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Hi I'm getting close to buying a new 2025 A3 1.5 TFSI 35 Black Edition Sportback. I'm in the UK. It will replace a 10 year old Ford Focus. Can anyone help me out with a few questions I have? 1) I don't really like all the data they collect via the in car eSIM (similar with any new car these days). I guess there's not much I can do about it? 2) I don't plan on using any apps, connecting smartphones, paying for services first 3 years or after. Is that going to cause me issues? 3) Is there any generally known common things with this vehicle I should consider before buying, or when checking the new car when it's ready? Many thanks!

What was the outcome ?, what did they replace & did they say what was causing the noise?

Any comments so far Bob?

Thanks

Hiya folks…. Apologies to reply to, and drag back up to the top an old thread. I’ve not seen any other threads like this (but it has been a long week!!) is there a way around this? Code it out or similar? Every trip for almost two years now I have to change from efficiency drive mode to something else and back again to fully get efficiency mode gearbox (with intelligent free wheel etc…. I’ve poked around in VCDS but I’m very new to it. I’ve done basic settings and addressing of some heater flaps and I felt very smug at achieving that much 😂

Just purchased my 2021 E-Tron 50 and my AC has the same behaviour. It comes on initially and then stops working after a minute or so. I have a 60 day Arnold Clark warranty and i actually purchased an Audi extended warranty that starts in June too. Seems to be a pretty common fault unfortunately and bad timing with the current weather :-(

Driving the car back on a 12 mile round trip and the ‘checking engine light” came on. The car is a 3 yo A6 C8 40 TDi with 15,000 miles on the clock.Any ideas on what to check first? Is this a sensor fault or soot build-up? Thanks in advance for any gen

Hi, would someone please help me out with correct settings for Bluetooth in the green menu, as I stated in a previous post I went a bit giddy in the green menu last week and everything is now either not working or blacked out. The Bluetooth simply isn’t working so some help would be very much appreciated.

So... Camshaft magnets done, car insured again, idles smooth and knocking noise gone quiet Gone to take car into a friend's bodyshop (5 mile drive) Knocking nose starts again just down the road from bodyshop and starts running rough, sounds almost like metal on metal, plugged diagnostic in and cylinder 4 misfire. Compression test shows (from 1 to 4) 175 - 175 - 175 - 150. Looks like im going to need a new engine at this rate 🤔 🙃

as i posted ...above

Hi guys, air blower not working on my 2010 SLine TDE. The lights come on, but no and the dial goes up and down when adjusting it, but blower not kicking in, took blower out and it spins freely, guy at scrap yard checked it and said blower motor is fine, ordered a new resister and fitted it, but still the same, ( I suspect the new resister is faulty). How can i test the resister to see if its working or not? And if resister is ok what else could be the problem?? I have check fuse and thats ok. Thanks

Has it got an SD card slot. If so I can recommend https://www.navboost.co.uk/. I upgraded my wife's 2017 A3 to include apple airplay using the software this company provided. Even though I had a few issues (which in the end turned out to be my fault and using the wrong cable) the customer service was astonishingly good.

Thanks Steve, that's a logical starting point. I'll see what I can find through them

What was the fault on urs then, what was replaced??

tahts pretty much the same sound as mine. as previously posted above, I had a few parts replaced and it was pretty much sorted but very ocasionally, it has started to do it again. im watching this thread with interest. fingers crossed your Audi specialist solves it for you. hope you post back here with their findings.

No reason but I'll defo try PIM next time I need something.

A faulty wheel speed sensor

Một cảm biến tốc độ bị lỗi ( của 1 trong 4 bánh xe )

Done

Guys !! regarding the creaking noise on the left side front. It only happens when I turn left slowly when parking up etc… I’ve had top mount, ball joint, track rod end and drop link replaced but the issue is still there. I’m sick of spending and not getting to the issue. I’ve booked it in for a diagnostic with an Audi specialist next Friday. The mechanic who’s done the previous jobs advised to do that. I’ve added a video with the sound of the issue. If anyone has had the same issue any advice would be appreciated. Someone has said change tie rod arm. IMG_7325.mov

Yeah was gonna do this. Don't fancy chasing wire all all around the car. Done that years ago in an old E30, that was ok because they didn't have the speakers in the doors just in the front kick panels and rear shelves. Plus not replacing the whole system like I read some have done, just the speakers that have blown. I actually quite like the sound in our A4.

Hi all, newbie here, I have a 2014 Audi Q7 which is now due service as light is on. I am more than capable of doing the service work myself and would rather do it myself after bad experiances with a few garages not doing all the work and making mistakes. Only issue is resetting service light, I know you can reset oil change light yourself easily but obviously resetting service is a different game as you need correct VAG equipment to reset. Does anyone know of a hand held scanner which will definitely reset the service light as a few claim to but im not sure. There are a few scanners around the £150 mark which i dont mind spending but any advice would be amazing, many thanks.

Well, still no idea what that telephone fuse is doing on the MMI loop, but to solve the issue, I wired the fuse to power only on ignition not constant live. Car still struggled to start in the morning, but it did on first try, it's never done that before. It was constantly drawing 7 amps, got it down to 0.9. I think I need a new battery as that's been up and down for so long. Let's hope this fixes it for now and I can remove the second battery. I fitted the missing mmi mechanism, somehow it doesn't fully sit in the dash, but pops up fine and the switches on the mechanism are now pressed. That's a job for another day..

Hello, I got the dreaded shift to P before leaving blah blah blah warning, took the gear selector apart, found the colour of the bypass switch I would need, ordered, tried to fit, does not fit. tried the black one, also does not fit. I do not want to change the whole gear selector, one price, two the car is not even 5 with less than 40k miles, three it’s a hassle to change and I could be asking for more issues. Does anyone know how to fix this that doesn’t require a whole new selector or parts 500-713-128-A & 3Q0-713-128?

Rather than create new post, probably better updating your original post 😉