cliffcoggin

Cant say for certain, but there's a good chance the tyres will rub bodywork at full steering lock or full suspension deflection.

You are right to be worried. Any knocking that loud should not be ignored. It's hard to be certain without hearing it from above and below the engine, and without using a stethoscope to locate the sound, but the most likely thing to my ear is a valve bouncing off a piston. I wondered at first if it might be a big end knocking but it doesn't sound quite metallic enough for that. Get it looked into immediately and it may only cost you a small fortune; delay the investigation and a new engine will cost you a large fortune. Sorry but it's going to be expensive either way.

If it is a cambelt engine, (I have no idea what the TFSI means,) ensure it has been changed. It's an expensive (£700) job to do but far more expensive if it hasn't.

I'll report back when I have it solved. Thanks for the confirmation gents.

That's a good point Steve, and for a moment I was cheered, but having looked it up it was actually the N/S/R lock that was replaced. O blow! (substitute expletive of your choice.)

Fair enough Vincent. I would take the car back to the dealer and let him worry about the cost. He should either fix it or refund your money.

Whatever the problem may be, and whatever the cost may be, surely it is cheaper to get it repaired before the warranty runs out.

I don't know about the legality of the work, but an undeclared power increase will undoubtedly invalidate the insurance.

It can be slipped in easily, and during turning the smooth resistance of a spring tells me something is moving. This is the door lock that Audi renewed a year & a half ago so I guess the switch is not connected or a wire has broken again. I'll look at it in the summer when the weather is better. I really only wanted know if the key ought to operate the lock before attempting a repair.

Thanks Steve. I'll add that to the list of outstanding jobs, though being a lower priority than paying work it probably won't get done. Ah well.

Last week the battery died in my key fob so the doors would not unlock. While awaiting a new battery I expected the key to work mechanically by pushing it into the key slot, but that did not work. (Fortunately I had a spare key fob with working battery.) Was my expectation wrong?

If power returns when you move the battery, either there is a poor terminal connection or the battery is defective. All the other faults may or may not be related to each other, but have nothing to do with the battery. The lack of error codes tells you nothing, they are in any case poor indicators of faults even when a code is generated, so I suggest you get it tested by a specialist auto electrician.

Glad you got it resolved. I am surprised the garage pressure test didn't reveal the leak from the EGR cooler considering how easily you found it after stripping the engine.

Do let us know the outcome James. Not just to satisfy our curiosity, but to possibly help others who may come this way. Cliff.

Gareth. Surely if the thermostat was defective it would lead to real overheating which James says does not happen. I favour your approach to solving the problem by actually measuring the temperature with an independent device. I am not too impressed with the cheap infra red instruments, but the meters that have a contact probe are generally very good. Come to that, James could also remove the thermostat and test it hot water.