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Sorry about your troubles. I am going to buy the Ross Tech VCDS HEX-V2. You could see whether anyone is selling second hand on such sites.

I've sort of decided to look into a diagnostic reader for this and possibly other cars of this vintage on the basis that we had intended to hang on to the Allroad for another 2-3 years before trading on to a hybrid of some description as our main transport with something I can use for work as a backup. If anyone has a suggestion for an all round scanner that isn't going to break the bank I would look forward to hearing your thoughts. Thanks.

Hell Ashleigh, I’m sorry to hear of your on-going issue, but to be honest, I’m not at all surprised, and although my reply isn’t going to help your case, it may well serve as a deterrent to others who may think about following the same line of purchase. As I see it, the dealer should have sorted out the U.K. registration before (in caps) advertising the car for sale. In your case he has ‘got away with it’ by not completing the necessary involved work before selling you the car - without U.K. title. You are now realising that this is a rather involved process which depends on your (in caps) effort to sort out. Moral:- never buy a vehicle without a U.K. V5. I’m sure you will sort it eventually, but this responsibility should not be yours. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for the advice Steve, much appreciated, looks like no option other than to get the unit out before sourcing 😞 .

You'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up

You're welcome. It took approx 3 weeks for a reply.

Do you remember how long it took for them to get back to you? just so i know when to try and start chasing them. Thank you for your advice and help, it really is appreciated.

yes this is the one ive sent off!!!! im hoping that this will help because im currently paying a stupid amount of tax and it just doesnt seem right at all.

Lot of car for the money. Personally, I’d opt to change the oil every 6-8k miles. This will be a Tiptronic transmission 8-speed and generally bullet-proof, but again, if it were me, get the fluid changed. Yes, Audi will tell you it’s sealed for life, but ZF who make them have a service kit. Turbos, your guess is as good as mine. Don’t hammer it, and if you do, make sure it’s warmed up.

Good Evening Everyone - Thank you for this forum - I am in need of some advice please. I purchased an Audi SQ5 2015 last year - this year I had the coil springs replaced at Audi - they also completed a recall on the vehicle for emissions. When I took back possession of the vehicle after the work - the car was in Limp Mode. - after much negotiation and calls I got them to take the vehicle back and administer a repair. One of the things they mentioned was that the car had a Stage 1 conversion on it and they had removed the remap when completing the recall for emissions. They could not say what was wrong with the car. I had them Remapp the vehicle at a reputable place and took the car back. It was working fine for the past two months since that incident. Yesterday the went back into limp mode - can't understand why - Help please. Many Thanks San

Sorry I don’t think the video uploaded the first time IMG_5981.MOV

Hi guys I’m new to the forum, my a4 is making a strange noise when idling, it sounds less rough when the engine is up to temp but I’m just not sure what could be causing it, any ideas? It’s the 136bhp 2.0 diesel thanks IMG_5981.mov

Well I contacted bag for a certificate of conformity for my A6 which is over 20 years old via this email address: [email protected] For the email you need to have the v5 in your name and address. This is the email I sent which I've done for you as a template: To whom it may concern, Please can I obtain a certificate of conformity for my 2014 Audi A1. Vin: Your name Your address Your postcode Kind regards Your name

Great job!

All those components you've mentioned could fail but if it's been well maintained then that reduces the risk. What major parts has it had changed, do you know? Might be worth asking the original owner or the mechanic if any of those parts have been changed except for the air suspension (I'm assuming hu changed the rear suspension air bags, and not the compressor?).

In theory the letter denotes the version of that part. So in theory a would be the first and so on. This could a So very depending on the model the screen is intended for too potentially. Ideally you'll want the whole code before ordering anything.

I just bought a 178k Bitdi for £6k. It's got a full history with oil changes every 10k miles but gearbox oil not changed (or at least can't find any record). Drives like a dream and in great condition. Spoke to owner who had it from registration until 2021 and also his mechanic who looked after it once out of warranty. Been through 2 others in quick succession with less miles but again service schedule maintained. So it's a good car with a good provenance. Last guy did rear air suspension, serviced and gave it new tyres. This car has been loved! But I am terrified the thing is going to crap out - I have read too many horror stories about turbos, compressors, gearboxes, DPFs and EGRs and that it's just a matter of time. Am I mad? would you guys have done it?

Thanks for the suggestion daveyboy1967. Good idea. in the end I tried leaving the car with the rear facing the sun so that the plastic of the replacement window would get really hot. That, along with some repairs to the zip, which had detached from the hood in one area (I used a Speedy Stitcher to stitch it back into place) seems to have done it! There are some creases, and I did have to use some clear sealant to improve the rubbish gasket that came with the window, but it’s ok. Certainly worth a punt rather than shelling out for a new hood or travelling to Coventry to get a new window stitched in. At least now it’s waterproof and presentable.

Hi ALL I have an Audi 80 Cab (1999) (1.8 ADR) and have a warm start issue. I have systematically gone through all parts on the injection system (MFC, Hall, knock sensors, pump, filter etc) and electrics. Appears to be starved of fuel, the next plan is to inspect/replace injectors. Appreciate any thoughts, I have health stock of bits and happy to share stories, I own her for about 20 years. Thanks John

Thanks Steve, good to know the screens are the same. Do you happen to know if the the letter at the end of the part number is relevant as I cannot see the part number until the old screen is out which is unfortunate as it seems quite a big job to remove it, find the exact part number, replace the old one (although not working) while I source a replacement. Once again any advice gratefully received!!

Not sure changing tyres will make that much difference. I think the car lacks insulation. I did try stuffing the boot well with towels to see if it helped - it didn't. Lack of insulation combined with low profile tyres is the cause I suspect. I had forgotten I was still on this forum. I'll be leavinfg it now. Good luck.

Not sure changing tyres will make that much difference. I think the car lacks insulation. I did try stuffing the boot well with towels to see if it helped - it didn't. Lack of insulation combined with low profile tyres is the cause I suspect. Good luck.

so im looking around and it's saying due to the car being over 10 years old it wouldn't necessarily have come with a COC, but i'm just trying to fond out a little more as if this was supplied it may have negated any of the issues im now having and trying to correct ! Got no idea how i go abut getting one though.

Hi. A6 C7 Ultra 2.0 TDI.2016. Under heavy acceleration the glow plug light comes on and goes into emergency mode. Resets during the ignition cycle. Could anyone help me to sort this problem. P029900 Coolant pump for charge pressure cooler, OPEN CIRCUIT. 0x00646E unknown fault code

sorry that would have helped!!!! Its come in from Japan. First got registered in the UK in FEB25, frst registered in Japan in March 2014.