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Found 154 results

  1. Fitting Rear Parking Sensors to the A3 8V Body. Unimpressed by a quote from the Audi dealer of £600 to fit rear parking sensors to my 2016 A3 I decided to try and fit my own, although at the age of 72 I wasn’t as keen as I might have been a few years earlier. It turned out to be not too bad although I made a few mistakes which meant it took longer than it should have. You can avoid them by reading on. I bought a kit widely available on eBay for £12.99 not expecting too much, but on receipt everything looked fine. I tried it out indoors first up against a wall with a 12v power supply and couldn’t really fault it except that the sensors were black and my bumper is white. I was wary about spray painting them – afraid that the paint might clog up the transducers so did it very gingerly by holding them upside-down and spraying lightly from underneath from as far away as possible so the paint only just reached its target – several light coats rather than one deluge. So, no more dithering about, I had to get down to fitting them. Photos can be found here:- - I thought the fitting of the sensors and routing of the wires would be the tricky part but actually that was quite easy – the electrical connection to the reversing light cable was fiddlier. I tackled the electrics first because if I couldn’t achieve that and had to give up I wouldn’t want four holes left in my bumper. The kit has to power up when reverse is selected so the task is to find which wire to the light clusters is the positive to the reversing light(s). Mistake No 1 (and the stupidest). I removed the left hand light cluster (viewed from the back of the car) to sort out which of the three wires went to the reversing light. Answer – none of them because the reversing lights are on the clusters on the boot lid which is a shame as it makes the job more difficult. The wiring harnesses from the car into the boot-lid can be seen on each side at the top near the hinges, but this is not a place that can be tapped into, I had to get access to the loom further down, to the side of the boot. When the doors into the side panel storage pockets on each side of the boot are removed, the harnesses can be seen but they are near the top and access isn’t good. I wanted to remove the whole trim to the left of the boot but could find no on-line advice on how to do this, and Haynes haven’t got around to writing a manual for the 8V yet it seems. I decided to have a look at the other side and on removing the little door saw that access was better as the loom extended lower into the orifice (always wanted to use that word in a non-biological sense) so I set to work to find which of the 20 or so wires in the loom was the one for the reversing light. There must be one there as there are reversing lights on both sides. Wrong! That was Mistake No 2. My method for locating the correct wire was to stick a pin or sewing needle through the insulation of each one in turn to hit the metal strands inside and see which one had about 12V on it when reverse was selected (with ignition on), and DIDN’T have 12V when reverse was not selected. This requires a couple of crocodile clips and leads and a volt-meter although a 12V bulb would do. One croc clip connects to the needle that you are shoving into the wire and the other to the car chassis (earth). Luckily there are earth points right next to the looms. Having done this to all the wires in the right had loom and drawn a blank I was forced to use the left hand loom where I eventually found the correct wire. On my car it was the green one with a red stripe. It was then a matter of cutting it and using a “chocolate block” to join it again and link in the red wire from the sensor control box power lead. This I found very awkward due to the location but it may have been easier if I wasn’t left handed. I decided to locate the control box in the left hand storage pocket so the wires from the sensors would need to come in at that side of the car. There are two easy routes so no drilling involved. One is via the ventilation escape flap which is at the bottom of the pocket towards the rear of the car and the other is via a hole with a rubber sealing grommet which is probably there for this purpose on models which already have sensors fitted. This is at the bottom of the pocket towards the side of the car behind some packing. I replaced the grommet with a fancy cable gland but this is not really necessary. You could just make a hole in the existing gland which is removable. Before taking the plunge and drilling the holes in the bumper it is necessary to decide where to fit them. Jacking up one side of the car and lying underneath and looking back into the bumper you can see that there are some obstacles which need to be avoided but on the whole it is quite clear and there are even some handy supports that the cable can be laid in. The instructions specify a height of 60 to 80cms but I found this to be too high (they would have been pointing upwards) so fitted them lower at 56cms. I decided that the best locations were 24cms and 66cms each side of the centre line of the bumper (but check this first in case there are variations). I fixed masking tape vertically down over the bumper from the boot catch to mark the centre line and drew a cross on it at the vertical height a wanted the centres of the sensors to be. Then it was a case of measuring left and right to make four more crosses on bits of masking tape where the holes were to be drilled. Good practice dictated that I drill small pilot holes before attacking the bumper with the hole-saw provided with the kit, so I zipped along the bumper with a cordless drill – 1... 