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I had the ball joint replaced mate, but if you think ARB bushes, is it an easy job to replace?

Potentially if the balljoints are goosed. My money is on ARB bushes. Wouldn’t expect top mounts to have gone on 2017 car unless high mileage.

Would droplink sound rubbery ? Creaking ??

Audi service desks don’t listen to hearsay or talk of forums however well intended. Minimum is they will scan car with VCDS, then perform repair. Their labour charges are horrific.

Worn drop links or ARB bushes. Both inexpensive.

Don’t under-estimate the task at hand. Luckily this is a 2WD version, but you’re looking at 13 year old car, and everything will be seized on. Hat off to you for attempting. Look at parts here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6/717/5 If it were me, then absolute minimum tools would be air compressor with air hammer, axle stands, full socket set with 1/2” extension breaker bar, heat (blow-torch), plus gas penetrating fluid, impact driver, battery or power torque wrench, ceramic anti seize grease, coil spring compressors, scissor jack, 2-tonne jack, wire brush, preferable on drill attachment for exposed bolt threads. Put money on rear coil spring rubber seats. being corroded. Given the work you’re going to, this had better not be your daily driver. Allow yourself a few days, ideally under cover. Brake lines, then flexible hoses, clamp where possible, you’ll need to bleed brakes afterwards. Suspension parts, Meyle HD or Lemforder, and only torque with full vehicle laden weight. Prior to dropping subframe, mark position. At the end, you’re still going to need to do alignment. Also use new subframe bolts from Audi. You will likely need VCDS for rear electro mechanical brake, or chance it just leaving handbrake off and refit pads. Put the car battery on trickle charge, during refit. Given you’re going to hassle of replacing, then swap out rear bearings too. F.A.G., nothing else. Once done, spray everything with Lanoguard every year.

Hi all I purchased an approved Audi Q4 from Stansted Audi. At first glance it was a beautiful 73 plate sport with upgrades, registration LL73VNF. I later find out that it had been involved in some sort of prang and had been subject to a sub quality repair. I had a poor experience with the below garage though positively the garage were open to the feedback. They claim they are assessing it and will ensure it is appropriately repaired before it is sold again. I wanted to share my experience with you all, especially if someone else considers this car or garage. I may have just been lucky as many others have had positive experiences with the dealership. https://maps.app.goo.gl/UJDpEHaPUKWUefzv6?g_st=i Thanks all 👌

Good evening, I have just joined this forum after owning my a6 avant for 8 years. At the beginning of the year my MOT reviled that my rear subframe was heavily corroded so I took it upon myself to rub it down and give it a coat of paint. In doing this I knocked a fairly large hole in the right supporting arm of the subframe. Rather than give up on this car and rush to we by any car I have decided to replace the rear subframe. I found a replacement on eBay that appears to be in reasonable condition and I’d like to order replacement parts such as drop links, control arms if required and all the fasteners required. I am having difficulty finding part numbers especially for the fasteners. Are there any diagrams with part numbers available? I have found American ones but not exactly what I need. Has anyone tackled this job before ? I have a fair amount of experience working on cars but haven’t tackled anything like this. I’m worried about alignment of the subframe and haven’t worked out exactly where to start. I’d like to remove the entire subframe with all the arms, hubs, brakes etc then swap everything over on the drive before refitting. Any help would be greatly appreciated! 2012 A6 avant C7 2.0tdi FWD

Guys my S3 has been creaking from the front left side every time I turn left, it’s more prone when it’s slower, I’ve had ball joint and track rod end changed, no joy. It’s so annoying!! It’s sounds like a dry rubbery sound but can’t find what it is… It’s actually worse when the weather is warmer on a hot day. Any suggestions as I don’t want to keep spending loads and it still be there. Mechanic said process of elimination, could be top mount or steering rack. Tbf before it used to come and go, but as weather is warmer now i can hear it a lot more. Anybody had this issue, any suggestions or help would be appreciated

Ah, so you did. Apologies.

