spartacus 68

No, not used it personally. According to LLL parts, it is a subframe bolt (item 4) in this diagram). However I see its used on suspension bolt too across VAG range. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/n90924103/bolt-hex-hd-with-pin-combi-n90924103 Anyway back to your dilemma. Have you tried https://spareto.com/products/volkswagen-ag-bolt/n90956803 Based in Estonia I think. Doesn't say they are out of stock so ypu might be in luck. Be aware you'll probably pay tax at post office, thanks to Brexit. Dealt with the same ordering BMW parts via Hubauer Shop (Germany).

Is that torque to yield though Gareth? TTY fasteners are designed to stretch once torqued to final specification, whereas high tensile bolts can theoretically be reused. I know the frustration of searching for a part number and going down every route to source, but if the same characteristics of the bolt was used, I don’t foresee an issue. Your idea to add a nut is good, simply to clean the thread on removing once cut, then dispose.

So the key information for this part is its M12 x 1.5 pitch x 120mm. Tough times call for tough measures. Could N90924103 be used instead? As far as I can see the only difference is it’s 130mm. It’s a subframe bolt, so will be torque to yield and have the strength characterises of the original bolt. Remove 10mm off end, clean thread, etc.

If anyone with VCDS close to you, then that would be the next logical step. A Yuasa 9000 AGM is a decent battery, but for all you know there’s a parasitic drain, who knows. Any remedial work since then, such as dash-cam install? They should last minimum of 5 years. Bear in mind, visiting a main dealer to diagnose will be the same as renewing the battery. You can test battery with cheap multimeter. Should be around 12.4-12.6v with car not started, and running over 14v when alternator kicks in.

I doubt you will just find the bulb holder on its own, but just replace the rear light. Suspect original was made by Valeo or Hella. Get part number off the original. Now EBay will be full of dodgy parts, so look for genuine Audi OEM, not some LED retrofit made in China. With the part number you can search for the part.

Be interesting to know what the smoke test limit is for your car is. CO2 levels from new on diesel ultra ranged from 99-109 CO2g/km. I know the MOT smoke tests soot opacity only. Not mechanically related - but if for any reason car fails MOT and it's linked back to AdBlue delete, then you risk your insurance being invalidated. Insurers share this information for future. Also, when and if the car is sold, I'm assuming new owner will need to be told?

Check out LLL parts - that will tell you if part is available separately.

Publish your clip to YouTube then link it back here. Loud turbo, not sure. Granted, it will kick in around 1,500 rpm, but if it was noisy such as over-boost, I’d expect it to go into limp mode. If car is scanned with VCDS that should rule that out. Brakes, sticky caliper can make a noise, but disc would heat up and you’d smell burning. Stone behind disc and brake shield? Discs heating up then you’ll see heat spots. To rule out, drive for 10-15 minutes and coast to a stop. Discs should be warm, but definitely not hot. When auxilliary serpentine drive belt was changed, no issues with job, no bearings on way out? No loss of coolant or other indicators?

Your video doesn’t play. Invariably these clips don’t add anything to pinpoint the source issue. If you’ve had car 8 years, then you know service history. Suspect it could be a wheel bearing. You tend to hear them between 40-50mph. If you’re hearing it from 20mph it must be particularly bad. Couple of ways to pinpoint them. Car raised at front, both sides. Hold wheel at 10-to-2 position and try lateral movement. Then try at 12-to-6 position. Any movement should be obvious. That can still be difficult to confirm, so other way is to remove brake caliper and feel the hub rotation. Cars with Quattro drive are always hard to pinpoint. Luckily it’s a hub unit. Four triple-square bolts hold it on. You’ll need to remove through hub bolt too, and replace. Bad news is these bearing hubs can seize on, so air hammer is your friend for these jobs, plus flap wheel to clean any oxide corrosion. Use a smear of ceramic grease on new bolts. Parts wise, F.A.G. units every time. Pretty sure that will be OEM. Always fit in pairs.

Count yourself lucky its not the V10. The V8 is generally reliable, however you're buying a 2016-2018 supercar, so it's been around. History is everything. If there's more paperwork than a Brexit export, then you're on the right lines. If the tyres are on the legal limit and brakes need a refresh, then be aware it will be expensive and more importantly question why? Simply saying RS6 seems to add £2k to everything. I'd want the car scanned first off with VCDS to see if there's any historical DTC errors logged. This is a performance car so oil changes every 5-8k miles. In terms of issues. Air intake valves can carbon up. You could treat it to a walnut blast. It's sensor heavy, so if original battery, factor in replacement. It needs coded to car and vented. If panoramic roof, check drain holes. Run mild detergent down them (exit above hinge on front door) and behind rear wheel arch liner. VAG have specific grease for sunroof. Also clean rubber seals. Assuming LED headlights. Potentially LED matrix if later car. Then check operation. Dipping light adjustment on start up is normal, but any further sporadic movent underway points to damaged or siezed height adjustment sensors. Servicing, diffs could use gear oil change. Depends on mileage. It's a ZF 6-speed transmission, but there will be a filter kit, so unless evidence of having it done, factor in. Cooling, apparently this thing has multiple radiators, fans and oil coolers. All are prone to wear and tear. If the car was remapped, be very wary.

Audi main dealers do car health-checks as a matter of course when you're car is in. Think of it as cash extraction. Absolutely no reason to get them to touch the car. You're paying £200 an hour for a tech, not a mechanic, so seek out a VAG independent. For brakes, personally I rate Zimmermann. If there's a lip front and rear then replace discs and pads and do a brake bleed at the same time. Timing belt, I'm surprised Audi picked up on this as their service reception quote all kind of nonsense and VAG continually change interval times. Rule of thumb is usually 5 year or 60k miles on diesel cars up to 2 litres. Change the water-pump and auxilliary belts at the same time. No issue if the engine tray is scratched. If it's broken that's a different story. You can probably buy second hand part as new it will be expensive. Other than that - just service items such as diesel fuel filter every 20k miles. Rear spring mounts on Avants are known to corrode, so check out. Part is inexpensive, but you're probably looking at £300+ labour cost unless you're spanner handy.

To be honest just buy it from the main dealer. Probably less than you think and you know quality is good. You'll need tensioner pulley and water-pump too.

Single VIN is £169. If you have other Audis or VWs (works on Skoda, SEAT, Bentley and Lamborghini) then 3-VIN version is £222. You get different bundles. Get one with a plastic box, as the brains is the USB Hex-2 cable, so it keeps it safe. Order from Gendan. As mentioned - lifetime updates for the VCDS software. Occasionally the dongle hardware needs updated too. Regards the air-con flap, then scan car first to determine if it's motor or linkage. Either way you're going to be stripping down. Once you have an ID you can search YouTube to get location. Suspect it's not programming as such, but adaptation procedure once the new software is installed so everything works in sync.

VCDS will pinpoint. Generally speaking, usually glovebox out to locate motor. Anyway cross that bridge once you get it scanned.

Not much to go on. The only thing back there is the rear diff. Any signs of weeping? Any sides lower such as broken spring? Suspect limp mode is not related to clunk at the back. Ideally you need to hook up with VCDS to scan and see what error codes are logged. Limp mode is protecting engine, so could be anything, turbo actuator, blocked DPF. Any warning lights, smell or anything else that's odd to throw onto the mix?