_Coated_Discs_EN.pdf

Let us (me) know if you get these, and how you get on 🙂

Thanks, Joe

Hi Simon,

The type (petrol, diesel, hybrid) of car you get will depend on your mileage.

And what you are willing to sacrifice and how you drive the car.

I do about 15 to 20k+ miles per year, mostly dual carriageways.  So diesel is a no brainer for me.

But i changed my diesel to a hybrid, getting 55mpg with diesel or 35mpg with the hybrid (when using petrol).  But with the hybrid, when i go to work (about 20 miles each way dual carriageway) i can do electric each way which is only about 4p a mile which is reasonable for a SUV.

Thanks, Joe

Hi Simon,

I believe the maps are released every 6 months.  Personally, i wouldn't bother with Audi map updates, and just get a mount for your phone.  Waze or google maps or similar are constantly up to date and provide good traffic info, etc, most importantly FREE.

Just my thought.

Thanks, Joe

Hi Lorraine,

Are you saying you are getting wisps of smoke from these locations when the engine is hot (and off).  Is this when you remove the oil cap and dip stick?  Or when the oil cap and dip stick are in place?

If you are saying it is when you remove the oil cap / dip stick, i would say this could just be hot oil vapours?

If it is happening when the oil cap / dip stick is in place, i would say i haven't heard this before either.  But still could be hot oil vapours.

Thanks, Joe

Hi,

I have a 2020 Q5 55.  I don't get this whining noise.  I also suspect it could be from the turbo.

I'm sure the engine (and everything else), has changed in the last 3-4 years.  Just also wondering if they have reduced on the insulation / noise dampening?  Could be my car is making the same noise, just that i'm not hearing it (or i'm going deaf).

If you want to double check it yourself, you could take it to a Rolling Road (someone who does remaps).  I'm not asking you to do a remap or rev the engine hard or anything.  Just put it on the rolling road and ask them to stick their computer on it, and then rev the car up gently (or how you wish), and you should be able to hear the noise and directly compare with the Turbo boost.  If it matches, there you have it.  You won't void the warranty, as you are not actually doing any work to the car (unless you get a remap :D).

I hope you can get it sorted.

Thanks, Joe

Hi Ciaran,

Unfortunately it is not just about battery capacity.  As mentioned by Tony, you also need to account for weight and aerodynamics, etc.  With a slight added weight, and less aerodynamics, maybe bigger tyres so higher rolling resistance, etc, could all contribute to lower MPKWH.  Any added electrics as well like a cool box, heated seated, etc?

Also, the weather has been a little colder recently, so have you had the heating on more?

I just don't want you to think about comparing apples with apples.

Finally, i do have to say 1.8 MPKWH is quite low.

Thanks, Joe

Hi All,

In the UK, all petrol and diesel come from only a handful of refineries; Immingham, Fawley, Grangemouth, and a couple others.  All petrol stations (branded and supermarket) share the same 'base' fuel and add their own additives.

The things that cost 'more' money are the additives they add (cost money to develop), and the octane / cetane content.

I have Fuelpecker and now WEX, so generally always use ESSO.  I also use Millers additive which supposedly adds Octane.

I've used supermarket fuel before (and still do on occasion), and for some strange reason, Morrisons fuel has always caused my car to hesitate from time to time, so i do stay away from that if i can.  If they are using the same 'base' fuel, it makes me wonder if Morrisons, or other supermarkets reduce what they add to the base fuel (octane/cetane/additives)?

Thanks, Joe

Hi Richard,

Sorry if i have missed it, but have you noticed the oil leak?  Have you had to top up with oil and how much / how often?

Thanks, Joe

I use Castrol, but Audi do recommend Quantum.

I wouldn't always look at price.  Just because it is more expensive, doesn't mean it is better.

Thanks,

I'm not a mechanic, but i just take my time and use common sense.

No such thing as over servicing.

As per my previous message, Audi recommend i change the air filter at 60k miles.  Crazy, as the engine needs to breathe, and a reduced flow filter will make everything work harder (turbo, engine, etc). Changed every 20k and cost me £12 each time.

Thanks, Joe

I agree with Gareth.  If it is not down on paper or in the Audi system, unfortunately you might get a lower price when you sell it.

Saying that, it hasn't put me off.  2020 Q5, and i'm doing most of the work myself.  I trust myself more than a garage who thinks of customers as 'numbers' or £££.  Using quality parts.  Oil (changed every 12k instead of recommend 20k) and air filter (changed at 20k instead of 60k), spark plugs (changed at 30k instead of 40k), pollen filter, brake disc and pads all round, brake fluid, DSG, etc.

And thanks for reminding me, i haven't actually done the fuel filter, which i'll look to do when the weather gets better.

Just my thoughts,

Thanks, Joe

On 12/16/2023 at 3:44 PM, Giddy72 said:

quote for £299

Hi Gideon,

That's a good price.  Is it a standard 'map', or what I recommend is doing a rolling road remap?

