DavidTdi

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DavidTdi last won the day on June 19

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About DavidTdi

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  • First Name
    David
  • Location
    Cambridgeshire
  • Audi Model
    Audi A3 Sportback 2.0 Tdi Sport
  • Audi Year
    2008

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  1. Yep water was my first thought but no the door is bone dry inside as I'd expect as the car has been garaged and its only ten days since I cleaned the pins. It's a bit frustrating as this car was bought for my daughter with two weeks to fettle it but she's collected now and taken it back to her area 100mls away. She is aware the fault may return but I hope it works for at least the month or two before we see her and the car again when I may fit a new module.
  2. >>> remarkable how little corrosion is needed to spoil the operation of some electronic systems And so it has proved. I had a mobile locksmith out the other day to supply and program a new second key which is a story in itself. However when going multiple times to lock/unlock as well as the new remote being erratic the fault as detailed above returned whereby the drivers door needed the key to unlock when the rest of the doors worked OK on remote. I took the door panel off assuming it would be the lock failed mechanically again but turned out to be the pins I'd scraped clean on the door module were again giving a high resistance. Seems once they corrode and you scrape them back you get to an imperfect surface that re-corrodes?? Anyway cleaned the pins again and it's back working. Will price up a new module against a used one that may or may not have pin corrosion.
  3. You need a code reader to see what it flags up... you really can't do much to these cars without a code reader.
  4. The door cards are actually really easy to take off and despite being a tight space the lock assy comes out OK... apart from one thing that I couldn't work out for a while and didn't want to break... the yellow and black plastic clip that holds the door handle rod to the lock assy. Image below for detail. When in place in the door you need to push the yellow tab away from you with a screwdriver and at the same time hook the black bit to rotate towards you. The rod is still slightly gripped but can be flicked out.
  5. One thing kept coming to mind. On the passenger side which was easily fixed with a used lock assy the only code was for the lock... but on the driver's side it showed an additional code for the door module which apparently can happen but caused me to wonder if that module had failed. When doing the loom swap I'd had the plugs out of the door module and all looked OK but I decided to double check. With a bright torch and very close look I noticed three of the pins on the top right socket of the module were more grey than the bright shiny silver of the rest. Scraping these pins with a tiny sharp screwdriver produced fine grey deposits and then switch cleaner brought the pins back to shiny. Plugged in the replacement used lock and it worked straight away... as did the original one I'd overhauled. Cleared the codes and they remained gone. Good result in the end but it was amazing how such a tiny film of discolouration could mess things up so badly. Image of door module.
  6. Annoyingly the new loom didn't make the lock work so I guessed my lock repair hadn't worked well and ordered a 2011 lock from a breakers... but that displayed exactly the same faults and codes. So I wasted ages stripping the two locks I now had... cleaning up the motor commutators... greasing the moving parts and even re-assembling them in various combinations of parts from the two locks mixed together... but still no luck. Images of the locks in various stages of stripdown.
  7. This turned out to be a challenging repair. On the passenger side with not too bad condition wiring in the door shut area I tried the lock motor repair as in the first post video but no improvement so probably either the potted electronics or one of the potted micro switches had failed. A £25 breaker's yard replacement lock of the same part number but from a 2012 car worked immediately it was fitted and I just added extra insulation to the loom in the door shut. On the drivers side the motor repair as in the video worked... for about 10 test lock/unlock cycles then stopped when I found the wiring in the door shut had actually parted. Thought long and hard but wanting this to be a "once and done" repair I forked out the £145 for a new Audi door loom that side. It was very fiddly to feed inside the door around the window slide as I was really wary of straining it. When I pulled the loom plug from the door pillar socket the socket came loose and fell down in the door pillar. So I had to remove the inside footwell trim to push it back in place and the work out exactly how the purple clip worked to hold it back in place. Turned out you pull the purple clip backwards to release the socket from the pillar... which I'd done by accident... and then while holding the socket in place from inside the car slide the purple clip forward to lock it in place again. Images below of the new loom, the purple clip and of the small hole to use a long screwdriver through to hold the socket in place while you re-engage the purple clip. Note the purple clip shouldn't be moved to release the plug from the socket... there is a hidden tab on the front of the socket... you can just reach a finger round and spring that in.
  8. One point worth mentioning. The first time I put the top back as I was easing it down something felt wrong... on taking it back off I saw the central top seal in the filter had been displaced inside such that unfiltered fuel could be drawn up. Next time I watched that the pickup stub had engaged with the seal properly before pushing the top fully home.
  9. Well sorted it. In case it helps anyone in the future... I was a bit worried by the mention in Haynes of driving the pump to bleed with VCDS... and of various places online mentioning the car refusing to start after a filter change and possible pump damage if full of air. My car handbook said to leave the ign on for at least 30sec if you'd run out of fuel and refilled so I decided it was good enough to pre-fill the filter cannister after replacing the element so that as you pushed the top on a little fuel was displaced to be caught by an old cloth driving out 99.9% of the air. Then I did the 30 sec ign on a couple of times and it started immediately after that.
  10. Great decision to have. On a gut feeling I'd lean to the CLA Brake,,, styling hints at the old CLS which I loved.
  11. By chance I have my door card off at the moment so just looked... it's 100% glued. You can see that if you take the silver metal trim off.
  12. Had a look back in the forum but couldn't find the answer. When changing the 2.0Tdi fuel filter element is there a procedure to bleed through or do you just crank in bursts until it fires? Haynes mentions leaving the filter body full of fuel then just starting up... and if you can't do that using VCDS to drive the fuel pump to pressure through and bleed??
  13. Dan I'm new to the forum but have decades of car experience. I agree no point in winding up a seller trying to pre-deal before viewing. If selling I refuse to discuss money until you are in front of me. Also agree re garage servicing... you can't guarantee any... village garage... main dealer.... indy... will do 100%. For example the 130k miles A3 we've just bough has a fully history in the book to 90k yet the pollen filter was choked and the one the car was made with. It's best to ignore any seller's word of mouth claims that this and that has been done... just plan to check and probably do those items. To be honest it's not ideal the guy... as far as I can work out... has had the car well under 6mths and 5k miles. Also his multiple reasons for selling are sounding like typical made up stuff. Magnet is right... never buy a car to try and make a profit after using for a year. Regarding price it's personal to you. There's the car's value which is what it's worth compared to others about at the same time... and then there's its value to you. For example I'll pay a bit more to get a car at right place/right time rather than travelling many miles.... better than losing it for a few pounds to start the hunt again. 113k isn't high mileage really. Our cars have covered 110k, 105k, 130k and 152k. All running perfectly mechanics wise.
  14. Thanks Steve. Yep a bit of work but I'm early retired so looking after the 4 family cars is a bit of a hobby. I enjoy keeping older cars in great condition... my own Mondeo 12yrs old, wife's Mercedes 13yrs, this Audi 12yrs and other daughter 18yrs old Honda.
  15. Will do. I'm fighting the door lock internals at the moment... if that repair works both sides I'll regard it as a saving over replacing with new ones enough to almost justify a new harness.