Pappa583

On 10/1/2022 at 6:48 PM, Stevey Y said:

Hi there is video for the light unit removal on you tube, just plumb in Audi Q7 matrix headlight removal its a 2017 model so it can't be that different as they only fitted these to 2016 up models the one I worked on was a 2015 with HID FISH EYE lenses.

Steve.

Watched that video on utube and the one bit i wanted to see is where he skips...... shows you him undoing the 2 bolts and pulling the light forward an inch before the video jumping past where he manages to get the light past the plastic bit you can just see.... ive screenshot the video which shows the fixing point of the light sitting on top of the plastic I can't get past..... either that or I'm too scared to smash the light altogether..... I have pulled the corner pretty hard to get it out but seems like I'm using alot of force to get it out and might struggle to linenit up and get it back in??

 Had another go yesterday and no way was that light coming out by just removing the 2 bolts. I even removed the cover accross the top of the grille to see what's below, only came out so far and hit a solid bit plastic which I couldnt see how i could remove it. But..... I did find the cause of the moisture ingress, no idea how but the light was cracked pretty badly on the inside edge, sort of behind the side of the grille....  No idea how this could be cracked, no damage on the front of the light lense and no signs of any damage on the grille, bumper, underside covers or any other plastics etc. Almost like someone has shoved something inbetween the side of the grille and the corner of the light and forced it over.....

i have Managed to get the light out just far enough to get the silcone nozzle in and seal the crack with plenty of  black silicone. Seems to be ok so far 🤞

18 hours ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi the only way to get to the back covers is remove the headlight assembly, remove silly trim panel over the light which is held on with a twist clip, remove the two screws that secure the unit, pull out light so you can remove wiring connector and remove the unit, the ballasts are attached to the rear covers which need to be unscrewed  and pulled away from the connectors, then remove the covers and get going with the hair dryer, when reassembling coat the gaskets with silicon grease and put the thing back together.

Steve.

Hi Steve,

Tried yesterday, silicone at the ready, undone the 2 bolts but light wouldn't come out as the right inner corner was clashing with another bit plastic which stopped it coming forward,  and just didn't seem to have any movement in it? Only had half an hour spare before coming away for few days so will have another go tomorrow when I get back 👍

Cheers paul

Been away working for a few week's and car has just sat unused in all the crappy weather. When I got in it to drive home noticed a bit of condensation on headlight lense but tbh with the 5 hour drive ahead just wanted home.

Absolutely lashed down with rain for mist of the drive home and yesterday when I got up I noticed it had misted quite alot inside.

I've checked it and no cracks or anything obvious. Was gonna try and get a cover off the back and get the hairdryer in to dry out? Anyone know of any breathers or seals to check? Is this a comman issue and easy fix as don't fancy having to buy a new headlight if this moisture causes it to fail £££ 🤔 😳 

Bit of an update to the post earlier. Been out and tried to see where I can get into the light to dry it out.... managed to get rid of it by just using the old hairdryer but just slowly heating it up from outside as I can't see how it's easily removed? Anyway cleared up but 20mins layer it seems to be misting up again 😱

Cheers paul

42 minutes ago, Magnet said:

Many thanks Paul,

I still think you are being unnecessarily premature in getting the gearbox and differential fluids renewed on a 6 year old, sub 40K vehicle, and I stand by the principal of the earlier post where I would have thought 75K ( or say 8 years) would have been more acceptable. 
However, I would welcome additional views from other forum members. 
Having said that Paul, it’s your money, and you must do with it what you may. 
Costings? For gearbox change, I thought around £400 was about the ball park, but things have increased in price - but to £600? 
Again, others may have more up to date experience to go with. 
If this were mine, I would be more inclined to follow the wishbone replacement requirement/not yet required as my priority.

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Hi Gareth 

I agree, To be honest I have been swaying to the same conclusion. Wishbone check tomorrow when I get my wheels off and tryes balanced gonna have a good look and foe the gear train service, as you say I was also expecting a few views  from a few experienced forum members giving their thoughts and advice maybe even experiences? 

It's not that I have spare money to waste, just realise prevention is better than cure and certainly cheaper in long run..... but don't want to just do it for the sake of it if its not needed.

