Francis_G

On a hot engine I have noticed that the rev counter drops to zero for a few seconds, no longer than about 5 seconds then comes back to normal, however the engine note does not search or change from what I can hear. Has anyone else had this issue? I have changed the Detonation sensor to a Bosch as that had a cracked connector.

I found some wiring data. I broke the connector off totally and put some heat shrink over each terminal to act as 3 individual boots. Wired upto attached diagram below, and the hot start issue has now gone, now the coolant switch is talking to the ECU. I have put in the new ISV and I now have no codes being generated, for now.

Turns out the Haynes book threw me a red herring on the ACE engine the mid shaft only runs the oil pump, therefore no need to have a timing point on the cog. I found this out after rotating it with my hot wire rig setup but nothing was happening and the wires to the coil from my golf were getting hot. I even took off the distributor cap and sure enough the arm was not moving. Even I found another string on the net that has a sketch of a hole by the bell housing that should show a timing mark, however that was not moving. Then I went back to Haynes and looked up distributor where I found, I quote “ACE and AAR engines, the distributor is located on the right hand of the engine and is driven off the rear of the camshaft. After finding out my cam belt was 2 teeth out, I put all back together again, indecently the distributor cap had a mount bolt loose, that would not help. I manually cranked the engine over, no issues. Started on the button idled fine up to 60 degrees where the engine started to search again, but not as bad as before. I just instinctively unplugged the isv and she purred like a cat at just over 1k and was rock solid, plugged isv back in and the searching came back, new one on order. I turned off the car, and waited 5 minutes but she would not fire up. Back to Haynes for inspiration and eventually I found a problem that I feel is the root cause,…. The connector on the loom to Part OEM 034919369C has been wired wrongly, not only that somebody tried to correct the fault by forcing the two parts upside down and the new connector is also broken. I have found a you tube person who prints new ones as the connector is no longer available. 3-pin connector 893971974. Has anyone got a wiring diagram for the correct wires to locations they could show to me so I can get this faux pas sorted out. I feel close to getting this car running the way she should again, what an interesting day I have had.

Since I had a cambelt snap my 16V Bosch KE-Motronic injection ACE engine has been down on power and is unable to idle correctly and start with a warm engine. When my mechanic rebuilt the top end of the engine and put on the cambelt he told me that he could not see a point in the intermediate shaft sprocket, as the Haynes book has a photo of it. The car cold starts on the button, idles nicely until it gets to about 60 degrees where the engine note changes from an advance spark to one that is knocked back and at this point is stops the ability to idle. I have taken apart and serviced the TPS and that drops down to 2 ohms resistance reliably now, and I resealed it by welding the plastic casing with a hot knife. So I can now discount the TPS as a problem and the diagnostics does not flag this any longer. Since the rebuild of the top end of the engine I am getting a Crank case sensor error, even tho this model does not have such a device. Before the belt, travelling at 65 I could put my foot down and receive an instant surge of power from the 140 horses, since the rebuild it no longer surges the horses. I know from my basic golf mk2 that when I do a cambelt change, I can do a static timing check with a gunson timing gun by having the ignition on and rotating the distributor, before fireing up, then proceed with the secondary tune up with the engine running and the vacuum hose detached from the distributor. This got me thinking "how can I do a static setup with the Bosch KE-Motronic?" My thinking is as follows: Unplug the battery from the car Clamp the top camshaft sproket in place, as it is correct Clamp the lower crankshaft in place take off the cambelt get hold of a golf coil I have lying around that is good and hot wire it to the battery Connect the main ht lead to the hot-wired coil Plug in the Gunson strobe attach the hall sender of the strobe on HT1 rotate the intermediate shaft clockwise until I get a strobe flash reconnect the cambelt The KE-Motronic should them self regulate. I look forward to anything anyone else could add to this, as it is a technical experiment that I have thought up.

