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I wasn't going to comment at this point as I see nothing good to comment on but as you have specifically pushed for a reply I will give you one. I am a fully qualified radio electronic maintainer, now retired, with many years experience maintaining, repairing and altering equipment both mechanical and electronic. I virtually built my first vehicle from scrap and in the early days spent many hours under the bonnet or the whole vehicle servicing, repairing and altering to keep it on the road. No-one asked me for my credentials and I saw no reason in supplying them. I have a garage with an electric door that opens from a fob just throwing about in the drink wells of the car, it would be so much neater to have a dedicated button on the dashboard to do this. I have already dismantled the fob and added two wires into the switch that could be plugged into a hidden socket under the dashboard connected to one of the switches and have absolutely no qualms about adding a pair of wires on a socket to do this. You and your co-commenters didn't ask about my ability before criticising my efforts. I looked at the question again and couldn't find the part that says "don't help me just criticise my efforts". I do feel that had you been around in the early days of man we would still be hunter gatherers without even the use of the wheel and that is a world I don't wish to return to so If you don't mind I will not get involved in criticisms of people who are trying to improve the world and there own part in it. Please don't bother commenting unless it is to offer assistance with my original question as I am sure this answer will be criticised just as much, remember you called for a reply.

Sorry couldn't find a way to edit this post. Not sure what this pipe is coming from under the air intake. The far end is not connected to anything. Is it suppose to be like that. Have looked a lot on line but can't get an answer. Thanks.

Hi can't find any good set ups . Pictures on some of the forums are a little vague. I have the 2.7T

Yes, it does have an SD slot, but from what I've seen on YouTube the car it should have a USB port as well, which my car doesn't.

Hi folks i hope someone can help . I have a 2014 Audi a6 c7 sline ultra automatic intermitting stalling when about to take off and also when driving the car also has intermitting jerking as if for a split second fuel was cut. sometimes it can be ok for a week or so then other times it can happed 2 to 3 times a day regards jerk when driving the stalling when taking off happens only about once a week or fortnight. I have vcds and have run scans and no fault codes anywhere I have seen in previous post years ago of a fuel rail sensor issue but there are two sensors on the rail i did change the front one part No 04L 906 054 but it was 2nd hand maybe i should off bought new or maybe i got the wrong fuel rail sensor and that it is the other sensor on the end of the rail also I have start/ stop disabled so that cannot be the cause. Can someone help as I'm at my wits end as when in traffic at lights and about to take off the car cuts out i have to then put it in park and press the start button sometimes maybe twice. I dread that someone will drive int the back off me.

did you ever get the fix?

I have have a 1990s Cabriolet with black carpets but I fancy some original beige carpets were changed. I've no details of the original car's spec but could there be any code number on any chassis plate which tells me what colour original carpets were? Regards Nigel

2008 a3 Quattro s line I am already aware that the inlet manifold needs a change and so I am pretty sure this is the cause of my issue - however just to be sure I thought I’d ask When reversing after a long drive, I will stop the car infront of my drive and put it into reverse. I then notice that my revs are super high before the car starts to move backwards and it jitters - around 4.5rpm approx. Could this be the manifold? (Getting changed sometime next week) or some other issue? Thanks

If you can hear the solenoids then it would suggest your switch is working fine. My first step would be to check the level of the hydraulic fluid in the convertible roof motor pump. If you’ve not done that before it’s in the boot on lower right hand side. You’ll need to remove the interior boot trim to get to it. Alternatively, perhaps the handbrake switch is defective / stuck?

Hi I'm getting close to buying a new 2025 A3 1.5 TFSI 35 Black Edition Sportback. I'm in the UK. It will replace a 10 year old Ford Focus. Can anyone help me out with a few questions I have? 1) I don't really like all the data they collect via the in car eSIM (similar with any new car these days). I guess there's not much I can do about it? 2) I don't plan on using any apps, connecting smartphones, paying for services first 3 years or after. Is that going to cause me issues? 3) Is there any generally known common things with this vehicle I should consider before buying, or when checking the new car when it's ready? Many thanks!

