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q7 alignment

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Ive been to kwik fit today(a friend works there) had my suspension on the normal(dynamic) setting, all was in the red?????


 

Dont know why,he said potholes wear/tear,nothing odd.


 

had the toe front and rear set, had this set 100% in the middle (dont like this within tolerance thing)
hunter calibrated only last 3-4 days:) I hear dealers use same set up?


 

caster was out slightly,(only on front i think) had all that done
front/rear camber was done again very near the centre.


 

anyway front/rear toe,camber /caster was all now in the green and looking good.
passenger side front wheel was the only one where he could not get the camber in the green,he said maybe some bush is worn or someting.....it was 0*33 degrees  out,nothing major he
 said,will this be ok?????


 

car drives ok still only thing ive noticed was my steering was very light before,now its slightly heavier,just wanted to know if 0*33 degrees will affect a lot? he said it was over 100degrees out before.

The Audi centre network does use Hunter equipment and sometimes Beisbarth equipment also.  However, it is different to the equipment used at non franchised garages and is set up very Audi-orientated.  

 

Carrying out a wheel alignment on a Q7 with adaptive pneumatic suspension also requires use of the diagnostic machine to set the basic setting of the ride height prior to alignment and again  afterwards, as obviously this has an effect on wheel camber angles.  If this was not done, then the alignment is probably worse now than when you took it in.  

 

This is most likely the reason why he was unable to get the camber 'in the green' and hence the reason why your steering is now heavier (greater negative camber = heavier steering).

 

Tech 

  • Author

The Audi centre network does use Hunter equipment and sometimes Beisbarth equipment also.  However, it is different to the equipment used at non franchised garages and is set up very Audi-orientated.  

 

Carrying out a wheel alignment on a Q7 with adaptive pneumatic suspension also requires use of the diagnostic machine to set the basic setting of the ride height prior to alignment and again  afterwards, as obviously this has an effect on wheel camber angles.  If this was not done, then the alignment is probably worse now than when you took it in.  

 

This is most likely the reason why he was unable to get the camber 'in the green' and hence the reason why your steering is now heavier (greater negative camber = heavier steering).

 

Tech 

so its all wrong then? steering is only slightly heavier,and it was only 1 wheel that was not in the green.'basic setting of ride height'? how is this done....if i drive with it set at 'dynam' ride height all the time,is this not good enough,is it a dealer job then?

Also i locked it in 'jack mode' prior to adjustment

The basic setting of the ride height is a special height that the suspension is set to when carrying out the wheel alignment and the ride height is also checked and adjusted on each corner, all using the diagnostic machine.  The steering may only be slightly heavier but it could be causing premature uneven tyre wear now.  The dealers equipment costs in excess of £80k plus the cost of the diagnostic machine (add another £10k) so paying out to get it set by the dealer is really the best thing to do.  You also need to have 4 tyres on there with plenty of tread on first and not more than 2mm difference from one side of the axle to the other to get the best results.

 

If your tyres are on their way out anyway, you'd be better running them out and getting them replaced before you get the wheel alignment checked.

 

Tech

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