2… 3… 4… 5… sh*t! Mistake No 3 (maybe more stupid than the first one). Don’t drill a hole through the centre marker otherwise you will have to block it up with a self- tapping screw and paint it the same colour as the bumper. From here on it is fairly easy although awkward lying under the car and feeding the wiring along the inside of the bumper using the existing brackets etc to hide it behind and maybe the occasional tie-wrap. It doesn’t really matter which order the sensors are plugged in to the control box. I fitted the bleeper onto the top of the control box using the sticky pad provided and find that even though it is inside the storage pocket and masked by the boot tray I can still hear it with the radio on, although if you listen at high volume you might need to locate it elsewhere. It is quite loud. So, very satisfactory. The only minor complaint I have about the kit is that the power wire is rather thin with only a few strands of wire inside. This is all that is needed from the current carrying point of view but it does make it flimsy for connecting up. Tip. You know how when you buy something and a few years down the line it goes wrong and you can’t get replacement parts because the company no longer exists or they have upgraded it and the bits are no longer compatible with what you have got? Well at £12.99 just buy a second kit so you will have a complete set of spare parts.
  2. Hi! Im a new Audi owner having just bought a 2011 A3 cabriolet. I was looking to have some Exterior mods done to it but have been told that as it’s a convertible there’s not much I can do. Does anyone have any ideas please? thank you!
  3. Hi, Does anybody know how I can change the small display (as circled in the attached image) to show me how many miles remaining in my tank. I have tried to press the right stalk but that only resets the trip counter. I have also tried to hold the right stalk and it also resets the trip counter. I have tried pulling the right stalk and that does nothing. At the moment the display is showing me the speed, however I don't know how I got it to show this as previous it was showing ">ne<". Regardless, all I want to know is how to change this display to show me the fuel range. I am driving a 2006 Audi A3 2.0 TDI S Line. It comes with the multi function steering wheel and also the Audi Navigation Plus head unit. Not sure whether I use either of those to change it but if you guys could please help.
  4. Hi all I'm looking into buying an Audi A3/S3 2.0tfsi quattro, 5 door, from around the 2008 mark. I'm planning on tastefully modding and remapping this car and have heard you can reap 310bhp+- from them without any heavy modifications. Looking on auto trader, I've noticed that there seems to be a variation on the power outputs, from what looks to me to be the same engine. So finally, my question is - are the 2.0 tfsi engines in the A3 (200bhp) , A3 - s line (197bhp) , and S3 (263bhp), all the same, meaning they'd produce the same output with a remap? Here are the two I've been looking at: Thanks for your time! Joe
  5. Hello, this is my first post so I hope I’m in the right place in the forums for this. Basically I’m going to be viewing a 2014 Audi s3 with 31k miles on the clock. It’s failed it’s last MOT due to having no catalytic converters, but I’m told a new one is being installed upon my arrival. What sort of issues/common problems should I be looking out for? What sort of questions should I be asking the dealer? (Dealer is independent). Should I be taking out warranty if I do purchase? thanks.
  6. Hello Everyone, I Have a Audi A3 S-Line Black Edition 1.8 TFSI (Petrol), Recently the oil has been burning more than normal, My car's oil light is coming on every 300 miles instead of the usual estimated 1000-1200 miles from Audi.I had the car put on a oil consumption test and it failed at 304 miles before the light came on. Audi are stating to me the only thing they can do is replace the pistons and cams and hope this solves it. unfortunately as you can imagine the cost on this is more than buying a new engine due to the labour costs (estimated 20 hours). Has anyone had an experience with this issue and could be a simple fix (seen something about a choke valve sometimes sticking causing this problem? please help if anyone has any advice!
  7. Hi all just purchased a 2012 S-line Black Edition A3. Anyone found a wireless charging kit that would fit in the storage tray forward of the gear lever? Thanks in advance Dan
  8. Hi all, hope you're all well and keeping safe! I would appreciate if someone could help me with this issue.. So, I went to refill my Air con and there was no any leaks or issues. The compressor works, blower works, fans are working and everything seems perfect. So far I have used the radiator heating and i had no problems, blowing and heating on any settings you like. However, I switched on the air con and still everything works except no air blowing at all, not on any setting - windscreen, legs, dashboard... Computer checked as well and no faults. Thank you in advance for your help!
