Rust81

Hi - I went for an INA pump and got from Partsinmotion via eBay.

Hi, I have a 2014 Avant and suspect I have a break in the wiring harness somewhere as one of the rear lights in the tailgate is not working. I’ve checked the bulb and switched the carrier over from the other side, so it’s definitely wiring. Has anyone got any tips on how to remove the Avant hinge trims to access the harness?

Thanks Gareth. Something mid range probably via eBay as I’ll probably only keep the car another 6-12 months. I’ve bought from Parts In Motion previously and they seemed reasonable. Will check out LLL parts. Thanks

Hi - looking to replace my front discs and pads and see there are two different sizes when I search online. I have a 2014 B8.5 1.8 TFSI Avant with the CVT box. Any ideas where I can find part numbers or which discs and pads I need please? Thanks

Hi, thought I would provide an update. So I replaced the water pump and decided to replace the expansion bottle whilst I was there as it had to come out anyway to carry out the repair. It’s much easier to see the coolant level now as the bottle is new and not stained. So it’s been two weeks since I replaced the pump and so far so good. No error codes being thrown and the car is taking c.5 mins to get up to temp which is a bit longer than before. So I suspect the issue was with the thermo unit rather than the pump.

Hi, I have a 2014 Audi A4 B8.5 Avant 1.8TFSI and looking to replace the front discs and pads shortly. Any recommendations on manufacturers or ones to avoid? Thanks

A few new screenshots from this evening. EML came on so turned car off and restarted. Readings were near the end of a c.5 mile journey. Temp gauge in the car steady at 90 degrees throughout. Last screenshot shows a slight increase in temp but not reflected on the dashboard gauge.

This was after a trip to the supermarket. So 1 mile there, 10 min shop and then 1 mile back. Then the code read.

Any recommendations for manufacturers/ suppliers if not going OEM? I’ve been looking at Febi or Meyle. The car threw the error again today. After restarting and driving the 1 mile journey home I kept the car running and did a scan. Do these temps look normal to you?

I think the thermostat is the logical next step and others with the 00700 error code have done the thermostat and/or water pump.

Only marginally above 90 I’d say but my wife was driving at the time and all the fans were going flat out when she arrived home after only a 5 min journey. Yes I can monitor the temp via OBD but the EML is now coming on when the car is cold and hasn’t been driven that day. I think it’s probably the thermostat as these are prone to failure on these engines. If I’m replacing the thermo then may as well do the water pump too

Hi, yes OBD can monitor temperatures. I have ordered a replacement G83 coolant temp sensor that plugs into the lower radiator hose in case it’s that and it’s an easy swap. There is one other fault but I don’t think this is causing the P00B700 - Engine Coolant Flow Low/Performance, see attached image. I also meant to mention that the car normally gets up to temperature very quickly - say within 1 mile and it stays at 90 degrees. Only when the EML comes on and it goes into limp mode and you don’t turn it off and restart does then temp rise above 90.

Hi - bumping this topic as my intermittent issue is now all the time. Having done some more online reading and bought an OBDeleven I think it is probably the water pump / thermo unit that needs replacing. The labour cost is 3-4 hours so I’m going to give this a go myself having watched a few youtube videos as it doesn’t look too complicated. Any advice where to get a replacement water pump & thermostat housing? The garage was quoting c.£450 for OEM but price ranges from £100 on eBay to £350 from GSF. Part number is 06L121111P. Any advice from the community please? Thanks

Would I be able to code myself using obdeleven? Local VAG specialist wants £100+ which is a joke and another independent reckons it doesn’t need doing.

Thanks - it’s had a new battery 6 months ago but it wasn’t coded. That said it must recognise it’s a new battery as the start/stop is now working

Are there any sensors that can be replaced or are they all part of the water pump?

Yes stays at 90. When the EML comes on, if you stop then restart, that journey also stays at 90. But on the one occasion the EML came on and we didn’t stop/re-start, it went just above 90 and fans were blowing hard. That’s what made me finally book it in. Error code is P00B700

Hi all, after some advice from the community please. I have a 2014 A4 Avant with the 1.8TFSI engine (170bhp version). For the last few months I’ve been getting an intermittent EML and car going into limp mode. It happens when the car is up to temp and the gap between the two journeys is quite short, eg within 30 minutes so that the car is still warm from before. If I turn the car off and on again the EML goes away and I have full power. I took the car to my local independent VAG specialist and they have suggested replacing the water pump & thermostat as it comes as one unit, but cost is over £1k all in. There’s no sign of coolant leaking on the pump. Obviously keen not to spend that level on a £4k car but wanted to get advice on repair & cost? Thanks

Yep you need to remove the door card and some of the trim around the window. I watched a video on you tube and replaced mine within an hour. It’s pretty easy. Just don’t rush getting the door card off or you’ll break the clips.

Hi, looking for any help and advice with an ongoing issue on my 2014 Audi A4 Avant 1.8 petrol with the CVT box. Over the past month or so the engine management light has come on 3 or 4 times and says reduced power and limited to 4000rpm. When you next start the car there’s no warning light and car drives fine. Took the car in to my local independent to get it scanned and it’s showing these codes. It’s not a coolant issue as the level is fine and rad was replaced a year ago so the garage are confused with what the issue could be. The issue seems to happen when you restart the car after only having done a short journey. Thanks for reading and any advice appreciated. Thanks.

Hi all - replying to a post I started at the end of 2023. I finally gave in and replaced the battery at the weekend as it was only a batter of time before the old one gave up with the colder weather. I bought from Tayna and got a Varta AGM that’s the exact replacement for the original that was fitted. Now all forums and posts say you need to get the battery coded so that the car knows it’s a new battery. I haven’t done this bit yet but I’ve noticed that the start/stop is now working when it hasn’t worked for the last year with the old battery. so it obviously must know that something has changed. As the battery is a direct replacement and spec as the old do I still need to get it coded; which seems as simple as changing the serial number by 1. Thanks!

Thanks for the tip re LLL parts. I used that and managed to find the same part number that Mark posted. Now I just need to find a reasonably priced mirror. In other news had a CVT gearbox service today and it drives so much better. Thanks for all the help. Russ

Hi, I have an Audi A4 b8.5 2014 model. I need to replace the power folding passenger mirror but struggling to find the right one on eBay and breakers yards. According to the build codes I need PRCode: 5SJ = Left exterior mirror: convex and PRCode: 6XK = Exterior mirrors: automatically dimming electrically foldable/adjustable/heated. Not bothered about the colour as have the existing case I can use. Does anyone know how I can translate the above codes into a part number I can find? Thanks in advance!

I suspect it’s the original battery so coming up to 10 years old. I’ve just put two new tyres and replaced the radiator so hoping I can drag out replacing the battery. Would you charge via the bonnet connections or remove it and do it that way?

Hi, I’m getting the low battery warning when starting the car for the first time each day, I suspect not helped by the recent cold weather. The message says the battery will be charged whilst driving and then doesn’t come back til the next day. I’m thinking to get a trickle charger and leave it hooked up to the charge points in the bonnet as the manual says. Has anyone had experienced the same and am I better off just getting a new battery? Thanks