Maybe another 10k before i spend it 😊 

thanks again

paul

52 minutes ago, Magnet said:

Hello Paul,

To get straight to the point- what exactly is now going to cost you £900 - the gearbox service, plus a normal service, and renewing the wishbones?? Or just the gearbox service?.

Has some independent experienced person inspected the wishbones yet, and declared them to require attention in the immediate future? 
Apologies, but I’m a bit lost with this thread.

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

 

Hi Gareth

Not had the wishbones checked yet, I'm away working offshore so just trying to get info and prices for the gearbox and diffs really. And also a general feel for whats really required from a drivetrain maintenance point of view as I don't just want to pay for something that isn't needed for another 10k or 20k miles? Have been reading the gearbix isnt needed and are pretty bullet proof, maybe get the diffs done only? Engine service has been done a few months ago which is where the original wishbone issue came about, the vag independent garage told me they suggested the wishbones be changed (they called them banana bushings which I'd never heard of before). Ends up the part they refer to is the lower control/wishbone. But they are still to be checked.

Back to the gearbox and diffs, emailed a local highly rated gearbox specialist and this is the reply

full driveline service for your vehicle, which includes an 8HP65 Automatic gearbox service and oil changes to the front diff, transfer box and rear diff for £799+VAT (£958.80 inc VAT). For just a gearbox service we charge £499+VAT (£598.80 inc VAT). All parts used are ZF OEM

Above includes the replacement of the gearbox pan so full change/service not just an oil flush. 

cheers Paul 

On 9/24/2022 at 12:05 PM, Magnet said:

Hello again Paul,

Yes, I would certainly have the wishbone bushes checked by another garage at some point in the near future. Has it been through an MOT since you bought it, or will it need to be MOT’d in the next 6 months? This may give you reassurance/ second opinion. 
Auto boxes and oil changes? Forget my comments on manual boxes! 
Auto gearbox oil changes are recommended although not necessarily specified, but I would have thought that 40k would be rather premature - perhaps 75 K, but there may be sounder opinion to follow on here. Age can also be a factor, but again I don’t think it would bother me at  this stage. Diff. Oil - same.

In effect Paul:- get a second opinion on the serviceability of the wishbones.

Only do your homework on the gearbox and diff. at this stage, advance of having to do something in say the next couple of years. Gearbox oil and filter change estimate sounds reasonable, but ‘part change’?? - sounds odd. 
Just give everything a good coat of thinking about, but not spending on at this stage! 
Good luck and kind regards,

Gareth. 

Hi Gareth, 

I've found a specialist gearbox eng company and apart from being around for 60 odd years they have brilliant reviews and speaking to them gives more confidence on they know what their talking about.  No partial gearbox oil change, full 9 litres changed, gearbox oil pan off fitting new pan, gasket and full service, transfer box and both front and rear diff. Fully serviced drive train package but more work costs more..... about £900 for everything They did recommend a service at around 40k miles, but did say could get away with just the gearbox. May aswell get it all done if I decided to pay.....

Wishbones definatly getting second check.... 

1 hour ago, Magnet said:

Hello Paul

Wishbone ‘started to part’ on a 2016 model? ‘…..so I’m told….’.

Personally, I would want a second opinion on this from an independent source, or a thorough personal inspection, before renewing these wishbones at this time. A caveat maybe if the vehicle has covered a higher than average mileage, or has been used under rougher than normal terrain for the model. 
If indeed they need changing, I would go with a good aftermarket brand, such as Lemforder, bought at most competitive price from sellers on EBay etc. 
Gearbox oil? Strangely, I had thoughts yesterday that I should be considering changing the oil on our 168K, 16 year old A3! Car has been owned from new, and it’s never been changed to date. Not sure if that helps. Caveat - yours is also manual -? If auto, worth factoring this in within the next couple of years. 
Differential? Pardon my ignorance, but Haldex system? If so, could be worth considering. Search for a trusted transmission specialist and talk with them. 
Once the vehicle is out of warranty, all things maintenance is not Audi dealer or even an independent, but a trusted local knowledgeable source. 
Hope some of this help.

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Excellent advice, cheers. The wishbones have been hanging round my thoughts since I had it serviced at the vag independent shortly after buying. Did find it shocking that not even 40k miles and such an expensive maybe unnecessary repair was suggested. Gearbox and diff definatly need to seek specialist advice. 8 speed auto box changes with no issues and probably spending money that I don't need to so gonna do some further investigation.

