JMKC82

I have a ring lug/ferrule on mine, which i already had at home.  But to be honest you don't need it.  2 washers and wrap the earth wire around the bolt will do.  Of course a ring lug would be better.  It is important to get a good earth!!

Look in the manual for the fuse box details, or here.  https://fuse-box.info/audi

Easiest way to test (which is what i did), is locate the correct fuse SIZE you will be doubling up, and put a multi meter on it (minimum 14Vdc setting) and EARTH.  With ignition off, check the fuses that have 0V (as this is what i would recommend).    Switch on the ignition (you don't have to start the car) to see if you have 12V+, and then switch off ignition and the power should return to 0V.  Trial and error, but easy to do.

Thanks, Joe

Hi Zaf,

I saw you hid the number plate on the first few pictures, but then a couple at the end shows your number plate??

Nice car!

Joe

Hi,

I'm not sure if you need to turn off the power completely?  I didn't, and just plugged the hard wired fuse connector into the fuse box.  It is only 12Vdc.  Caveat, this is just me, and i take no responsibility for electrocuting yourself.

As a side note, i recommend a branded hard wire system.  I've tried a cheap hard wired system from eBay, and the electrical noise has affected the radio.  I'm currently using Nextbase hardwired system.

Second note, if memory serves, the majority of internal power switches off after a certain time you switch off the ignition or unlock the car (open the door or doors that you are going to access, as if you keep opening and closing the doors it will repower the internals of the car).

Thanks, Joe

Hi Thomas,

I was just looking at a different set of alloys that had been powder coated, and decided to have a quick google of yours.

Powder coated black.  Looks nice.

Thanks, Joe

Hi Steve,

you've mentioned the steering column, but how does the brake pedal feel?

From my experience, when the ABS kicks in, the brake pedal judders really hard, not the steering wheel / column.  I could be wrong??

Thanks, Joe

My car is older than yours and it is a PHEV, but i also have virtual cockpit, so maybe a little different.  My screen is slightly different to yours.

Is there a button on the steering wheel to give you detailed view (mine does)?  You can then scroll towards the fuel tab and see if there is additional info?

Secondly, scroll up (for me) or down to see detailed view of the fuel guage - again, mine is different, as i see detailed distance view for petrol and electric.

Maybe it is a warning you are lowish on fuel?  Last 1/4 tank?

Hi,

I have the 55 tfsi-e, and for ME it is great.

I would recommend you actually test drive a few of these, as it is a matter of preference on 'driving experience', and power.

Don't only look at the power and torque figures.  My car has about 360ps, but because of the heavy batteries, the power to weight ratio is ok (not great).  But still rapid.  Plus just did a round trip of 300miles over this weekend with mainly motorway driving and into London, and on a single battery charge, and got 34mpg from the trip computer.

Thanks, Joe

Hi Hugh,

Do you have a picture?  Curious.

Virtual cockpit?

Thanks, Joe

Hi,

Not sure if i understand you, but you need a spigot ring?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295491898877?hash=item44ccb08dfd:g:fwwAAOSw1S1j0sg~&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8ButEU%2BkbTQY0edF81mH1%2FDWu0xGUt%2BZ9vx4vZ8086AiKK8bmagE9z7PAtky9fXXcPclrISNdN6SRnKW87wNy3vmQmhu4zSc41%2B2VfsHaf2AF2jrfn4%2BuNs9iVhtPIIG97QL9OVPv5FLoFs8I3jOXb0iu08jqCIeCgY4jogRArfmvmT9tFrGRithYbayYaawSli7ihT%2FxZxk9FiCS2Xr9zPOmfMn%2BO4eOOQNvt%2BauaKWkMyTxL9DA0wFtA%2FB%2F3Q8SPD7%2FObDnMCBPXg0gr3yTOztB%2Fo1Vi5z%2BDOxiyGu1w92hd0KyLc7HTfihn7J8GTB9g%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zz-cKxYg

Joe

Hi Lance,

Some systems might have a maximum capacity limit.

But try formatting the SD card in one of the other formats, NTFS or FAT(better for older systems i find).

Thanks

Thanks for the feedback Gareth.

I was just enquiring about this with the garage (not main dealer, but VW Audi specialists), as i normally change the timing 'belt' every 60-70k (i've had an expensive snap in the past).  I'll re look at this at 100k.

Mines a Plug in hybrid, so doesn't have stop/start.  But i'm guessing as a PHEV it will also put extra strain on the chains and belts everytime the engine 'restarts'.

Yep, i do about 15k a year, but i might as well keep to the oil change every 10k, as i like to keep the car in good condition.

Thanks again,

Joe

Hi all,

I've just passed 42,500 miles on my car, and whilst having it serviced, I enquired about when i should change the timing belt.

I was corrected and told that the engine has a timing chain, and it doesn't need to be replaced.  Is this true?  I checked on the myAudi app, and the additional servicing section, and it doesn't state anything regarding to the timing chain.

I've always had cars with timing belts, so this is new to me.  I also couldn't see the chain from inside the engine bay, so it is hidden or built inside the engine?

Looking on the forums and asking around, there are lots of different views.

Comments and suggestions welcome.  Should i change, and when?  I do have my car serviced regularly and the engine oil changed every 10k or so (although the garage did say i could change to the long life 20k service regime which i might go for??).

Thanks in advance.

Joe

Hi Matthew,

My Q5 has wired AA installed, and I DID use Carsifi USB module to make it wireless.  Works well.

