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  2. If you can live with keeping the oil topped up you might be surprised how long it survives, and maybe get a drip tray to leave under the car when it's parked overnight or longer? An old paint roller tray or similar would do if you know where the oil is dripping from.
  3. I'm known for them mate, just ask my wife!
  4. Hi everyone 😀 As I just joined, I thought it best to intro myself here and showcase my pride&joy on 4 wheels 😅 I've had my car since 2023 and still have the feelings it's new to me. While I've had other VAG cars before (Golf MK6, Skods Fabia 2015, Skoda Octavia 2002), this my first Audi - wow, it's such a difference in certain aspects. I do need to get some repair work done, which I'll ask for advice in a separate thread. For more photos, check out the post I made in the members gallery. Comments and questions are most welcome.
  5. The general concensus is my car is nearing it's end. I will continue to put oil in it for as long as survives. It's such a shame as this is the best second-hand car I have owned for 13 years - it drives well, the bodywork and other mechanicals are good but without an engine... Thanks again guys for your time and knowledge. Much appreciated. Kind regards, Colin Dimes.
  6. Wrong thoughts Dave.
  7. Welcome Parm and thanks for joining. So why do you want to move away from 0w/20 if ( in caps) this is the grade specified in your handbook or some other official VAG publication? As well as the grade, there will also be a VAG specification within that grade which the necessary oil must specify - as they say on the tin. Although I use the correct grade of Shell Ultra for other cars, I only use VAG’s branded oil -Quantum- in our 176K A3. In case it helps, I use their Longlife 3 ,but treat it to an annual oil change irrespective of the much lower mileage covered annually. I usually buy from reputable sellers on EBay. Kind regards, Gareth.
  8. Thank you. I believe it was low fuel pressure, changing the fuel pressure pump (I’m so rubbish with cars as you can possibly tell) under the back seat did nothing, the guy at the garage said he thinks it now could be the ecu, they checked for any visual damage to it and nothing, I spoke to someone who deals with ecu’s and remapping and he said he doubts it is that
  9. Delios

    My Audi A3 S-line

    My "one of a kind" (or so I think 😜) Audi.
  10. Where was the car parked while you were away mate? Just wondering because there have been a lot of horror stories in the press recently about airport parking companies using (and often damaging) vehicles while the owners were away.
  11. Ah, I thought the above was the question, I was just trying to help in case you'd missed it.
  12. Welcome Jason and sorry to read of your problem. With note to your thread title of ‘Low pressure’, what pressure have you been told is low, so members can better relate to your issue? Regards, Gareth.
  13. Today
  14. Hello, desperate new member here, a couple of months back whilst driving I would notice my car 2015tt tdi ultra , hiccup , just a very slight jump, could be anytime at any speed, over a little time this issue was getting worse, could be 4-5 times in a row, I took the car to a garage who checked which codes came up, of which was fuel rail, speed sensor, camshaft, (sorry I don’t have the codes to hand), the garage wiped the codes and I drove off waiting for them to reappear. The issue at this point is now getting worse, the engine warning light came on, hillstart, ttps, esp etc. i returned to the garage and they tried a new camshaft and crankshaft sensors, these had come up on the codes, again, this didn’t sort the issue. i took the car to an Audi specialist and after much of the same they have changed a in tank fuel pressure in the tank under the rear seats, checked all the wiring in the engine for any wire issues, still the problem persists. The cat is getting gradually worse, and as said above I don’t have the specific codes but he did say it’s co stay my bringing up spied sensor and low pressure. He’s apparently done maf readings which came up normal. does anyone have any ideas please what thos could be, I’ve paid out a small fortune recently and not seeming to get anywhere. thank you
  15. Thanks. We're scheduling the appointment today. We had the diagnostic software updated but they didn't check anything else out on that appointment.
  16. I can't help on that score, except to say you need to find a way to test the output of the LT pulse generator (the Jetronic unit) before worrying about the coil.
  17. Springs simply do not break when motionless, so it must be air suspension which is known to have problems with leaking bags, compressor failure and height sensor faults. If the car is undriveable it will have to picked up and taken away for repair.
  18. Chris James

