Prof Mat

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About Prof Mat

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  • First Name
    Mat
  • Location
    Lincoln
  • Audi Model
    A4 (B7/8E) V6 3.2 Quattro Avant, Manual
  • Audi Year
    2007

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  1. Thanks Steve - glad it might be of some help 👍
  2. OK, so the pics that were in the post did not appear once posted! I attach the word doc that I copied from - hope this make sense to you... Puddle light retrofit.docx
  3. I have just retro-fitted LED puddle projector lights to the front doors of my A4 B7 – while there are a few things out there already, I thought to add this guide in case it helps anyone wanting to do this. This is probably the other thing to look at as well: https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/retro-fit-warning-puddle-lights-a4-b7-salon-how-to.138473/ *Disclaimer* - undertake all modifications at your own risk – I am not a qualified mechanic or electrician. Once you have figured out which pin to connect these to, I class this as an easy mod that I think looks cool. You can also install a light in the red reflector on the side of the door, and lights in the back doors, but I didn’t bother. This worked for my Audi A4 B7 (2007) S-line Avant. The wiring diagrams I used covered all B6 and B7 so I predict this will work for all of them - I attach these pics as well. Items needed LED projectors Spade connectors for plugging into the puddle light 2x new wired pins to fit a 32 pin connector (4E0972977) Electrical connectors and tape Door card clips Automotive wire suitable for internal lighting Steps 1. purchase the correct puddle/entry projector lights of your choice – ebay has loads. I went for cheap non-genuine ones that have an S-line logo. 2. Check to see if you already have puddle lights installed! If you do just swap them over. Job done. (if the new ones do not work, try reversing the plug). If not, proceed to 3. 3. Next, you need to check the new lights works and see which terminal is the live one – LEDs are polarised – you need to connect the positive to the right terminal for it to work. You will need to get some spade connectors (good old ebay) to plug the lights into: I have an old low juice car battery and so once connected (the cheap ones I had needed the pins bending a little to get the plug in) just (with a pair of gloves for insulation) touch the ends of the wires to the battery terminals – if nothing lights up swap over. This will allow you to determine which is the live side. Make a note of this. 4. Next you need to remove the door cards. See this: https://totaltechnik.com/video-details.php?vid=19. You will break some clips; use ebay to get a bunch of spares. I bought a pack of 20 for £3.50 5. The bottom of the door has a template for the puddle light hole – cut this out. I used a 5mm drill and drilled lots of holes around the outside and then a blade to cut through these and a file to even up. Don’t cut the hole too large as the light just clips into place. 6. Next you need to wire up the puddle light. Here is the wiring diagram for the driver’s side door for a car with puddle entry lights (also attached with better res) If you scrutinise this, you can see that W31 is the one we want to focus on – this is the puddle/entry light. W30 is the red one on the side of the door. The live side is wired to T32c/13 – this is PIN 13 of the 32 pin connector. The same is true for the passenger side – entry lights go to PIN13. This is the grey connector you just unplugged to remove the door card. You need to open this up: cut the cable tie and slide out the pink tab at the end, then the connector can be slid out of the housing. You should see the pin numbers on the white connector 1 and 16 on one side and 17 and 32 on the other. Go to PIN 13 – there should be no terminal in there: you need to put one in. I bought a pre-wired 32 pin connector off ebay (pic) and removed some of these to use – push a fine point down on the raised metal tab on the pin and gently pull the wire – individual connectors should slide out easily. Insert this into PIN 13 on the door card connector: driver’s side (has many more wires due to having many more switches) And passenger side: In both cases the green wire/pin is the new one inserted. You now need to wire up the live side of the LED to the wire you have just added to PIN 13 in the connector. You can solder but I just used simple wire connectors and (see the white thing on the right in the first picture) automotive wire – but any copper core wire the same thickness as the ones already in the door will do. You next need to connect the other wire from the light to an earth. The brown wires – any brown wire – in this door all go to earth and it does not matter which one you spice into. I chose the one that was most accessible – the window regulator on the passenger’s side and the mirror switch on the driver’s: Cut wire and route and tape up as you see fit – I chose to follow the route of the existing wires. Also remember that if you want to change the lights at any point you will need enough slack to get the light out and unplug it. Here the finished driver’s side: 7. Remove and replace any broken door card clips and reconnect the door card (remember to connect the plug from the speaker that goes to the door tweeter and the cable for the door release). 8. Test and enjoy. Hope this might be of some help... driver's wiring diag.pdf passenger door wiring diag.pdf
  4. Hmm - does it still run if you feed it easy-start? If so it suggests the pump partially blocked or faulty or a partial blockage further up the line. Seems pressure can't get high enough - as you said originally? How brutal is it to get a new pump, or one from a scrappy?
  5. What fault codes is it throwing?
  6. Thanks - appreciate you letting me know Mat
  7. Hi all, Out of curiosity, does anyone know if B7s came with both engine and gearbox under trays as standard, or optional for one or both? I've only had my B7 project car for a year and I am slowly working round it. The (poorly looked after) car came with no engine or gearbox under trays - but what is even more confusing is that it does not have the under tray rear bracket (number 3 in the pic). It either means this was removed for some reason (there have been no gearbox or other subframe/engine issues that I am aware of) or it came from the factory like this. Just wondered if anyone knows what the situation might be? I am putting a new bracket and both engine and gearbox under trays on as I understand it produces slightly better aerodynamics (not that that is really an issue) but more importantly might offer protection. But it occurs to me that if it came from the factory like this then maybe Audi thinks there should be no under trays at all? Thanks Mat
  8. I've got the workshop manual for my 2007 A4 with a manual 6 speed (data sticker says the tans is HUN) - more than happy to email this if it helps? Best
  9. I had a non-bose concert system in mine but the CD player failed. After much looking and cogitating I decided to steer well clear of the Xtrons etc and go with a solid band and put a Pioneer FH-S820DAB, fitted with Connects2 kit to allow steering wheel control and rear amp power (careful you get the powerup line to the rear amp for the sub-woofer). You can set the button and display lights to red so it kind of matches. Sound is very good for the price... I am about to put new pioneer speakers in the front as I am changing door cards, so that should help as well Hope that helps
  10. Hi Lisa, Just changed mine as the old ones were fogged on the inside! Thought I would upgrade also but it is hard - assuming you have halogens then upgrading to HID or LED is problematic for 2 reasons: 1 - the electrics from the main headlight switch (and also possibly determined by the ECU) are set for halogens and you need a major electrical upgrade to change to HID and LEDs; 2 - the light unit itself is designed for halogen bulbs and HIDs/LED may not give the correct patters, and may fail MOT. I bought used headlight units on eBay for about 20 quid each and then stuck Osram Night breaker halogen bulbs in... Changing lights mans the front bumper guard has to come off - not too epic but not a small job HTH