But i reverted back to wired, because the Carsifi module uses wireless (bluetooth or wifi, of course) for the connection, and this drained my phone battery so i would have a low battery at the end of my journey.  I did once put the phone onto the wireless charging pad whilst driving, but the phone got quite warm.

Anyway, i've just reverted back to wired AA.

There are other wireless AA modules out there that do the same thing.

Joe

Hi Mark,

I can only comment on my Q5 55, 2.0 tfsi e.

This year alone i've done about half a dozen 350 mile trips.  A couple of trips i've put it in battery hold only and it has been perfectly fine.  You do feel like you are missing the electric motor at time.

When you do put it in hybrid, without any traffic and you are always above 50mph, I just run out of battery power.  Depends how aggressive your right foot is.

In hybrid, if you hit traffic or road works..... and are trundling along, yes, you will be using electric motor alone, so you might get to your destination without any battery charge.

So, it really depends on traffic conditions.

But all in all, no issues running the petrol engine on its own, even with such a heavy car.

Joe

I use aftermarket Pocket GPS World on the MMI, sorry I can't help with the set up.

But the majority of time i use Waze through Android Auto which has camera locations and alerts.

16 hours ago, Traquair said:

in sub zero temperatures the car ‘lags’ when pulling away in EV then immediately starts the petrol engine.

I hate to say, but pretty normal.  Battery isn't great in the cold, so needs more petrol engine to assist the electric motor.  Plus, you've probably got the heated seats on and 'heater' going as well.  All draining the battery.

Should clarify, there is no problem with the boot working.

It was just the other day when it was really windy, and the wind was pushing against the closing boot, and it wasn't able to close on its own.

Probably my question is, if this happens again, is it okay to pull down the boot manually?  Or is there a release mechanism i need to disengage first?

Thanks,

Hi All,

The other day it was very windy.  I opened the powered tailgate / boot, and it opened fine.  When i pushed the button to close, the wind just so happened to be pushing against the boot closing and it wouldn't close.  The boot beeped to say there was an obstruction / couldn't close.  I tried a second time when the wind slightly died down and the same.

The 3rd time, i pushed the button, i had to give the boot a helping hand, manually.  I hope i didn't damage anything.

I'm probably lazy and should look in the manual, but was just wondering if i could manually pull down the boot without having to pull some sort of release mechanism.....

Thanks for any feedback/comments.

Joe

Hi,

A quick way to check.  In your virtual cockpit, make sure your 'rev' dial is displaying engine revs AND electric motor power.

On a quiet A road, put your car into hybrid / EV only.  Keep an eye on this dial, Drive around 30mph and you should be using the electric motor only (your engine rev will be 0).  Then accelerate as normal up to 60 mph, and when you get the clunky, see if the petrol engine has 'just' engaged.

Hi Angie,

In this situation, do you accelerate quite swiftly, or gently from standstill or slow moving?

From what you said that this happens when you've used up 'all' your battery, i think i understand what you are saying.

When there is no battery charge left, the electric motor still works at very low speed (approximately less than 5-10mph).  So when you accelerate from standstill (from traffic lights), the electric motor first gets you going up to 5-10mph, and then the petrol engine kicks in.  At this moment, yes, it can be jerky because the petrol engine is trying to 'catch up'.

It is less jerky when you do have battery charge because you are travelling at a higher speed before the petrol engine kicks in, but it still jerks a little.

Maybe this is it?  Not quite a splutter.

On a slight diversion (sorry for that), maybe someone may know.  As above, when the car does transition between electric motor to petrol engine, is this like a 'push start' to start the petrol engine rather than the starter motor engaging?  This is what i think it is, hence the jerkiness.

Thanks,

Hi Stuart,

I believe the car takes the average from your last drive.  That's how i understand mine.  It will go up and down depending on how you drive and the conditions, just like normal mpg.

Depending on your model (mines 55), i got around 25 miles in the warmer weather even with a/c on eco, and driving around 70mph, and about 18 miles currently in this colder weather.  It went down to 15 miles last winter.  The heating really zaps the power.  Pre-heat the car when plugged in if you can, it helps.

Joe

Hi All,

I've had quite a few cars in the past, A3, A4's, and a few golfs.  Currently driving a Q5 PHEV quattro.

My tyres are Pirelli Scorpion Verde on 20" rims, currently with just over 3mm tread all round, and all pressures correct for a single person.  I have to say that the wear seems to be more on the outside of the tyres more than the inside (slightly +1.5mm and it is not too obvious), so i am having the tracking done soon.  But to reiterate, the tread is more than 3mm throughout the width.

I do a lot of my driving on dual carriageways and motorways, and I've found that the car is very skittish in wet weather, and over puddles it 'pulls' a lot.  I definitely would NOT say any aquaplaning.  This Q5 pulls over puddles a lot more than my previous cars, and vans i've driven in the past.  My previous cars seem to drive over puddles 'at speed' (60+mph) without me noticing too much.

Any ideas if this is normal?  Because this is a bigger car, bigger rims, wider tyres, a lot heavier (over 2000kg because it is PHEV)?  Or because my tyres are rubbish, and tread is starting to get low (I see that people do recommend to change tyres at around 3mm, although legal is 1.6mm)?

Would be nice to hear what you think.

Thanks, Joe

Hi Derek,

I had the Osram +200% bulbs on my previous VW Scirocco.  Great bulbs, and excellent upgrade in my opinion.  BUT they failed quite often (can't give you a timeline), and not sure if it was the car or bulbs.  And because they are pricy it was annoying.

Thanks,

Hi,

When was the last service?  Engine oil okay, and correct grade?