What was the outcome ?, what did they replace & did they say what was causing the noise?

Thanks

Hiya folks…. Apologies to reply to, and drag back up to the top an old thread. I’ve not seen any other threads like this (but it has been a long week!!) is there a way around this? Code it out or similar? Every trip for almost two years now I have to change from efficiency drive mode to something else and back again to fully get efficiency mode gearbox (with intelligent free wheel etc…. I’ve poked around in VCDS but I’m very new to it. I’ve done basic settings and addressing of some heater flaps and I felt very smug at achieving that much 😂

Just purchased my 2021 E-Tron 50 and my AC has the same behaviour. It comes on initially and then stops working after a minute or so. I have a 60 day Arnold Clark warranty and i actually purchased an Audi extended warranty that starts in June too. Seems to be a pretty common fault unfortunately and bad timing with the current weather :-(

Driving the car back on a 12 mile round trip and the ‘checking engine light” came on. The car is a 3 yo A6 C8 40 TDi with 15,000 miles on the clock.Any ideas on what to check first? Is this a sensor fault or soot build-up? Thanks in advance for any gen

So... Camshaft magnets done, car insured again, idles smooth and knocking noise gone quiet Gone to take car into a friend's bodyshop (5 mile drive) Knocking nose starts again just down the road from bodyshop and starts running rough, sounds almost like metal on metal, plugged diagnostic in and cylinder 4 misfire. Compression test shows (from 1 to 4) 175 - 175 - 175 - 150. Looks like im going to need a new engine at this rate 🤔 🙃

Hi guys, air blower not working on my 2010 SLine TDE. The lights come on, but no and the dial goes up and down when adjusting it, but blower not kicking in, took blower out and it spins freely, guy at scrap yard checked it and said blower motor is fine, ordered a new resister and fitted it, but still the same, ( I suspect the new resister is faulty). How can i test the resister to see if its working or not? And if resister is ok what else could be the problem?? I have check fuse and thats ok. Thanks

Thanks Steve, that's a logical starting point. I'll see what I can find through them

No reason but I'll defo try PIM next time I need something.

A faulty wheel speed sensor

Done

Yeah was gonna do this. Don't fancy chasing wire all all around the car. Done that years ago in an old E30, that was ok because they didn't have the speakers in the doors just in the front kick panels and rear shelves. Plus not replacing the whole system like I read some have done, just the speakers that have blown. I actually quite like the sound in our A4.

Hi all, newbie here, I have a 2014 Audi Q7 which is now due service as light is on. I am more than capable of doing the service work myself and would rather do it myself after bad experiances with a few garages not doing all the work and making mistakes. Only issue is resetting service light, I know you can reset oil change light yourself easily but obviously resetting service is a different game as you need correct VAG equipment to reset. Does anyone know of a hand held scanner which will definitely reset the service light as a few claim to but im not sure. There are a few scanners around the £150 mark which i dont mind spending but any advice would be amazing, many thanks.

Well, still no idea what that telephone fuse is doing on the MMI loop, but to solve the issue, I wired the fuse to power only on ignition not constant live. Car still struggled to start in the morning, but it did on first try, it's never done that before. It was constantly drawing 7 amps, got it down to 0.9. I think I need a new battery as that's been up and down for so long. Let's hope this fixes it for now and I can remove the second battery. I fitted the missing mmi mechanism, somehow it doesn't fully sit in the dash, but pops up fine and the switches on the mechanism are now pressed. That's a job for another day..

Hello, I got the dreaded shift to P before leaving blah blah blah warning, took the gear selector apart, found the colour of the bypass switch I would need, ordered, tried to fit, does not fit. tried the black one, also does not fit. I do not want to change the whole gear selector, one price, two the car is not even 5 with less than 40k miles, three it’s a hassle to change and I could be asking for more issues. Does anyone know how to fix this that doesn’t require a whole new selector or parts 500-713-128-A & 3Q0-713-128?