If it is a rolling road remap, that is a great price, and you'll have to tell us which company.

Thanks, Joe

Hi,

Something i don't like doing, but a full factory reset of the MMI?

I would have done this first before updating the firmware.

Thanks,

Hi Conor,

Did you have this issue before you updated the firmware?

On my previous 2017 A4 B9, a 3rd party company was updating my maps, and at the same time they said they 'had' to update the firmware.  I started having issues like you mentioned as well.  I ended up reverting back to the original map and firmware and the 3rd party company was close to bricking the unit i think as it took them the whole day to fix it.  It is difficult to roll back firmware updates i am told.

Lesson to be learnt for me, don't update firmware unless you absolutely need to.

Thanks, Joe

Hi,

As Gareth mentioned, you've highlighted the door shut gaps.  They seem to be consistent spacing, and i'm just wondering if someone has added those finger protector things?

Anyway, my very first thought when you asked the question is, if you are not sure, don't go for it.  And you haven't even viewed the car in person, so that is another risk.  Nothing beats looking at the car yourself, but not only that, smelling the car (previous owner smoker), listening to the engine run, etc.

A 2020 Q3 at auction??  Question marks, but could be genuine reason.

Thanks, Joe

Hi Victoria,

Could it simply be that when you are going through the city that the engine is on idle or lower RPM more, therefore not generating heat.  At -11C, the engine and radiator temperature is going to drop quite quickly.

Anyone, correct me if i'm wrong, when you turn up the fan inside the car, the heat is being drawn from the cooling system (radiator) to heat the inside of the car, unless you have auxiliary heater.  Therefore, the engine coolant temperature is going to drop slightly quicker.

If you have stop/start, the engine isn't producing any heat when stopped at traffic, so temperature is going to fall quicker.

Was your A4 a petrol or diesel?  Did it have stop/start?  just trying to make sure we are comparing apples with apples.

Thanks, Joe

Hi Alan,

I was going to say look in the My Audi app, but i've just checked and can't seem to find this info for my car.

I've definitely seen this before somewhere, so it must be in one of the settings in the MMI.  I'll try to check later, but i've definitely seen it somewhere, at least it may say last 30 days or something like that.

Thanks, Joe

2 hours ago, geetee61 said:

Rear offside is borderline and 2 fronts wearing on insides

Hi Gaz, just to add my two pence worth.  Coming up to winter, better to have good tread on those tyres, if you drive the car often.  

Thanks, Joe

Hi Lillian,

Download My Audi app and register.  Then there is a button to see your service history.

Or secondly, you can ask Audi to print off your service history.

Thanks, Joe

Hi Sarah,

If you have used the key fob to lock the car and the alarm goes off.  Then as per my suggestion, use the physical key to lock the car.  If the alarm still goes off, at least you have tried this.

Thanks,

i don't know if it is 18 faults, it is just what i see in your snapshot.  It wasn't to worry you.  7 and 9 seem to be the same sort of fault.

I don't know what other fault finders do when they find fault codes from a scan, but i would (and have) cleared all faults codes, then run the car as you would do, and then do another scan.  I there is a problem, my thought is that the code would come up again.  Not sure if that is the correct way, but anyone is happy to correct me.

Thanks Joe

5 hours ago, Saraht said:

Is there any way of locking it without alarm until Audi can do it please?

Hi, assuming you have tried using the actual key (not remote fob) to lock the car?  I thought doing that doesn't enable the alarm?  Correct me if i'm wrong anyone.

Generally, how long have you had the car?  Service history, etc.  Just wondered, as there are a number of faults from the scan?  18?

Thanks, Joe

Hi,

Might as well add my pennies worth - could be worthless.

Quick diagnoses, open the engine bay.  Do you get the whine on idle?  HOLD the engine at higher revs, does it whine?  Does it only whine on acceleration (or deceleration)?  All of this could rule out the gearbox?

Can upload an audio clip of the whine?  It might be difficult to hear / record.

Not a whine, but a squeaking noise, but when was the timing belt changed and all the ancillary parts?

How many miles on the clock?

Thanks, Joe

Hi,

This was asked before.  Click on this link.

Thanks,

Hi Stu,

What are the errors?  I don't think they are related to driving in EV mode the majority of the time.

I did a 12V battery voltage test a while ago, which you can do yourself to confirm.  Unlocked my car and opened the drivers side door and bonnet.  Put multimeter on the +ve and -ve.  Initially the voltage was around 13.3V (remember with the car ignition off), but then after about 5-10 minutes the voltage dropped to 12.3V after the auto 'power down' when the lights and everything switch off automatically when you first unlock the car or open the door.  Turn on the ignition (EV mode), and the voltage jumped straight up to 13.3V.

Somehow (don't know the specifics), the HV battery is charging the 12V battery.  From my understanding, full EV's still use 12V electrics, so i'm guessing it is the same technology.

Thanks, Joe