Chalky13

1 minute ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi unfortunately if you don't quote the post that you want a reply to it won't come up as a flag on any of the posters email so they won't know that you required an answer to their post, I have been on here most evenings at some point but in the absence of a request for a further answer you just don't know.

Steve.

I wasn’t aware of that Steve. I did ask about coding the battery though earlier. 
thanks 

I’ll be taking the car to a local garage next week, seems that there’s no-one on the site here most days for advice.

thanks for the advice though

How do I code the battery? Isn’t it just a plug in and sorted ? 

3 hours ago, Magnet said:

What did you check the battery with Dave? 
With the engine running you should get >14 v. Sounds like you need to investigate alternator issue. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Hi Gareth, I’ve just checked the system again and the battery shows 13.8 when the engine is running. Would you say the alternator is needed, I’ve managed to track one down for stop start, as they appear rare as rockIng horse !Removed! at the moment! 

I checked it with a car battery checker, clipped on both 

I’ve fitted the battery this morning, no difference to fault lights on, headlamp distance error, stop/start not working and stabilisation error, plus flashing glow plus.

The tester can check the alternator, just need to find it and how to do that I guess.

thanks Gareth, appreciate the pointer, that’s a huge help. 

I’ve bought a new battery and fitting that today, hopefully that will resolve some of the issues.

I suspect the EGR valve also needs replacing as the car is becoming more limp ish 

And checked it when running, it’s fluctuating between 11.98 and 12! 

Hi Steve, the reading for the battery is 12.61 volts 

Hi Steve. Still not got to the garage due to work commitments and closed today.

Ive plugged my VD500 in again and this code popped up, P0401 which suggest EGR valve. I presume that would trigger the glow plug light and EML, plus make the car restricted as there is no turbo now.

From speaking to other diesel users at work, seems to be the issue of the moment as several have their EGR valves down too. Is there maintenance to do, IE long runs or giving it a blast, or is it just something that needs changing?

thanks again, in advance 

Hi Steve, I haven’t. With the slightly slower cold start and no stop start working, that makes sense. 
Could that relate to the headlight and stabilisation lights too?

I will get the battery tested ASAP, thank you ever so much for that 👍

Nothing at all? Thanks

Not making a great deal of headway in my searches, if anyone has some pointers, it’d be much appreciated .

thanks 

Hi all, 

Our A1 threw up some fault lights last week, with the headlight distance adjustment error and stability control lights coming on. Within seconds the glow plug light started flashing and then the EML came on.

I did an initial online search and it seemed to be a sensor on the lower arm maybe that caused the lights and stability issue. I’ve not been able to find the search again since.

Further research says tyre pressure and several other things.

I’ve had the fault codes read and it’s come up with these

P0641
P064100
P15A000
P181C00
U100800
U111100
U111300

Would anyone have a suggestion before I end up throwing money at this I could do with not spending? 
The car drives fine but seems to have the turbo restricted as the oomph is missing

I’m planning on getting the glow plugs done as they’ve pinged the lights on before anyway potentially, and when starting the car it takes an extra few seconds to start to what it did when we got it a year or so ago

Got the car back, the guy suggested another £100 to investigate the light being on as it showed fault codes that suggested links to the new turbo, so hopefully just historical.

Cars driving straight, all good. Thanks for the advice to get it check rather than just changing glow plugs 

Diagnostic run, showed up 4 issues which the guy said related to the turbo and EGR valve. However, as both were replaced last year around 6000 miles ago, he said it’s probably because they haven’t been readapted, so he’s doing that for us. Found that the NSF track rod end was rubbing on full lock on the wheel, and he said whoever replaced it before we got it, fitted the OSF on it and it’s not shaped correctly 🙄

Anyway with all that and tracking, just shy of £250 inc the dreaded! 

Thanks Steve, I’m taking it to an Audi specialist Thursday to see what comes up. Hopefully nothing serious. She said it was a bit harder to start this morning than normal, and it was colder and more damp than usual here. Light didn’t come on on the way home which is something. 

She did say Saturday that there’d been a bit of smoke out the back when she put her foot down last week a couple of times. 
Turbo was replaced last year before we got it, receipts etc confirm

Morning, this came on today on my wife’s way to work. 

I’m presuming it’s just a case of new glow plugs? 
The handbook says it’s preheating, so doesn’t sound too major hopefully?

Yeah, wasn’t sure if it was that or a wire tapping against things. Nice cheap fix, we like those …

Star man Steve, popped the trim off, nothing really obvious loose, test drive, all quiet, trim back on, still quiet! 👍

happy with that, as that was the only rattle in the car 

Perfect thank you 

I’m aware of that, I’m asking if there’s anything related to the trim area I need to be mindful of when removing it, if it’s clipped in or there’s anything behind or a special way of removing it.

Any pointers please?

Apologies if this is in the wrong section.

Our A1 has an annoying rattle from the headlining around the interior light unit. Pressing anywhere on the plastic there stops it, so we know it’s that now.

Is this common or anything there we should be mindful of before taking the trim out and seeing what’s loose / rattling? 
thanks 

First chance to give the car a good clean today 👍