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Hello I strongly recommend not to buy this car. I had alot of sleep less nights because of this problem. Im Lucky i traded mine in for a Passat Bitdi which is similar performance with a stage 1 tune and imo much more reliable since ive owned one before from 120k km to 210k without any issues except for break and oil change.

Hey Dongleboo, Did you get to the bottom of this? I test drove a 2012 Audi A6 Avant 3.0 TDI on Saturday and felt exactly the same judder that you experienced, worst I found in higher gears at slower speeds when the engine was under more load and lower RPM I could feel almost a misfire, seller said he believed it was due to a injector that he has agreed to change what was noisy when cold. Wondered if this fixed it for you? I have to re test the car before purchasing but would love to know if the injector solved it for you, would give me a little more peace of mind!

OK David -missed that last sentence. Possible coolant temperature sensor that senses the coolant temperature and signals the ECU to provide the correct mixture in relation to coolant temperature?? They can fail to an arbitrary condition where starting and running mixture is too weak.

He says it's the 1.8 turbo petrol in the OP.

Petrol or diesel David?

So are you fitting a new track rod end, and if so what brand is it and where did you buy it from?

Upon reflection is it possible the fuel pump is giving up, as per the hard turnovers before starting, not so perfect idling, lean reading and not so good mpg ? My mechanic has a sophisticated code reader and every check he did came back with no fault apart from the lean reading

Hi can anyone help me with my radio code .I have recently bought the car and the battery went dead. as its old so when I put the new one on the radio is in safe mode. The code in the book didn'twork and its on 1 now so not goingto get it locked out.Also the mmi screen is blank.is the a rest procedure for that. Any help much appreciated

Keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Yes it has a Hex at the end of the thread. It’s almost like it runs out of thread before you can torque it up.

Does the end of the thread have a hex/ torx or triple square like the lower balljoint?

Hi, Selling my 2013 A8 Black 4.0 TFSi, 91,000 miles. In great condition, MOT till October 2025. If any interest i have plenty of pictures. £11250 Im in TA6

That’s the problem, even with a jack on the verge of lifting it into the air it’s still spinning and not locking on.

The balljoint should have a taper, when it's done up it should pull it's self tight and lock. You can use a jack on the bottom of the track rod to add extra pressure to help tighten it and stop it spinning.

Yes i am.

Right guys....... i put a 7.5 am fuse in No 1 in box under bonnet ( the box I messed about with Expensive lesson, although when the auto electrician check the cluster before I sent it off he said it was dead....... Thanks to everyone for their input and help... I am sure I will be back onwith more questions soon...

Cheers OJ! I guessed as much and fortunately have a laptop running an older version of windows. -the one before 10 I think - and now that I think about it, my bruv (who has the full VCDS setup) has loaded parts of the workshop manual as relates to bodywork on it I think......but he lives 300+ miles away near Newcastle and is currently on the other side of the planet for work.....I guess if it can hold the manual, it could take the software....I have heard it's pricey to obtain but that might just be scuttlebutt, I dunno. Ho hum, onwards and (hopefully) upwards. Thanks again.

Hi SM, sounds like your garage is the way to go but to scare your question, one end of the cable is plugged into the car inside the cabin on right of driver’s footwell, other bit usually goes into a laptop running Windows. Good luck with your next stages.

Nor the 2nd for me Jake.

Hello Leo, Are you talking track rod end here?