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Just had the car in the garage. Gears/clutch slipping confirmed, oddly no codes re transmission but several other codes, P010400 mass volume air flow intermittent P154B00 dpf sensor faulty P003100 P068B00 A few other o2 sensor etc. Mechanic said first thing he would do is change the oil, after that full inspection and probably clutch or gearbox replacement. How difficult is it to return a car for refund? I've had it ,8 days and it's a main dealer??

With most issues I try to steer clear of dealerships (other than some parts obviously) and try to find independent specialists who know the cars like the back of their hands. They tend not to charge quite so much and are enthusiasts about their specialist mark. Do you have access to any in the Winchester area? If you have they maybe worth contacting instead of the dealers.

It was an aftermarket pump. I took the car back when the same fault (no pump, no spray etc.) occurred within 1 month. The pump and pipes were all fine. They did nothing other than grease the bonnet catches. This fixed the problem for another few months but now the washers are again not working. The bonnet closure/contact has something to do with the issue but nothing on the www that confirms the fix (I.e. where the contacts are or if catch lubrication is the issue). I saw something reference the closure of the bonnet being key to the washers working but can now not find that reference again. I'd like to think dealerships would troubleshoot all potential root causes rather than just go with those that give them business.... but I have my doubts on that front.

Absolutely yes, I have learned to ignore it as it does just look like water. Car does short journeys mainly so as you say, hopefully just vapour and nothing to worry about. Thank you.

Good Morning Martin, Was the replacement pump a main dealer or aftermarket item? I only ask this question because I had the same issues with my S7 and the independent garage I took it to gave me the option of both, but did explain that aftermarket pumps can give up quite soon - maybe 12 months or possibly sooner after fitting depending on make As a consequence I opted for the main dealer pump and yes it was dearer, but not by a huge amount and its still working! Best of luck sorting it Chris

What progress on this Michael?

Yes stays at 90. When the EML comes on, if you stop then restart, that journey also stays at 90. But on the one occasion the EML came on and we didn’t stop/re-start, it went just above 90 and fans were blowing hard. That’s what made me finally book it in. Error code is P00B700

If that was really true don't you think Audi would have supplied their cars filled with a high viscosity oil at the factory? There are very good reasons for a specific quality of oil being chosen for a particular application, so it would be foolish for a novice to even consider changing to something different if it does not match the original specification.

Just because the casing or outer box is identical from one model to the next, does not mean the gear ratios inside are also identical.

Welcome Russell, To me, I’m finding it very difficult to link the diagnosis to the symptoms! Would suggest you consult another trusted independent. Does the coolant temperature stay constant at around 90 C and get to that temperature within about 3 miles? Regards, Gareth.

I've switched from Tesla to Audi and have subscribed to Tesla Charging for non-Tesla EV's which seems to be the most cost effective DC charging option out there. Does anyone know how to plan a trip on the MMI to charge at those Tesla chargers open to non-Tesla EV's - I was just thinking about ensuring the battery is prepared for charging. Thank you

Hello Martin, Have you blown out all the lines with an around 30psi air line? Have you check that the washer reservoir is free from slimy sludge at the bottom, and that the pre pump filter gauze is clean? Have you confirmed the pump is receiving a 12 volt supply - or not? Regards, Gareth.

Hi all, after some advice from the community please. I have a 2014 A4 Avant with the 1.8TFSI engine (170bhp version). For the last few months I’ve been getting an intermittent EML and car going into limp mode. It happens when the car is up to temp and the gap between the two journeys is quite short, eg within 30 minutes so that the car is still warm from before. If I turn the car off and on again the EML goes away and I have full power. I took the car to my local independent VAG specialist and they have suggested replacing the water pump & thermostat as it comes as one unit, but cost is over £1k all in. There’s no sign of coolant leaking on the pump. Obviously keen not to spend that level on a £4k car but wanted to get advice on repair & cost? Thanks

Download the Waze App and that has Speed camera alerts!

Recently joined this Forum and have found lots of useful information on MMI not working but unfortunately cant get mine to work yet. Car is a 2012 Audi Q5 2.0 TDI S Line UK Car. Steps so Far - Checked 5A MMI fuse front passenger side and 7.5A fuse in the boot - Checked Radio unit in boot and MMI head unit at front both have power and ground supply - Used an optic bypass on the radio and head unit - Charged the battery which was reading 13v on multimeter after charge and also coded in using VCDS - Changed the centre console panel - Used VCDS Optical Bus Diagnostic which showed 19-CAN Gateway, 5F Information Electr.(High/D3), 56 Radio all ok both electrical and optical - VCDS also could not reach 5F or 56 when I ran an autoscan which seems to contradict the information above? - VCDS also showed a 00384 - Optical Databus fault which I'm assuming is part of the problem? The only other thing I can think off is order an MMI head unit from Ebay and try that but any other ideas would be appreciated

Hi Did you ever get this sorted out ? I’m having exactly the same problem?

Hi, hoping someone can help. The front windscreen washers on my A6 are not working. No pump noise but the fuse is fine and the pump was changed. Can a fault with the bonnet catch cause such issues? Garage told me it could but I can't find anything anywhere about this as cause.

Hi, I have gotten my new audi A1 2018 car a few days ago. I have been trying for several days to connect my phone to the bluetooth however when clicking on the “telephone” option on the main menu it states “ telephone is not installed”. My dealership stated that I would just need a SD card and that I would need to sort out my connectivity with audi themselves. Was wondering if anyone could help with any other quicker solutions at all as i don’t entirely believe what i have been told

Any response for the forum Martin?

No problem Parm, but if you decide 0w/20 is the way you will go, it won’t just be any 0w/20 - or necessarily a Shell brand because you can get it at a discount - but it must be confirmed to satisfy whatever VAG’s specification is within that grade.

You're best getting one of the same gearbox code ideally.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Thanks Gareth. I'll consider this in my decision. I'm complete novice so will take advice given from experts. 1 up on the 0-20w in which case.

Taking your belief that if oil is thicker it lubricates better -if so, why not go all the way and fill the sump with grease! Deviating from the manufacturer’s recommendations is entering a territory you should not want to be in, but it’s your car and your choice to ignore VAG’s advice and the advice offered on here so far. Good luck with whatever you choose to do, and I remain happy that the advice I’ve offered you is based on sound logic. Having said that, please let us know what you eventually decide Parm. Regards, Gareth.

In all honesty it's because 0-20w is such a low viscosity oil. Been reading up in numerous places that if the oil is thicker it lubricates the components of the engine better. Main reason for 0-20w was more to do with emissions and fuel economy which if I'm honest is less important..I'm more concerned about the long term health of the engine .