Added a genuine S3 Lip Spoiler to the boot lid. I love it. Such a small, subtle mod but makes so much difference. Next will be rear window tints. Just to smoke them out a little.

It is just 62000 miles.

Hi Cliff, I have stuck the number of studs and the pcd in the title of my post, thanks.

That sounds about normal for a couple of hours work.

A new transmission on a six year old car is surprising. How many miles has it done?

It might help if you told folk what PCD and number of holes you are looking for.

I trust my local mechanic far more than I do Halfords

As suggested - just take it to Halfords and get the alternator output checked.

NOW SOLD

I had an issue with the air conditioning in my 2019 e-tron 55, so I took it to Audi Milton Keynes. The problem was that I couldn’t activate the AC either through the mobile app or directly from the car. It was showing a fault code, but the code only indicated that the AC wasn’t working—without explaining the cause. After checking several forums, I found that it could be a pressure sensor issue. I shared this with the service team, but they insisted it was a wiring problem and said they needed to perform wiring diagnostics. In the end, it turned out there was no wiring issue at all—the problem was caused by a £100 pressure sensor. However, I still had to pay an extra £400 for the unnecessary wiring work.

Scan the car with VCDS. Normally when the dash lights up like a Christmas tree it’s a wheel speed sensor.

Hi everyone, I have a 2019 e-tron 55, and a few days ago I started noticing a noise coming from the rear when starting to move and braking. At first, I suspected that something might have gotten stuck in the brake pads, as it sounded like a scraping noise. Then I tried braking while the car was in neutral, and interestingly, the noise didn’t occur. I took the car to Audi Milton Keynes, but they told me there were no fault codes detected. However, when they took a sample from the transmission oil, they found metal particles and said the transmission needs to be replaced. I called several places for repair, but it’s nearly impossible to find a specialist. Considering the average repair cost for most cars is around £3000, the £4600 quote I got from the dealership actually seemed reasonable. They said the part will take 3–4 days to arrive, and the removal and installation should take another 2 days.

Hi everyone, i'm wondering if anyone can help. I need a set of cheap wheels to put on a 100 coupe so i can move it around. I'm having trouble finding some as it appears to be an unusual bolt pattern, I've found some trailer wheels and subaru ones in that pcd but thats about all. Is there anything else that shared that pattern? Thanks!

I have an A6 C6 2008 Allroad. Suddenly while driving I got a long bleep and the ESP, ABS and suspension pump lights came on. I was driving back from Spain at the time so couldn't do very much but it didn't seem to affect anything. The ESP off switch does nothing now. I don't know if ESP and/or ABS are working but the suspension pump is still working even though the light is on. The only thing I have noticed different is that when using cruise control it no longer automatically brakes to maintain the set speed. It accelerates fine but does not slow the car down on a hill. When you first start the car sometimes there is a delay of up to 10 minutes before the lights come on and sometimes they come on immediately. I have visually checked all the fuses for the ABS and ESP and they are fine. I can't find any other posts which mention these 3 lights. Has anyone any ideas? All help appreciated, thanks.

I took the car to a local mechanic. He was not concerned with what I thought might be a low voltage at the battery terminals whilst the engine was running as he said the car has smart charging which involves varying voltages. He ran a diagnostic and could see some warnings relating to something along the lines of an electronic turbo control unit (can't remember the exact name. I have the diagnostic report printout but not with me right now). He reckons it would be £300-£400 fitted incl VAT. He cleared the warning light from the dash and suggested I see how it goes before making a decision on what to do. Unfortunately I have been getting the drive system fault dash warnings since. But interestingly it has been manifesting a little differently. Previously the warning would tend to come on part way through a journey. But recently it has tended to be when turning on the engine ignition whilst the engine was already warm from a recent drive. I haven't yet had the warning whilst starting the ignition from cold.