James200

I have a 2013 TTRS, no spare. Not a good situation Here is what I did. Get a 2008-2013 Audi A5 compact spare, outside diameter is close to the 19 inch wheels on the car. Tire size is T125/70R19 I removed the left side foam, the Sirius radio box ( which I did not use), wrap the wires with foam to stop rattling and push behind the left cover On the right foam, cut a small amount at the top right, and cut out part of the horizontal section so that the wheel can drop lower Make a hold down, I used a 1/2" diameter round bar 1 3/4" long, tapped 5/16" NC. Get a 5/16" nut, solder on a flat washer. The 13mm wrench in the tools will fit the 5/16" nut. Get a small rubber grommet to put under the section of the hold down that sticks out of the horizontal round section, so that it does not flop around. Cut a small section of the horizontal lip of the cover on the rear of the trunk, so that the wheel will drop over the raised section of the floor, line up the wheel bolt hole with the hold down support. The hold down rotates into the slot in the floor in a clockwise direction, using 1/2" round bar will lock it in place Get a jack, I used from a Jetta I think, I had to cut off the tab so that it would fit into the slot under the car. I wrapped mine is some vinyl, it fits under the spare in place Get some adaptor rings, the centre hole on the wheel is 66.5 mm, you need a 57.1 to 66.5 mm ring. I used epoxy and a clamp to stick the ring into the centre hole I cut the foam that held the tools in the left foam, put in place of the tire sealant, and I put the wrench into a slot on the right foam after cutting a small amount out. I put a bit of foam under the wrench handle so that it woudl not rattle. I kept the compressor in place The spare wheel will drop into place, lift the front when putting in to get it all in place The cover fits over, it is about 3/4" higher than it was originally. I had tried the A5 spare on the rear wheel of the car before I started the modifications, works perfectly I realize this is not the most elegant solution, but the peace of mind to have a spare is worth the approximately $110 and 1 1/2 days that it took to do this. If I have a flat on a front tire, I will have to do some juggling, better than being without a 19 inch tire if it gets severe damage

Have a look at the caliper, and the bushings. My car is a 2016 (built in 2015) A6. I don't know if the calipers are the same, you could look up the parts breakdown on Audi site and see the part numbers for your car. Maybe the same or similar, but this is for sure the cause of the vibration in my car, I think the calipers could not slide easily, so that the brake effort needed was much higher, and the vibration was horrendous.

That link shows exactly what to do, and yes, it is the front calipers, apparently Audi knows about this. I used a wire brush that is used for cleaning pipe fittings before soldering to get all the crud out of the caliper, and really greased the bushing and where it installs in the caliper to try to keep the water out. The shake/wobble on my car was so severe I thought that people around me would notice!

I went through the same issue, I replaced the front discs twice, pads twice, and still got the vibration. I tried stepping hard on the brakes, my mechanic advised against that, he said the discs would heat distort and make it worse. The only solution was to change the bushings, it is easy to do, you can do it with the calipers on the car, just lift them off the carrier, a bit of manipulation, and then you can get the bushings out. To get them back in I used a clamp, the kind you squeeze with a pistol grip. This is WAY less expensive than changing discs and pads multiple times. The difference in friction between before and after on sliding the pins through the bushings was really significant.

This is the bushing pair for a 2016 A6 TDI

There is something else you need to look at. In Canada, corrosion is a severe issue, and putting a non-sieze compound on the wheel hub and disc face is standard good practice. However, the aluminum of the caliper corrodes around the bushings that the pins slide on, causing restriction to movement, so that the brake caliper does not move freely. This can cause you to chase an issue with the disc, and not find the solution. There are 2 bushings, you can knock them out, clean the caliper holes with a round wire brush, and install new bushings with lots of silicone grease. There is a soft bushing and a harder one, make sure you note which goes where.