Brucielee

I've listened four or five times there, there is a distinct rattle or knocking, is it only second it happens, does it definitely sound outside, 

Welcome Dale to AOC, that's a great looking wagon you've got there, tinted glass and black rims look smart on a white car, what's the plans for it, any upgrades or mods, 

If there's anything you need to ask don't hesitate, there is plenty of help in the forum 

Happy days, glad you got to the bottom of it, nice car too, any pics of it 

I take it there's no puddles on the under tray either,

You say the waterpump had been done not that long ago, I would maybe get that checked, as it's behind the plastic cover over the timing belt you wouldn't see if water was coming from there or not,

Than again  I was losing coolant from a stress crack underneath the expansion tank which I couldn't see,  

Where you able to get it sorted out Qasim, is it petrol or Diesel?

That would be my first port of call Stanley, see if you can source a wiring loom cheap and change it, I had a bad door wiring loom and it worked intermittently while driving, the conclusion was that the vibrations of driving were making a bad wire connect and disconnect, I know it's not sensors but you'll maybe find that the wiring is doing something similar, hope you get it sorted, 

Can you get access to the sensors wiring, I was going to suggest unplugging them one by one to see if there is one of them that maybe has a bad wire that's causing the fault, I'm not sure if they work independently or as a one, I know you said they are all new sensors, but fractured or corroded wiring is always a possibility, and not sending the information, which could be why and it sounds daft that it's working OK after you drive and warm up, which could be also why the auto sparks couldn't find a fault, 

not just as easy as a plug and play ralph, unfortunately there arent too many replacements if any that will just slot in and play, 

this isnt to scare you off from doing the replacement

youll need to know your sound system whether its fully or part amplified, or a bose system, a bose system is easily identified by the speaker covers, it normally says on them bose, youll need a wiring adapter for that, youll need an aerial amplifier, all can be got quite easily on thE bay and fairly inexpensive too, you will lose the key on/off function unless you wire it seperately, 

see if you can find someone first with the same, you wouldnt want to throw your money away if it happens to be something else, i would doubt it but better safe than sorry i suppose

well, what if, simple question

so what if you had a suggestion

what if you put it forward

what if it was accepted

what if

what if you pass your suggestions on 

what if we take a look 

what if you just do that

post your suggestions on what you would like to see on the forum, give us some idea of what floats your boat

but keep it within reality, keep it clean and tidy

there are some great guys looking after this forum so help them help you 

well

WHAT IF!!!!

on this topic why not list your ideas below for everyone to see, get comments and feedback and see where we go

Sounds good, heard good reports about the revo remap, get the mods done before the remap tho 

Welcome to AOC Davidc, get some pics up when you get the car, sounds a nice one, any ideas of what you want to do with it or will it stay in its natural form 

Hello Ralph, it's probably easier and less expensive to buy a replacement rather than fixing, do you know anyone that has the same dvd unit to try or have you looked at an exact replacement. 

Do you have your owners maintenance manual, if I'm right, and someone may correct me, if you take it to an audi dealer within the 12 years paint and corrosion warranty and as long as it's had no work done paint ways then they should replace or repaint the bad body work 

Hope that helps 

I'd agree with James with the battery to start with, quite a lot of cars suffer from dud or old batteries although they seem to work fine, but before going down the long list of sensors and spending endless amounts of chasing I'd do a complete service on it, Oil and filters, air and plugs and leads etc etc, irrespective of what you've been told you'll then know that them parts are all new, rubbish plugs or weak leads or old can cause rubbish running also take the plugs out and check each one to see if there are any spark lines or black spark marks on the white of them, if there is it means the spark isnt going where it's supposed to, it only seems to make a difference at low speeds and not high which is why your motorway driving might seem fine.

not sure but would these have had an idle control valve, if there's not I'd check the air fuel mix at the carbs to make sure it's set right 

For the oil leak, is the oil filter close to that side or the oil filler cap, maybe someone had a mishap while pouring, 

your welcome, nice car by the way, ive the a4 avant in the same colour

hello there, if you go to the main forum page and scroll down theres a section called Audi Marketplace, you can see what others have for sale there, 

are you using a non return bleeding bottle, cheap enough at any motor factors, failing that get someone to give you a hand, nightmare of a job on your own, if someone is helping get them to push the pedal as you open the bleeding valve, when they get to the floor close the bleeding valve and let  them release the pedal, that way no air is being drawn back into the system, the suction sound you hear at the servo is probably the fluid filling into it, as the air comes through it, just keep an eye on the level when your bleeding as theres not a lot held in the reservoir and can be easy to let it drain in a couple of pushes on the brakes,

in addition make sure you start the car every now and again to let the servo run and do its job, 

Unfortunately you'll not know until you take it off whether it's blocked or not, is there many miles on the car, the egr valve will be the most likely, but before deleting the egr clean it and put it back on to make sure that's going to get your power and accelerator response back again, 

It's madness alright but then for a company it's all about the money I suppose, 

I think that's the way to go James, although I'll have to wait a few weeks and get the greyhounds gathered up, for a proper revo remap it's somewhere around £300 as far as I know.

I thought that too James although with vcds lite its code gives a maf sensor short to plus, doesn't see the maf even when it's plugged or not plugged in, there's a revo specialist half an hours drive away so it might be trip there 

No problem James, just thought it might be a help to someone with engine idling and running problems, same happened to a friend of mine and audi had already charged him upwards of £1400, plugs, coil packs and so on, by the time he found this, ended up costing him around £30 odds from audi for the same parts as in the video 

Had a look around for some info on rough idling and running and engine light, not related to my own car but thought this might help those that are endlessly looking for a diagnosis

OK here's another one, by the way I've only had the car for about 6 weeks so still ironing out the creases lol, 

When I got the car, a4 b6 2.5 v6 tdi quattro, think it's the 163 version, I was told it had been remapped to give better fuel consumption, thought ok it can be done, but doing a bit of poking around the engine and noticed the maf sensor plug not connected, asked the guy I bought it off and he said that the company that done the remap deleted the maf as this was to help fuel economy, I know you can delete the egr and dpf but never heard of a maf being deleted, is it possible and is it a good or bad thing, no lights were on on the dash which makes me think it was deleted although when I reconnected it I noticed my miles left on the dash didn't drop as quick as they normally do, I'd do a 30 mile trip stopping and starting and lose  maybe 50-60 miles where as today I done the same trip and only lost 20, which is more realistic, doesn't feel any different in driving response, any ideas as I don't have vcds or know anyone local that could do a test on it with vcds 

Before I sparked out the front passenger door wires, the rear passenger door worked fine, then I sparked the front door and rear lock stopped working, now I've replaced the front door loom and now the rear lock is making sounds but not locking,  yes James the rear door didn't work at all until I replaced the loom to fix the front door, weird eh