My bracket development should make the TPS fit

I am annoyed that I have to adapt things to make them fit, both electrically and mechanically. On the TPS that does not exist I have bought Bosch 0280122001 Throttle-Valve Switch, however to make it fit I have to fabricate a metal plate that rotates the new part about 20 degrees, then add standoffs to provide the correct vertical offset as it is not as deep into the bracket, perhaps do a jumper loom to switch wiring over, I have not checked that yet. I thought that I would do an exercise and buy a car, not Audi, more popular car based on a focus... a volvo from a cat scrap site but when I looked into it, 6 year old, guess what, same issue.... no parts. When the nasty stuff really starts to hit the fan, not many of us will have transport. Better off with something pre electronic era, mk2-1 golf with manual choke, they do not have many things that electrical items bring to us, but equally not there to go wrong, keep it simple. In the Audi 80 where is the sense of lean production engineering, when you have a support bracket between the gearbox and bottom of the engine, they have used 9 bolts and different socket heads on the bolts so you need 2 spanners to put the thing on along with a torx head. However it gets worse, as you cannot get a socket onto them when they are on the car, you actually need a deep offset ring spanner, a shallow one, an open one and a couple of different sizes of each, and to add insult to injury you need to drop the subframe to get 3 of the bolts out. People diss old landrovers but you can get a long way just with 1 spanner. I guess that inefficiency assembly gave the Japanese the chance they needed.

Every time I go out in my 80 something breaks and it has to be towed home, that something usually I am able to fix and then something else breaks. Pre pandemic this would not be a problem, post pandemic parts are expensive and have a lead time of about 10 working days. Up until now I have managed to get replacement parts but this time I have a real problem. The Throttle Position sensor has given up to open circuit, the car is sluggish to drive, putting out about 60bhp, about half power and the idle is irratic, backed up by error code 00516. The car has nice details and I do want to keep it. I believe it is the last Avant with the 16v 2.0 Ace engine on the UK roads. I have seen some second hand parts, but with it being a sealed unit, how do I know it is not going to instantly break on the next outing, as mine did, also I do not want to pay the cost of a new one for the privilege. part numbers that are on the case are: 0 280 120 426 vw 048 133 154 Does anyone know of a way to refurbish the unit? Does anyone have circuit diagrams of this unit Can anyone tell me the pinout data on the car? Any help would be appreciated. I feel that we are being punished by lack of parts supply, something to do with the WOKE establishment and the WEF objectives to get to Net zero, it is so unfair. It is not the car it is the world situation. Bump! I am upset.

I have been getting to know the underside of my engine bay lately of my B4 ACE Avant . I have been jacking, as I always have done with my mk2 golf, at the rear subframe bush. I cannot do this to remove the sump because I have to drop the subframe a bit to clear a space for the last 3 bolts to come out of the lower engine and gearbox support. Am I right in thinking that if I lower the subframe the gearbox drops down with it, so that will have to be supported from above by a cross bar and a chain. I can see one chain support on the front of the engine, but not the rear, my mk2 golf has 2! I have surveyed the underside and I think if I put the axil stand behind the rear subframe bolt onto a section that looks like it is 2 inches square, is this where I can be safe? One side has a heat shield cover, so accuracy must be high on that side. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks Francis

You quote "same model as you" the 80 wing is the same across the 80 B4 range, including saloon, ragtop and Avant to be precise part number is 8A0821106. You quote "not requiring any paintwork rectification" This is something you have said, not me. Other than that, thank you for your wishes Gareth.

I understand what you are saying, however if you do not ask you 100% will not get, but if you do, no matter how slim, you just might. On facebook and ebay I have recently responded to 5 adverts, all silver, all sold. New paint is not the same as the 30 year old paint. On a 30 year old wing or so the ageing would be more in keeping with the car and more crucially the paint would be of the same composition, therefore age with the car at a similar rate. Audi's are an exacting car, and deserve the attention to detail that a new coat of paint would not give.

Wanted B4Drivers side wing I have an Audi 80 Avant in LY7T Silver, the drivers side wing (o/s) is very rusty above the Audi badge and I think if I scrape it there will be a hole left behind. I have tried Ebay and FB but all sold, always the silver ones gone that is intact. I am in Leeds UK. Has anyone got one in this colour.

Have taken off the cover and been under the car and still cannot see where it is, I am thinking that it is a red herring and there is not one. I have even studied some photos of the engine, sitting on a forklift, can you red pen where the crankshaft position sensor is?

I have a fix. I also own a mk2 Golf and I spotted a detail on the gas peddle cable that is the same for adjustment, at the end there is a castellated section with a clip on it for tension, I added a couple of castellations to the tension and I now have 1k solid tickover. 😁 The clip sinks into the rubber grommet, lowering the tension over time. 😎

I have looked at the back of the engine where there are some holes in the casing to show the fly wheel, I think it should be there. I have checked the exhaust manifold side also. I am wondering if I need to get the car on ramps and take off the under cover.

I have a new cold start valve in as it would not start before. The idle problem kicks in at 80 degrees and above.