Adam54

Ah, starting then dying is different from a 'fried' ECU. In my limited experience, a failed jumpstart can damage the alternator or stop-start electrics. If the car starts, then the immobiliser is working. And the ECU is also permitting a start. And you have fuel and ignition working, so we're way ahead in terms of logical fault-finding. Keeping the engine running is the challenge. I think you're jumping to conclusions that the ECU is at fault, when it is much more likely that it is a simpler, easier problem to solve. In order, my thoughts about possible culprits are: 1. Fuel pressure (I.e blocked filter, dead pump or pressure regulator) 2. Air Leak (I have come across a car with the inlet trunking disconnected that did exactly the same). 3. Sensor failure (in particular, a failed Coolant temperature sensor would cause this effect) I would connect a code reader (the port is behind a little removable panel in the front centre console). Have a look at the live data and make sure all the sensors have plausible data. For example, inlet manifold pressure, coolant temperature etc. You might hit the jackpot and find some codes that will indicate the source of the issue. You can get a simple reader for £35. On Board Diagnostics (OBD) became mandatory for petrol cars from 2001 onwards. The clocks are connected by a couple of large connectors on the rear of the unit. Access is a click panel and 2 bolts. There are some online videos out there that show you the simple process of removal. Have a look at this? Good luck!

My auto-dim rear view mirror has gone opaque, with a large brown bubble at the bottom. I've scoured the internet looking for a company that can repair them, but so far no dice. I've toyed with the idea of a second hand one, but none seem to be available. There are plenty of mirrors from the Mk2 8P, but the attachment foot looks different. I'm sure the wiring would work. It is not an MoT fail, but I'd like to keep what was an expensive option. Any advice?

Glad you got to the bottom of it. Very satisfying to not have bought 4 coil packs, new wiring loom, MAF etc trying to nail down the problem. Cheers,

Hi, I had an issue with my Alfa's ECU. I sent it to a company called ECUtesting.com and they were both quick and helpful. I don't work for them and there are other ECU repair companies out there. They would be a good source of advice should yours not be repairable. Good luck!

I've just noticed something similar on my car. I'll get back to you when I have a fix!

Hi, there are a couple of ways that oil can get into the throttle body pipe. Typically the camshaft cover has a vent pipe to send air that has been pressurised by the process of the engine running back into the inlet. This is normal and no cause for concern. Excessive oil can mean that the cylinder bores are worn and there is 'blow by'. There is normally an oil trap of some description, but time and lack of servicing can defeat this. You're doing the right thing by reconnecting the pipe. An air leak in this location will typically lead to idling problems. The other, more worrying source of the oil can be a leak from the turbo bearings. This is always difficult and expensive to fix. Good luck!

Hi, A common issue with this engine is the ICM or Ignition Control Module. It is a small black unit fitted to the air filter box. It is actually an ignition amplifier unit, with 4 power transistors within. Judging from other comments online, the transistor legs become detached over time (more commonly cylinder 3), leading to a persistent misfire. On my car, this did not lead to any codes in the Onboard diagnostic port. Access is easy and a replacement cost me £25. Good luck.