JMKC82

Hi Alan, I was going to say look in the My Audi app, but i've just checked and can't seem to find this info for my car. I've definitely seen this before somewhere, so it must be in one of the settings in the MMI. I'll try to check later, but i've definitely seen it somewhere, at least it may say last 30 days or something like that. Thanks, Joe

Hi Gaz, just to add my two pence worth. Coming up to winter, better to have good tread on those tyres, if you drive the car often. Thanks, Joe

Hi Lillian, Download My Audi app and register. Then there is a button to see your service history. Or secondly, you can ask Audi to print off your service history. Thanks, Joe

Hi Sarah, If you have used the key fob to lock the car and the alarm goes off. Then as per my suggestion, use the physical key to lock the car. If the alarm still goes off, at least you have tried this. Thanks,

i don't know if it is 18 faults, it is just what i see in your snapshot. It wasn't to worry you. 7 and 9 seem to be the same sort of fault. I don't know what other fault finders do when they find fault codes from a scan, but i would (and have) cleared all faults codes, then run the car as you would do, and then do another scan. I there is a problem, my thought is that the code would come up again. Not sure if that is the correct way, but anyone is happy to correct me. Thanks Joe

Hi, assuming you have tried using the actual key (not remote fob) to lock the car? I thought doing that doesn't enable the alarm? Correct me if i'm wrong anyone. Generally, how long have you had the car? Service history, etc. Just wondered, as there are a number of faults from the scan? 18? Thanks, Joe

Hi, Might as well add my pennies worth - could be worthless. Quick diagnoses, open the engine bay. Do you get the whine on idle? HOLD the engine at higher revs, does it whine? Does it only whine on acceleration (or deceleration)? All of this could rule out the gearbox? Can upload an audio clip of the whine? It might be difficult to hear / record. Not a whine, but a squeaking noise, but when was the timing belt changed and all the ancillary parts? How many miles on the clock? Thanks, Joe

Hi, This was asked before. Click on this link. Thanks,

Hi Stu, What are the errors? I don't think they are related to driving in EV mode the majority of the time. I did a 12V battery voltage test a while ago, which you can do yourself to confirm. Unlocked my car and opened the drivers side door and bonnet. Put multimeter on the +ve and -ve. Initially the voltage was around 13.3V (remember with the car ignition off), but then after about 5-10 minutes the voltage dropped to 12.3V after the auto 'power down' when the lights and everything switch off automatically when you first unlock the car or open the door. Turn on the ignition (EV mode), and the voltage jumped straight up to 13.3V. Somehow (don't know the specifics), the HV battery is charging the 12V battery. From my understanding, full EV's still use 12V electrics, so i'm guessing it is the same technology. Thanks, Joe

Hi Phil, Choosing the correct replacement turbo is difficult. If you can get the 3L turbo fitted (inlet and exhaust port fittings i'm guessing will be different) as well as overall size, i'd think you'd have to constantly rev hard to generated boost. Your 2L engine might not produce enough exhaust gas, and then you'll get huge turbo lag as you change gears. Unless you are racing it and maxing out on revs all the time. I might be talking bull so feel free to correct me. I looked into changing turbo's over a decade over, so things might have changed. I looked at variable vane / VNT / VGT, but i'm not sure what a hybrid turbo is. definitely a variable 'type' turbo would be my choice, as it would keep my car drivable day to day. So i didn't change my turbo decades ago due to the costs, but i did change the FMIC to a performance one, and looking online now, they are still quite reasonable in price with very little or no modifications. Thanks, Joe

Hi Neil, I assume you haven't got the timer set on either the car or the charger itself? Thanks, Joe

another name for stickers. You see them on vans, cars, lorries that advertise for companies. Not forgetting TAXI's. Also, sports cars, F1 cars, etc. And push bikes / motorbikes, etc. So, you can have any design, any colour, for any car you want. If you decide to do something with your car, post some pictures when you are finished.

Hi Joe, that would just be DECALS. And you can custom them to what you want with design and colours, etc. Thanks, also Joe

Hi Rob, We'll always ask why you want to upgrade to drilled and slots. Depends on your driving style and car, etc. So i have a Q5 PHEV and with the batteries it is a heavy car. So i decided to go for Brembo drilled and slots as i like a better braking performance. But i will tell you I eat through brake pads quickly, i've been told it is because of the slots 'cutting' or 'slicing' through the brake pad. If i could turn back time and definitely 100% next time, i'd probably go for drilled only with the same brand pads, or standard discs with EBC pads. I've used EBC pads on my previous golf, A3, and my last A4, and they were awesome on their own - RED or YELLOW stuff! Drilled and slots discs do look good though 😄 Thanks, Joe

Hi Paul, 2 litres in 3 weeks is a lot of coolant, and what do you mean burnt up? In the cylinders? That would not be possible (in my opinion). My trouble shooting suggestion (with extra care of course), is to top up the coolant when the engine is cold. Get the engine up to temperature (90degrees) with the bonnet open. Because the coolant system is under pressure and at temperature, you should be able to see 'leaks' or 'steam'. You may want a second person to rev the engine as the water pump If you have an undertray, possibly remove that, as that could be catching the coolant? Again, be careful. Thanks, Joe