Sid2020
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The longer you drive with a defective clutch you run the risk of damaging your DMF which would cost you alot to replace, I would change it sooner rather then later. My biting point with old clutch and new clutch is smack in the middle. Sacs clutch’s like what will be fitted to b9’s shouldn’t experience bite point travel, they usually just start slipping once all travel is used
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Sound coming from Vacuum/Oil pump? Or bad belt tensioner?
Sid2020 replied to LinasO's topic in Audi A4 (B9) Forum
Have you checked your serpentine belt as may be contaminated with antifreeze which would cause slippage under load. -
Have you looked online how much a used one would be, this would be used to just check basic functions as would be coded to different vehicle but should still get high beam function with the stork
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You can jump the electrical side of the valve to see if your aircon pump clutch engages which would confirm what your suspectin. to change the sensor without degassing is usually possible as it should screw into a valve that will stop the gas escaping
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This is the Amazon seller I bought mine from and appears to be manufactured on same line as the Audi sold ones. materials and markings matched up and even just had the Audi logo marking scratched off. The One on the listing photo looks like cheap rubbish but that’s not what they sent
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Pretty sure it’s the same part number across most the range so will affect all models
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Believe it’s a multifunctional relay for main and dipped beam, I would look behind the fuse box on drivers side as relays hidden back there
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How to source a clutch kit for Audi A4 B9 1.4 TFSI
Sid2020 replied to Matthew12106's topic in Audi A4 (B9) Forum
If you get your slave cyclinder from Audi double check that it comes fitted with the seals, I’ve had to order them seperate for B9’s, also didnt come with the elbow that has the bleed nipple on it. the LUK slave that comes in the clutch kit comes with the seals and elbow already fitted. Il attach a picture of the fax that Audi use for the slave Incase it helps
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That’s how Tesla’s work, very impressive when you drive off the ferry
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If you have your own diagnostic I would just unplug one at a time and check for codes each time to pin point which is 1 and 2, Should just give a open circuit fault code that clears when reconnected, replace these a lot from rear collision damage and never have a problem afterwards
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Should be fakra connectors, give them a spray of wd40 and wait 10 minutes. Use a small pick to help release the tab
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Not sure about the A3 but my understanding is antenna 1 is in the roof fin and antenna 2 is behind rear bumper bolted to the rear panel, typically on left hand side
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Strange overheating issue - 3.0 Tdi A6 Avant
Sid2020 replied to memzey's topic in Audi A6 (C7) Forum
Any reputable brand should be fine, Audi don’t make these parts themselves anyway so possible you get the exact same item but in a different box. Active grills are visible looking thru the front grilles of the car. -
It was always in the mmi under car settings. Might have only Been on projector lens headlamps not sure about LED lights. It flattened the beam rather then full LHD conversion but was all that was required
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I would check all coding that you have done as if your sure the new door modules are the correct version then can’t see what else it could be