  9. Does anyone know how to change the stock front grille on an Audi A3 8P 3DR 11” Plate to an aftermarket S3/RS3 front grille. I’ve heard that it’s a right faff around so i’m deciding on whether it’s worth getting it done at a garage or doing it myself. Cheers in advance.
  10. Hi new to this page, I've tried searching round but can't find any page with the same problem. I have a 2008 Audi A3 8P, When I put the window up on the driver side it will go all the way up and then stop because the glass has reached the top but the switch continues to make a clicking noise until i press the button for it to go down lightly. Has anyone fixed this issue before and what was the solution? I'm not sure how the regulator works
  11. Basically my audi a3 2010 black edition mirror not working when I indicator right (drivers side) the light on the mirror not work also the heated mirror not heating and there is no movement in the mirror either but the passenger side mirror is fully functional just wonder what fuses I need to check cant find it in the manual would both mirror be on the same fuse? Maybe I have a faulty connection?if anyone could help would be great thanks
  12. Hey guys, I were driving home from work earlier on when I drove over a nasty hidden pot hole. It went with quite the bang. Just turned my headlights on now and the passengers side dipped beam seems to have dropped leaving a weird line of light in the road as i drive. any advice on how to fix? :) thanks. (I also tried manually adjusting the light with the screwdriver and that did nothing but move it up and down)
  13. Hi guys, I have a 2003 facelift a3 8L with the ARY engine, the engine has been !Removed! since I've had it, got a print out from a rolling road that says 240bhp however it only just beat a 140bhp 2006 Honda civic type s so probably running tops 170bhp. I've got my hands on a BAM engine but I dont have the tools or time to replace it myself, how much roughly will it cost to get it changed at a garage? Obviously this wont be happening until lockdown is over but thought I could start saving now as I'm luckily still working. Thanks in advance.
  14. Hi I've recently bought an a3 (2007) 2.0 TDI sline don't really have a great idea as to what I'm doing when It comes to this told it was best to use a forum and get some help I'm after some coilovers/lowering springs that fit but not a clue where to start looking as I don't want to be paying too much. I'm also unsure as to where would fit them if I did find some. Thanks for your help
  15. What is this code ? Can ı fix it myseif ? Many thanks
  16. Just swapped out my seats in my 13 plate a3 if anyone needs them, I'm based in wakefield WF4 4AB.
  17. I’m planning to remap my Audi A3 2.0 TDI 8P and also at some point install a K&N Induction Kit. I was wondering if anybody could give me advice on whether there’s any benefits of installing these in a particular order? (i.e. remap then induction kit or induction kit then remap)? Or does it even matter at all? thanks in advance.
  18. Hey all, New to the forum, and new to Audi! Picked up a 14 plate A3 2.0 TDi S Line on Saturday in red. I've been eyeing them for a while so decided to take the leap and get one - It's sure a big step up from my 1.4 Corsa! I already know some mods I'd like to get. A certain name keeps popping up; Maxton Design. I saw them displaying at Autosport this year, impressive stand! I've read a lot of negative reviews about them though... Has anyone purchased anything from Maxton Design and had an issue, or no issues at all? I've also been looking at their spoiler extension, but can't tell if it'll 'stick out' too much - if anyone has purchased one of these I'd love to see what it looks like on the A3!