    Chris James

    Bought the S7 last year and spent months and months and them some more, trying to upgrade its 19" alloys. The issue I had was finding a design I liked with an offset that wouldn't extend the alloys beyond the arches, but that would give enough clearance to avoid touching the rather large, but standard, front brake calipers. During the months of searching I bought one set that the seller assured me would fit an S7, but in reality when offered up to the car, wouldn't clear the calipers. They were returned for a full refund - ok in the end, but a lot of hassle! This happened twice, but like I say ok in the end. Eventually I found a set of 20" multi-spoke alloys to which I fitted 275/35/20 tyres and this is the result - hope you approve?
  19. Hi Cliff I believe it's KE-Jetronic system there are no points involved. I tested the coil firstly by using a lead and cranking no spark from the coil I then removed it and did an ohm test which I'm sure was within the range. Now I'm after where to go next.
  20. Get it tested promptly in case it is related to this topic: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system/
  21. So what did they tell you? As I mentioned before, don't make a decision on the cars future until you have a firm diagnosis of the fault. We can only go so far in doing that in a forum, it really needs somebody with access to the car in order to touch and feel and smell and test. If it comes to the crunch and the engine is "beyond economic repair", to use insurers phrasing, would you consider Magnet's suggestion of throwing lots of cheap oil at it as a way of keeping it running? You'd have to tolerate an oily driveway and ignore the environmental consequences, and of course even the cheapest oil is not really cheap.
  22. Hi folks, We have just come back from holiday to find that our 2012 2.0 litre, turbo diesel Audi A6 Avant has dropped suspension on both front wheels. There was no warning or any strange noises prior to us parking the car up a week ago. Not sure if this car is equipped with air suspension but it is just an entry level A6, not an S-line. I have never known a car snap both front springs at the same time or for any suspension issues to happen at the same time on both wheels. I have no way of checking at the moment because the front of the car is more or less slammed to the road. Any advice / information in this regard would be greatly appreciated. Mandy 😏
  23. Tony. We have not established whether you have contact breakers (points) running against a four or six lobed cam in the distributor, or one of the early electronic systems that had some sort of sensor to generate the LT impulses. Naturally diagnosis of the fault depends on which system you have. As for testing the coil, I only did it the old fashioned way by holding the HT lead in my hand and cranking the engine. It was immediately obvious if the coil was making the expected 14000 volts!
  24. I did some multimeter testing set at 20k with the leads and got 8.5 , 9.2, 10.3 & 11.2 shortest to longest and with the coil to dizzy lead 4.3. On the coil itself also set at 20k from 1- to lead output 7.8 and set at 200 across terminals 1- & 15+ I got 03.2. Do these readings seem ok?
  25. Newbie here .. Hi.... I live in UK and own an Audi S5 Sportback 3.0TFSI (2017). Car is no longer under warranty and want to move away from 0w20. I can get engine oil from Shell via my company fuel card.... from Shell ...they sell these two: Which of these is right for my car ? I drive my car : - Mostly on motorways - Don't drive too spirited (only occasionally, never track day etc ) I'm not concerned about fuel economy or frequency or engine oil changes. Want to ensure I give the engine the best protection. Which of these do you recommend? Shell garages near me usually stock 5W-40 in 5-litre containers, while 5W-30 is harder to find. I'd prefer using 5W-40 since it's more convenient to buy, but if 5W-30 is significantly better for the engine, I'm happy to travel further to get it when it's time for an oil change. Thanks in advance for any replies. Hoping to buy on Sunday so hopefully someone can advise before then.
  26. The question was Dave ‘ is the oil consumption something you could live with….’ ?
  27. Thanks guys, I really appreciate your time and answers. I don't have the funds for a new engine or a replacement vehicle so Gareth I agree, my only option is to hope I can get some more miles out of my A4 before the inevitable happens. Thanks again to everyone for their helpful comments. Kind regards, Colin Dimes
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