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I fitted these P21w 1156 Ba15s LED Bulb White 6000K 6W 12V-24V DC10-30V Super Bright for Reverse Light Brake Turn Signal RV Interior Light Auto Backup Rear Fog Lamp Stop Drl Tail Position Bulbs Rear Fog Lamp 2 Pack : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive Absolutely no problems or errors and they're a huge improvement over the originals, like day and night (no pun intended. My A6 is a 2003 though so possibly may not be as fussy as newer models?

Is there a link for the stickers please

I’m about to start looking for an SQ5 between 2017 and 2019 and I’m undecided to which engine to go for was hoping to get some feedback on reliability between the TFSI and the TDI many thanks, Alan Reed

The longer you drive with a defective clutch you run the risk of damaging your DMF which would cost you alot to replace, I would change it sooner rather then later. My biting point with old clutch and new clutch is smack in the middle. Sacs clutch’s like what will be fitted to b9’s shouldn’t experience bite point travel, they usually just start slipping once all travel is used

Have you checked your serpentine belt as may be contaminated with antifreeze which would cause slippage under load.

I got my 2.0TDI B9 quattro timing belt changed + the waterpump and when I got it back going uphill the car squeals its quiet unusual.

Hi All my car is a 2010 1.4 tfsi 3 door has anyone successfully used a led for rear reverse light ie no warning on dash (canbus error) if so what bulb did you use? many thx in advance Dave

update again here is a read out for now on the battery until i can find somewhere to have it fully checked over

update this is what a scanner is saying should i still go down the route of a battery cannot get into a garage some i wont touch

I bought another replace screen that definitely works but it still had the same probably and I’m not sure what else to do?

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Please contact Trevor the Audi owners club administrator. His user name is Audi owners club. As the club is managed by a limited company I suspect you'd be in breach of copyright. Trevor can send them out to you

Hi people just wondering if any of you have changed the front fog light bulbs to led? I am looking at various ones mainly because when the fog lights illuminate my way to my door they are quite yellow and I would like them a lot brighter/whiter. Any suggestions please , if I choose some I will take before and after comparison pictures, this may help others in future. Regards Tim

Would I break copyright if I asked my local vehicle sign writer to replicate these for me? I would have them done with peel off application paper as others in the group have suggested

Hi people just bought a 2010 A4 Avant Changing timing belt and water pump before I use her until, for my own sanity. I owned an A5 3.0 v6 Quattro coupe a few years back which I loved but needed a replacement work van so she had to go. Always liked the A4 avant style so that’s what I chose this time round. Looking forward to being involved with chats etc with you guys regards Tim

Did anyone get to the bottom of this problem as we are now experiencing the same thing?

Luckily it's going into gear ok so don't think it's the gearbox , it's seems to be when I start to move while in drive or reverse, so it feels to me like something lose and knocking, im starting to think about lose driveshaft bolt .

Take it back. Transmission issues rarely resolve themselves. Assuming this is 7-speed S tronic. It needs serviced every 38k miles. If gearbox was serviced, I’d want written notification of that. It could be a firmware issue of course, so would need need a scan to check what’s what, but first thing the dealer is likely to do is drop the oil, new filter, etc. If there any contamination in the gearbox, then that’s on them.

You’re right to flag it. Something isn’t sitting right once the suspension or brakes were reassembled A single clunk could be pads moving in the brake carrier. Were the garage lazy and simply buzzed it back on? A strip down, blow out with compressed air and light smear of ceramic grease would bed everything in. The final torque on the hub bolt is with the wheel still raised, and there’s a sequence. Any other associated suspension links that were dismantled should be checked too.

Often a battery on its way out will trigger faults. Don’t put yourself in the position by trying to kick it down the line, it will let you down. If money is tight, then any AGM battery, VARTA, Yuasa, etc, same cold cranking amps as the original. In terms of coding VCDS if you know someone or OBDeleven. Fitting is straight forward. If you have scan software, then don’t bother hooking up battery trickle charge to points in engine, just take it out, importantly remembering to photograph the code and connect the vent tube. Code it in and forget out it.

Was your problem ever resolved Cooper? We have found ourselves with the exact same fault with our A1 (68 reg) and the car was sold to us by Audi used dealer with a ‘makeshift earth repair’ on one side which has now burnt out again and the other side is heading in the same direction. We’ve only had the car six months and have an Audi extended warranty for another 6 months. Not sure if it can be fixed under that. But if the fault reoccurs it leaves me nervous.