Ian123

All now fixed. The sensors can be replaced without taking off the bumper. In my case the actual faulty one was on the corner, just take the 6 visible torx T25 screws out of the lower side and corner of the wheel arch liner and put a hand in the gap; unclip the sensor (took a bit of effort as the clips are strong and difficult to get purchase, see note below). Then withdraw and unplug. Plug in the new one and refit. A bit of silicon grease helped the new one in as it was a tight fit. The inner front one was damaged but still worked; but replaced just in case. Can be accessed thru the grill with small fingers. For both a bit of strong nylon string looped around the clip and pulled from below gently allowed the sensor to be pushed out, on the one in grille it was simple but for the one on the corner fed it up thru a handy slot in the plastic. Overall time to change about 10mins each one.

I have a similar issue with my a6 c8. When cold the drivers mirror does not unfold. If I fold and then unfolds using the control know then it unfolds correctly. I also have a problem in cold weather with the drivers door lock. It thinks it’s open when it isnt, rather than a sensible message it says parking brake fault and won’t open using the outer handle, but works with the inner one.

I have a space saver from my old A6 C7 in the boot of my C8 50TDI and it has been used once so far. There is a subwoofer in the boot but that fits nicely into the centre of the spare wheel, definitely designed to have a space saver.

Thanks. It does seem a bit annoying to have some much data available but no central reference but that seems to be the norm with German software 🙂

So the actual controller data appears to be mainly the firmware updates rather than diagnostic fault data. So the info from the main scan is: 233472 - Parking Sensor(s); Front B10FC F0 [00001000] - Function Limitation due to External Factors I assume the B10FC F0 is the useful data, web based AI suggests the F0 means all the sensors are good!

Interesting software seems to be able to get loads of diagnostic information from the car but I am struggling to find where to turn this data into information to fix it. So from the main scan the error B10FC F0 comes up and if i clear it and drive the car it comes straight back, so a real error. So if I get the data from the actual controller even more data. But not sure where to look to find out what the data means - its likely to be a hardware fault but which bit! I tried the Ross Tech Wiki but this doesnt seem to give any simple way to translate, am I missing something obvious?

Thanks. Now ordered a three vehicle license.

Thank you. You say ‘an old laptop’ is that because of compatibility or just that using it in the garage is detrimental? I will definitely buy the Ross Tech software, I wish I had years ago as it would have saved me a load of time

My A6 C8 is a lovely car but regularly throws up warnings. Most are spurious but some have resulted in real failure. The recent one was an air suspension fault which the local garage fixed but they say some of the faults need the main dealer to diagnose as their system cannot read all the details. I was thinking of buying the Ross Tech software so when I get a fault I can do the first diagnostics myself and then decide if it’s a job for the local garage or the main dealer. Both are good but one is more expensive. So the question is can the Ross tech Software get all the information and if not what are the limitations? For example I need a new front parking sensor, can it identify which one and calibrate it?

Here is a picture. Mine is a high spec car so has the sub woofer in the boot. This is designed to fit inside the spare wheel. See picture attached.

did you get this resolved? My 50tdi has a suspension low message and the local garage found that the ecus werent talking which I assume are can bus errors.

very likely will fit. I have one from a 2011 car that fitted mine.

I have a 50tdi 2018. It is an excellent drive, so good I have kept it since nearly new (ex demo). Probably the nicest car I have owned in 40 years but also the least reliable by a massive margin but I like it so much I have kept it. Not cheap to repair as the normal garage diagnostics are kept out of half of the modules so main dealer the only option.

Mine needed changing at 43000. Audi quoted £2000 for front and rear pads and discs. My local trusted garage had a look, discs were still ok so replaced it with OEM parts for a total cost £283.

A very detailed post. Very interesting as this fault has been common on Audi/VW for years. I had it on an A6 C7 and drove to the dealer (on fumes) and he opened the filler with a carefully aimed thump on point the filler flap - Hey presto it opened. He showed me to do it as the cost of the part and labour a bit steep. So once on a while it would stick and the gentle thump would fix it. However after a while I just filed off the plastic lugs on the little locking piece so that it couldn't lock.