  19. Hello everyone, I have Audi A3 8P 2003 1.6i 102hp, with engine code BGU. Since I've bought car, I've been struggling with some issues regarding car rpm vary while idling. What happens is sometimes, doesn't matter if engine is warm or cold, rpm starts to vary. I do have LPG in my car but everything is fine with LPG system because same thing happens even if car runs on petrol. Now, problem is next: Depending if i run it on LPG (idle is around 600-800 rpm) or petrol (around 800+- rpm), rpm may start to vary. It can happen from time to time in traffic also. If car runs on LPG, rpm can raise to 1000+ rpm and fall down back to 600 or so within a second. Same scenario with petrol, only a bit higher rpms (800 to like 1500+- variation). Worst thing that can happen is after few variations, car simply dies and after next car start, it seems to act "normal". What I've noticed is while idling, that plastic manifold pressure is raising drastically when rpm start to vary. Everything happens within second. I did not realize in what actual moment it happens.. This is video from youtube (not my video), and this person had same problem: AUDI A3 1.6 IDLE PROBLEM!!! REVVING ITSELF Difference between situation from video and my own is that he does have 1.6 FSI while I have more simple version 1.6i and my car does not show any errors codes (on diagnostics) or lights on dashboard (no engine light, epc...), everything seems fine. Cheapest things that I've done so far with no success: I tried to clean my EGR valve, I tried to clean MAP sensor, I tried to clean throttle body None of above helped. Now, before I waste 100 Euros +- on new EGR, I would like to try something else that is cheaper fix, because I'm not sure if it's actual EGR or MAP sensor or something else... Please if you have any suggestion for me what should I try or replace that is a bit cheaper (for start), let me know. I will start from more simple things, then if necessary I will buy more expensive stuff. Thank you for help in advance!
  20. Hi there, I recently purchased an Audi A3 8P Black edition 2010 (facelift model) and wanted to install powerfolding mirrors. I was wondering if anyone has done this modification and has the part number of the folding mirrors as I want to avoid getting the wrong one. Please let me know if you guys know and whether u can recommend anything in performing this modification. Thanks in advance 🙂.
  21. Hi, I've changed my Audi A3 (2013 1.4 TFSI 8V) steering wheel. My issue is that my buttons aren't working. I'm just wondering, is this something I can fix or does it have to be like this? The steering wheel was changed from the Audi A3 normal steering wheel with shield air bag, and all MMI buttons (star, navigation, music up and down, phone) to the 2018 MF flat line S-Line steering wheel. Any help would be much appreciated!
  22. Hello – I am hoping for some help as I am new to Audis and I’ve recently purchased an automatic 2004 A3 S-Line 2.0 diesel with 150,000 miles. The main issue I have when the car is in automatic mode and I am trying to accelerate when I’m already going fairly fast. To add some context to that. I drive on the motorway to get to work and I only really notice the issue during this time. Generally it’ll happen if I’m already in the highest gear and need to overtake or attempt to change lane which requires some level of acceleration. Instead of accelerating, the car just revs but there’s no power. The car does feel like it’s changing gear but it sounds very sporadic. I’m no expert but I understand the kickdown should ensure that the car is in the correct gear to cope with the sudden acceleration? Whatever speed I’m doing at the time doesn’t increase and if I don’t keep my foot flat on the accelerator the car starts to lose power. But by doing so the car is then at maximum revs. Worryingly, it’s not temporary either. I need to stop the car and switch off the engine before it seems to stop. I’ve tried switching the car to manual and using the paddles to change down a gear or 2 but this does nothing. The display shows the gears going down but the engine doesn’t behave in a way that would suggest it’s actually doing anything, it just keeps revving excessively. As I’ve mentioned. The only way to stop it happening is to stop the car completely and turn the engine off. This doesn’t happen every time (thankfully) but as you can imagine, once is enough during rush hour on the M3! I plan to take it to a garage but I wondered if anyone has experience anything like this before and what the potential cause could be. It would be helpful to be armed with some knowledge ahead of any trip the mechanic. This is my first time posting so I hope I've given enough detail on the issue Thanks in advance.
  23. Hi guys recently brought a stage 1 1.9tdi, Having an issue with the steering pulling to the left, so the steering wheel needs to be about 10 degrees to the right to drive straight. Also when I'm driving straight and hit a pot hole the steering wheel remains still but the car pulls to the left and then to the right like the front wheels aren't going in the same direction basically trying to pull me all over the shop, just wondered if anyone has had a similar issue? I was thinking it could be the track rod ends or ball joint but I'm just guessing, any advice would be appreciated as im a first time owner of an A3 8L. Thanks in advance if any of you beautiful people could help
  24. Hi there im new to the forums. I recently purchased an a3 sportback and am looking if anyone can help me find where i can buy these aluminium roof bars. Bt theblooks id say there for decor only as you couldnt attach anything to them really. I think they improve the looks massively so dieing to find some for my car. Any help would be great.