Getting a price from a few garages to change lower wishbones as he bush has started to part? So im told by garage..... also told audi genuine are £350 ish per side just for the part!!  Got a price from vag specialist who is bound to be cheaper than audi dealer but still £775 for both sides.....

Anyway phoned audi dealer and requested a price to make me feel like I was getting a bargain but also asked for price to do diff oils and gearbox oil which other garage has priced for. Gearbox they say would just be a 4 ltrs out and 4 ltrs in so not quite a full pan off and total change £300+, maybe better than not changing any?  Diffs quoted £190 for oil change, I thought maybe pricey for whats involved tbh.... might do diffs myself. Gearbox not so keen to do as I read about the valve and getting to temperature to allow accurate measurement of filling etc etc.....

Suprised when audi dealer came back and said at 39k miles not to do either oils as they are "sealed for life"? Still awaiting audi price for wishbones.....

It's a 2016 so not sure if the gearboxes have different specs as I know pre 2015 seems a few vids on changing these pans out. Even vag independent said only of there had been an issue identified and leaking oil would they drop it off.....

24 minutes ago, Steve Q said:

The s tronic gearbox is one of the best out there 🙂 you could always get a diagnostic check for peace of mind 🙂

 Have recently done the rear brakes  which i bought a little handheld vag device to wind piston in, also reads codes and doesnt show any faults.... unless needs more advanced interogation? I'm gonna get the gearbox serviced soon anyway,  couple thousand mile till it hits 40k, and get the diffs oil changed while it's getting done. 

Haven't yet decided whether it's a job for me on my back, on my drivevwith Jack's and axle stands or I get it done at a garage..... called one garage who wouldn't take the gearbox on?💰💰 Their vag mechanic had recently left so they can't do it?? Or didn't want to do it.... I read the guide on here which seems straightforward enough just hope the weather's ok 😎

7 minutes ago, Steve Q said:

I think this is a standard thing from.wvat I've seen on.otber Audi models. I think it partly depends on how much acceleration is applied from standstill. 

That's good to know mate, cheers.... was hoping it was something simple and dreading it bring the start of something serious going wrong 😱🤣.

Not used to the automatic box, always had manuals. 🙄

2016 q7  speed auto

Anyone else noticed an issue with their auto gearbox changing itself from D to S. Occasionally I've noticed it changed to sport although I didn't change it, only happened a few times and only seems to do it from pulling away, not when im moving and already in 3rd 4th gear etc. Prob a simple explanation and could understand if in auto driving mode but it's in comfort drive mode?

On 12/14/2020 at 5:03 PM, neil-w said:

Just thought I would update my post as no one really had the answer to my question. I did the gearbox oil change today on my 2016 Q7 4M on 80k miles. While it was messy and fiddly I did it on my drive without too many issues in 3 hours.

Anyone thinking of doing this here are some notes:

The gearbox is a ZF 8 Speed and you need to order the ZF kit which contains 7 Litres of oil, the sump tray (which contains the oil filter and magnets), fill plug and bolts. I ordered mine from Autodoc for £189 and it arrived in a few days.

You'll need some diagnostic equipment so you can read the gearbox oil temperature.

• Lift car on ramps/axle stands so it remains level

• Remove underbody shield

• Undo fill plug (10mm Allen Key)

• Remove Drain plug and drain oil

• Support the rear of the geabox

• Remove geabox rear support bracket

• Remove pan cover screws

• Lubricate new sealing ring

• Clean the gearbox mating surface

• Install new pan using cris cross method

• Reinstall gearbox rear mount

• Fill gearbox until oil flows back out

• Start the engine

• Maintain 2000rpm for 20 seconds to fill the torque converter

• Change manually into reverse and hold for 10 seconds then into first and hold for 10 seconds

• Check transmission fluid temperate is between 30c and 40c

• Now top up fluid with engine running until it fluid runs out again

• When fluid coming out is down to a few drops reinstall fill plug and tighten to 35Nm

• Reinstall under body tray
  
  I hope this helps someone.

Excellent pointers on what to do cheers, Do you fancy doing mine 😜. Mines only got 36k on it, was thinking once it gets 40k might be worth doing to keep everything fresh, diff oil aswell...

