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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/21/2025 in Posts

  1. I think you're diagnosis is spot on. Have you managed to scan the QR code?
    1 point
  2. Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 sounds a nice A4 🙂
    1 point
  3. Thanks for your interesting comments. I have bought very little on eBay and never from a foreign supplier, so I am very wary of doing so. However, I'll investigate further and probably contact the supplier to see if I get a professional response. I'll also have to check on Monday how long the garage is willing to hold the car.
    1 point
  4. Good idea on the rolling road, hadn't thought of that.
    1 point
  5. Congratulations on a successful repair.
    1 point
  6. I have a complete set of front and rear seats with all door cards. All in excellent condition. Dark gray. Does anybody want these,free? rgds
    1 point
  7. I mean for peace of mind you could get a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. Or alternatively get it remapped.
    1 point
  8. If this is the engine you have the red box is the electronic EGR control valve, the green box is the vacuum operated EGR cooling flap solenoid.
    1 point
  9. Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch. Have you looked on eBay for food second hand ones?
    1 point
  10. New MAF sensor installed. Both fault codes cleared. Only problem will be how long the MAF sensor lasts this time. If anyone has any thoughts on where to fo with loom investigation that'd be appreciated.
    1 point
  11. So I think that pin 1 is sending 5v from the ecu to the maf in error. Does anyone agree? Pic attached shows pin 2 as ground. Pin 3 routes to B277 positive connection 1 in wiring harness. Pin 2 should be for maf to to send voltage to pin 22 in ecu, not send 5v to maf sensor. So what feeds pin 22? Anyone understand where in the ecu it can produce the 5v? Or where else in the system 5v could be fed into the ecu which is then going to the maf? It'd be good to know what other wiring I can investigate that could be causing this.
    1 point
  12. Mick, go into the boot on the N/S and remove the lining cover. There will be a brass pressure release screw that must be unscrewed (anti-clockwise) to allow manual operation of the roof. Also check for water ingress in each boot corner on these, it is very common and the main reason as to why the limit switch clusters seize on this model. Bare in mind when the roof is over halfway through the cycle the header catches re-engage to prevent any interference the headlining. You really need some live data to ascertain which of the various readouts are at fault. Hopefully this helps.
    1 point
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