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That’s the problem, even with a jack on the verge of lifting it into the air it’s still spinning and not locking on.

The balljoint should have a taper, when it's done up it should pull it's self tight and lock. You can use a jack on the bottom of the track rod to add extra pressure to help tighten it and stop it spinning.

Yes i am.

Right guys....... i put a 7.5 am fuse in No 1 in box under bonnet ( the box I messed about with Expensive lesson, although when the auto electrician check the cluster before I sent it off he said it was dead....... Thanks to everyone for their input and help... I am sure I will be back onwith more questions soon...

Cheers OJ! I guessed as much and fortunately have a laptop running an older version of windows. -the one before 10 I think - and now that I think about it, my bruv (who has the full VCDS setup) has loaded parts of the workshop manual as relates to bodywork on it I think......but he lives 300+ miles away near Newcastle and is currently on the other side of the planet for work.....I guess if it can hold the manual, it could take the software....I have heard it's pricey to obtain but that might just be scuttlebutt, I dunno. Ho hum, onwards and (hopefully) upwards. Thanks again.

Hi SM, sounds like your garage is the way to go but to scare your question, one end of the cable is plugged into the car inside the cabin on right of driver’s footwell, other bit usually goes into a laptop running Windows. Good luck with your next stages.

Nor the 2nd for me Jake.

Hello Leo, Are you talking track rod end here?

Hello Tom, Returning the car to the seller 5 months on??? 90 days is a typical warranty period. Your issues maybe (just maybe) associated with your statement ‘…done barely any miles on it…’. On the basis of eliminating simple low cost investigations, it would be well worth getting the battery efficiency checked - Halfords stores will do that. Spurious messages are often associated with below par battery efficiency, and your situation will be aggravated by periods of lack of use. Take the car for an approx. 30 mile run before getting Halfords to report on the battery’s efficiency. Please let us know how you get on Tom. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. worth getting the alternator output checked at the same time.

Thanks Steve, just been looking at a couple of videos on those. Have to say, all I want is to read codes to identify problems and reset them when the work is done and reset the service indicator. Not worried about accessing special features - well maybe set the one touch indicator function from 3 flashes to 5! - but just want the codes and reset functions so as I can identify problems and sort them. Handily, my local garage just up the road has the VCDS bits and when I pointed out the current 5cm! of ground clearance he said he'd pop down and scan for fault codes.....they've been MoTing and looking after anything I can't do on our cars for 20+ years now so a good relationship there . I'll keep you updated as and when, as I will certainly be asking about parts and general advice ......

It's personal preference. There's also obd11 too.

Keep us posted on how you get on

Definitely the best option. As let's face it, the screens got to come out anyway.

Thanks for the response, know of any good businesses to send one off to? Thanks!

Hello everyone, i seem to be having an issue where the ball joint nut isnt torquing up, the ball joint keeps spinning. I have tried clamping it ect but wont get tight at all. im suspecting a TT suspension conversion as been done, are the knuckles at all different in the way of thickness where the tie rod end ball joint goes into meaning the nut runs out of thread because of the steering knuckle? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Thanks guys, I’ve only had the car 5 months and done barely any miles on it so think am gonna try and give it back to the company I bought it off because they’ve basically sold me a defected vehicle.

Cheers for the suggestion... is this a complete unit or do I need other peripherals to go with it....looking on Google I see a cable and wondering what I connect to the USB.....

Sorry about your troubles. I am going to buy the Ross Tech VCDS HEX-V2. You could see whether anyone is selling second hand on such sites.

I've sort of decided to look into a diagnostic reader for this and possibly other cars of this vintage on the basis that we had intended to hang on to the Allroad for another 2-3 years before trading on to a hybrid of some description as our main transport with something I can use for work as a backup. If anyone has a suggestion for an all round scanner that isn't going to break the bank I would look forward to hearing your thoughts. Thanks.

Hell Ashleigh, I’m sorry to hear of your on-going issue, but to be honest, I’m not at all surprised, and although my reply isn’t going to help your case, it may well serve as a deterrent to others who may think about following the same line of purchase. As I see it, the dealer should have sorted out the U.K. registration before (in caps) advertising the car for sale. In your case he has ‘got away with it’ by not completing the necessary involved work before selling you the car - without U.K. title. You are now realising that this is a rather involved process which depends on your (in caps) effort to sort out. Moral:- never buy a vehicle without a U.K. V5. I’m sure you will sort it eventually, but this responsibility should not be yours. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for the advice Steve, much appreciated, looks like no option other than to get the unit out before sourcing 😞 .