Bought a little hand held obd reader and worked as described. £40 on eBay, plugged it in rewound the ehb motor, pushed back the piston and changed the pads no problem. Easier than I thought...

On 8/26/2022 at 7:49 PM, Steve Q said:

.

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10 hours ago, RoyC said:

Don't forget to hook up your charger before doing your brakes.

👍 I did remember reading that mate, will be a few weeks yet till I do it as I'm away to work again so hopefully I remember 🤣

17 hours ago, RoyC said:

Let us know how it goes.

Seller accepted offer of £40 👍.... couple quid off

8 minutes ago, RoyC said:

ebay's got them for £43   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393180653071  

I'll get one next week.

Just made offer do see how it goes, will have one one way or other 😎

1 hour ago, RoyC said:

I found this, seems to do everything I will ever want to do.

https://www.obdadvisor.com/ancel-vd500-review/

Will pay for itself easy, rather than pay labour rate and need a garage with vag computer to wind piston in for rear pads 👍

On 5/21/2020 at 1:23 PM, Steve Q said:

That's good to know, thanks for the extra info. It appears most Audi's suffer with water traps of so e sort unfortunately.

Cheers

Steve

Know this is a few years old but is the face-lift Q7 the same design with these plugs, mines 2016 and thinking if there's the same issue maybe worth a look?

1 hour ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi if you think thats pricey have a look at VCDS that will make your eyes water, with this type of software you only get what you pay for, I have in the past bought other scan tools [very cheap] and come royally unstuck when halfway through a job when they loose the connection, case in point I thought the £140 unit I had bought for my Alfa Mito would be fine to re calibrate the power steering, WRONG!, it kept loosing communication in the middle of calibration which left me with an underivable vehicle, borrowed my mates Fiat ECU Multiscan and it flew through, I have just had a shot sharp lesson in buying too cheap which has cost me dear, old formula, if you buy a cheap item which fails to do what you want, you have lost both the item and the money, if you upgrade and the item does exactly what you want it to is all you loose is the extra money.

Steve.

 

Understand, like all things you get what you pay and I'm more than prepared to pay if its needed but have looked at quite a few from a few hundred to a pretty reasonable 50 quid (obvs if it works) but for the average Joe who wants to read the odd error code and change rear brake pads once or twice thinking could be a bit of a waste to pay more than that's needed.... Just wondered if anyone had bought one of the cheaper ones and used with success 🤞 hopefully 😉 

Just had my audi app connected today at audi dealers so can see the bigger menu in the app and on the mmi. Struggling to get the wi fi audio player to connect though as my audi app finds the correct WiFi ssid but when I put the password into the phone app as its details in the audi mmi car screen it just says Incorrect password. Tried a few times, audi app still connected and working fine but won't accept the password?

Anyone had similar issues

Looking to buy a cheapish... obd tool, just to allow me to change the rear pads but looking to get one that will be half decent for reading any codes that may pop up in future?

Anyone bought a decent one for a decent price that's done the job OK? Amazon have a few around £50-60 which seem to do what's needed for pad change and code reading but thought I'd reach out to the forum members before I possibly waste the money on a cheap one.

ANCEL VD500 Pro OBD2 Reader for Volkswagen VW Audi Skoda Seat Vehicle - Car Diagnostic Tool Check Engine Light EPB ABS SRS Fault Code Reader Oil Throttle Position Adaption Service Due Reset Tool https://amzn.eu/d/eouzhlG

Wondering if anyone has changed their rear pads? Any tips and how do you overcome the electronic handbrake. Once off is it just a case of normal winding the piston back in?

Just changed front discs and pads last month and thought I had an issue with the wear sensor on the front after id just changed them.... But on checking the rear pads today when ive washed and cleaned it they do look more worn the  I'd realised and must be that's what's bringing the warning on dash, although it comes on, stays on then next time is started it it wasn't there.... even so that's the next job..... 😬

Had the car checked by another mechanic friend of mine and these were not identified as having any issues? How would that now affect the warrenty if there was to be an issue arrise and the warrenty company contacted the last place it was serviced.

To the warrenty company looks like I've left the car with an outstanding issue that didn't actually exist?

Or just wait till next mot due in January to see it gets a clean bill of health with no advisories?