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Thank you for your help, Daveyboy. I've taken careful note of those sources for locks that you gave me but I THINK I've solved it without a new lock! I noticed yesterday that the lock was ticking when both the 'lock' and 'unlock' were pressed on the fob so this made me think (hope) that it was a mechanical problem rather than an electrical one. So I cleaned the mechanisms all out with one of those modern degreasers - actually WD40 degreaser. I put it all back together this morning after re-oiling and it works. My 79 year old eyesight and fingers aren't ideal for this sort of thing but I managed to re-connect the door handle operating rod in the correct place after a couple of false starts. I'll keep my fingers crossed. There are eight pins in the socket but only six in the plug but I'd still dearly like to know why six wires are needed for a simple open/close mechanism! I believe there are two, maybe three micro-switches in the electrics and the usual problem is that the connections to one or more of these become 'dry' or a little cracked. Very often simply resoldering the connections works apparently. They are simply (and cheaply) soldered in to the board and it's easy to imagine that they flex a little every time the switch is operated and eventually something gives. The micro-switches are, I believe, something to do with sending signals back to ECU about the status of the door: locked/ unlocked/ shut/ open etc. Thanks again.

And thank you guys for all your help on this situation. I really appreciate all the advise given to me.

My decision is still undecided but if it’s going to be too much headache then I’ll probably end up not changing the engine. I just needed some advise and guidance before I make a decision.

That looks identical! Thank you. I've sent the seller the Reg and VIN number to check. It's much cheaper than the German one (that didn't fit) too!

You could alternatively get a remap which does an adblue delete? Would cost around £300-500 I think