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Magnet last won the day on November 26

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    A3 1.6 Sportback
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  1. Hello Eric, Apologies if this appears to come over as opinionated, but the strong vibe I’m getting here is that you think the seller is charging £500 too much for the car, and you are looking for advice on whether the car is worth the asking price. Unfortunately, I cannot see you are going to get sound advice on this since no one on here has seen the car to appreciate its true condition, and the ‘valve for money’ can only be judged by a thorough inspection. As Steve says, it’s now a seller’s market, so if it is what you want, and you can afford the asking price ( with some in reserve for yet undiscovered issues) then you either choose to buy it, or look for another one for sale at £3,500. Sorry Eric, but it really is as simple as that - unless the seller will offer you something off. To me, guide prices are just that, and for me, a cheap car is just that, and one in superior body and mechanical condition becomes far more attractive and worth a premium. Only you (and/or a paid-for independent inspection) can truly evaluate what the car is worth - to you (in caps). It is worth noting that condition is remembered long after the price has been forgotten! Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. My view with cambelts:- change every 5 years irrespective of mileage.
  2. Hello Karl, Are you saying that the second remote won’t open the car, or the actual second key won’t open the lock? Kind regards, Gareth.
  3. Hello Ray, Suspension issues can be assessed on the ‘shaker’ set up on MOT ramps. This facility ‘shoots’ the car side to side, and is intended to indentify any wear or undue movement. Kind regards, Gareth.
  4. Thanks Ben, ’….support for older models….’ Could we’ll be right, but everything is worth a try. Stuck on is not such good news, and I guess yours were victims of trying to pull off. I would guess this is going to limit your chances of finding good used ones - off doors. With door, so that you can carefully remove them with heat? Perhaps a daft question, but are you sure your particular model (trim level?) was actually fitted with them when new? Kind regards, Gareth.
  5. Hello Ben, As you say, they could be called any of your suggestions. How were these originally fixed Ben? They could have been on plastic fixings back then ( you will obviously have spaced holes in the doors) or maybe even stuck on, although a bit early?? Apologies for being a little off putting, but you could find that any old ones you find, could come as part of a complete door, so worth searching ‘doors’ as well. I wouldn’t totally discount the worth of going in to you friendly local Audi dealer (don’t phone) and enquiring about their policy for old stock retention/availability/ searching. Kind regards, Gareth.
  6. Hello Sean, Thanks for being in touch. Can I be excused for thinking you are taking an unnecessary risk here by not simply replacing the relatively cheap offending component, before this reoccurs and expensively bites you in the bum? Kind regards, Gareth.
  7. Hello Ben, Sounds good, and I’m sure you will treat it to a full service inc. air and fuel filters, plugs etc. before delving further into any remaining lumpy running issues. Re. the missing trim:- worth advertising in the classic press - such as Modern Classics etc., as well as searching EBay -U.K. and Germany. Kind regards, Gareth.
  8. Hello Ian, I can certainly understand your frustration, but in reality (at least as I see it - and I’m open to contradiction) - any replacement vehicle component (including a main dealer part) will be guaranteed for 1 year, unless stated otherwise. Yes I know the original parts can last a decade plus, but that’s the reality. I would also agree that a genuine replacement VAG component would be expected (in caps) to last longer than 3 years, but you don’t even know if you have a genuine VAG alternator - my guess is you don’t, but……. I’m very much with Keith on the benefits of getting an original component reconditioned by a specialist, where possible, rather than dipping your toe into the comparative unknown of the aftermarket world. Yes, by all means, vent your frustration at the garage, if that is really what you want to do, but I would be prepared for disappointment, and let’s hope that I’m wrong. Of course, you have the alternative viewpoint of your wife who seems to be saying to put it down to bad experience and move on after 3 years. Only you know what is best for you, and I genuinely hope you will get something worthwhile out of it for your efforts. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Ian. Kind regards, Gareth.
  9. Hello Michael, Thanks for being in touch. If you have any sections which look worse for wear - as you say, then you should first check the whole element for continuity. Unfortunately if electrics are not your thing, (and taking it you might not have a meter which you are familiar with ) then you are going to struggle to fault find this system - irrespective of what additional tips you may gain from here. If this were mine, I would be investing in an hour’s time with a trusted auto electrician. He will easily diagnose the cause, and inform you of the anticipated work. One place I can point you to looking at, would be the flexible harness which links from the body to that tailgate. It would be worth carefully pulling back the rubber covering and checking for any broken cables in this section. Very prone to breaking due to flexing as the boot is opened and closed. Kind regards, Gareth.
  10. There you go Ian - into the territory of a nice friendly, reasonably priced local auto electrician! Kind regards, Gareth.
  11. Hello Ryan, Many thanks. It’s always useful to know what has been tried, to avoid duplication of advice, and I feel that combining what we now know you have indeed done, with Keith and my comments, points you towards needing some assistance via. the use of the more the professional equipment I mentioned. Just one point :- personally, I’m not a great fan of the one way valve bleeding tubes, preferring the end of the tube to be immersed in a jar with brake fluid. Kind regards, Gareth.
  12. Hello Ryan, Sorry to hear of your problem. Are you now getting clear fluid coming through all bleed nipples? If so, you could try finding yourself an interested accomplice who can pump the brake pedal until it’s as hard as he/she can get it, and at that exact point you open the bleed nipple on that wheel. Top up the master cylinder and repeat this procedure at each wheel. See if that improves your pedal. It could be advantageous to have the engine running to gain the servo assistance. Please obverse all safety requirements. If this procedure makes a noticeable improvement, then I would repeat it until you are happy. If it doesn’t get you to where you want to be, then it would be a case of getting the system pressure - or vacuum bled. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.
  13. Many thanks Ian, Let’s be realistic here - why would you expect them to sort out a problem with the alternator FOC when the alternator is 3? years old? Bit of a tall order is that. I cannot comment on parts and labour costs in your area, but it would not be unreasonable to suggest that you didn’t get off lightly. I now wonder why you would want to return there, in preference to getting a trusted local auto electrician to check your alternator, battery and possible parasitic drain, and give you a reasonable estimate for repair. Possible gearbox issue? Put that in the pending file until you get the above checked. Kind regards, Gareth.
  14. Blinking heck Ian. £200 for a battery? You will need to find your invoice for the alternator and see what brand was fitted. Latest alternator output test result? Kind regards, Gareth.
  15. Hello Ian, A couple of points to add/ reinforce already asked. Can you confirm your battery is not an AGM type? I wouldn’t think it is - as Keith suggest- due to the age of the car, but worth double checking. Bad news if it is indeed an AGM since your ‘classic’ ( non intelligent) charger will have done it a power of no good! What make is this battery and how long has it been on the car? The replacement Varta 5 year guaranteed battery on our same age car is now showing it’s age, and needs renewing before the cold weather. This will give you some comparison. Have you remeasured the output of your (Chinese?) alternator? This is essential task. My feeling is that this is where your issue rests, and since you mention bearing wear, then it’s not out of the question that this unit has passed it’s sell by date. Certainly check all connections. Apologies for an alternative opinion Keith, but vehicles don’t normally have parasitic drains - unless something is wrong ( and Ian doesn’t appear to have checked that yet). The only draw there should be on the battery should be a consumption of c50mA drawn by the alarm system - once the vehicle has fully ‘shut down’. That would not be termed parasitic. Kind regards, Gareth.
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