Stevey Y

8 minutes ago, Dale 01 said:

Hi steve 

Ok thanks for the info, I will keep you informed with the progress 

Dale 

Hi would be nice if we can get a positive result for you, I honestly think you are not far off of cracking this one with the help of your friend, tell him to have a look at the live data for the throttle body as this should tell you if its the body or the position sensor.

Steve.

6 hours ago, enc said:

I plan to hardwire my dashcam. 
wondering how the A pillar  trim panel is removed? 

Hi with extreme difficulty, a lot of swearing and possibly new clips, its normally easier to remove the rubber seal down the door panel and poke the wire inside but a lot of cars I have done lately have the strip glued to the metal bead held on with some sort of double sided cloth tape, don't be to afraid of giving the pillar trim some action as if you have the right set of trim removal tools it takes a lot to break it.

Steve.

19 hours ago, Dale 01 said:

Hi Steve

Sorry to bother you again but do you know what this is on the engine that i have circled in blue, it has a pipe from the air filter box and electrical wires coming out the back. 

Thanks 

Dale 

Hi Dale, from memory I think its part of the fuel vapour purge system this collects vapour from the system filters out any bits and re burns the vapour, all part of the wonderful emissions control. I think the reset will prove useful as my neighbour had similar symptoms on his old Polo after he had fitted a new throttle body it ran like a bag of nails until we readapted the new body, in saying that if it still wont run properly it probably is either the body or the position sensor, not much help but at least it will narrow it down, again from memory the position sensor on the peddle is plug in and play as its only a slave unit for the throttle body.

Steve.

48 minutes ago, NMB123 said:

Hi all, I have just purchased a nearly new A3 Sportback with 2,600 on the clock from an Audi dealer. I am surprised by the amount of road noise that I have encountered on a recent 200 mile round trip to the Midlands from London. The car is running on Bridgestone Turanza tyres (18 inch) and the actual tyre noise itself does not seem excessive. However, the vibrations from the road are creating a reverberating droning noise which is present at all speeds but worse at over 60 mph and gets worse the rougher the road surface. 

The noise is present even when the car is in neutral and is coasting, so I do not think it can be the engine or transmission. It is really irritating and is spoiling the enjoyment of what, otherwise, is a very nice car. 

Has anyone else experienced this and is there a cure? Thanks

Hi buy smaller wheels with higher profile tyres, 17inch, thats the main function of pneumatics it subjugates the road noise from the surfaces, unfortunately people only want BIG wheels with lower profile tyres for which there is a penalty, normally extra road noise, anything under a 50 profile will exhibit this problem.

Steve.

23 hours ago, willstevens said:

Thanks Steve

when I kicked back they cut it down to 720 to clean the system. 
just seems so expensive 

I have an Audi extended warranty and apparently it isn’t covered because it’s not broken and just needs cleaning. 
250 per hour to clean - sign me up! 

Hi will that is still eye watering, they are greedy bar stewards, its probably a two hour job and a bit of solvent/carbon cleaner and hot water, Audi extended warranties appear commercially branded Andrex and Cushelle, thats about all they are fit for, yes they are a dream car to own but everyone who buys one should swap their deep rose tinted specs for clear ones to to read the research on the problems these cars have with that system and the cooler its attached to.

Steve.

17 hours ago, scottmckee246 said:

A few months ago my check coolant light came on and I found it to be below low level, topped it up and no issues until it happened a few weeks later this time with engine management light on. Scanned the code and found P268100 Engine coolant bypass valve circuit/open. 

Took it to a specialist who replaced the thermostat housing/water pump, old one was full of coolant in the control side.He rewired it and replaced electrical connections. After putting car back together the fault will not clear and some others have shown up - 
P268100 Engine coolant bypass valve circuit/open.
P218100 cooling system performance 
P011600 coolant temp sensor 1 circuit range/performance. 

Car seems to be driving fine only issues are the stop/start is not working, the engine fans are on almost always and ramping up high at low temps, coolant temp/engine oil temp taking a long time to get to temp - over half an hour driving to read engine temps above 90C. No issues with heating/AC.

Worried the leaking system has caused an issue with the ECU but at my wits end trying to diagnose. Any advice is massively appreciated

Hi sounds like it still has air in it somewhere furthermore what diagnostic platform was used to clear the fault codes as sometimes VCDS is the only way to clear them.

Steve.

22 hours ago, willstevens said:

Hi anyone know what that means? Audi are claiming it’s not under the extended warantee terms  - they state it’s mainly labour and will take 4.3 hours to clean up all the connections - they want 1400.00 

Can anyone pls help cause this seems extremely expensive 

Hi it means the low pressure valve that sits on top of the Low Pressure cooler is probably stuck and covered in a mixture of wet adblue crystals, £1400 is not reasonable for this job, the parts are about £200 aftermarket, when I say aftermarket I mean a VDO unit which is oe at about £160 then the transfer tube and clips and a gasket for the unit is about another £38, my opinion for what its worth is go find a good independent it will work out a hell of a lot cheaper, depending on your milage they might get away with cleaning your old unit, Audi are well aware of this problem on their Diesel engines.

Steve.

6 hours ago, Dale 01 said:

Hi Steve

As promised here are some pictures of my engine. 

Dale

Hi thank you for the pictures, I honestly think that the throttle body has the MAF in it but I am also concerned that the throttle position sensor on the peddle may also be at fault, its only a unit thats like old fashioned hand scales whereby the peddle pulls a spring arrangement within a sealed unit which       pulls an internal resistor past a series of contacts which register the required position of the throttle butterfly to the throttle housing.

Steve.

4 hours ago, alexA said:

  was recommended this.  i also use some other sights they all recommended 0W-20 oil 

Hi if the car is a late 19 that would be the correct grade of oil to use, they started that with the later engines as its something to do with the emissions and the fact that the later engines run a wet belt for the oil pump drive.

Steve.

22 hours ago, Dale 01 said:

Hi Steve

 

I believe this to be the case. 

I have a 2008 1.6 8v a3 sline and have looked for it countless times ive had the pipe off between the filter and the throttle body and there's nothing there, my car is idling badly and i want to change the throttle body but Autodoc Sent the wrong one and also change the MAF if I can find it. 

Thanks Steve

Dale 

Hi from all the parts diagrams I have looked at its right next to the airbox can you post a picture of your airbox and induction pipe its definitely there, the airbox pipework runs to the turbo not the throttle body.

Steve.

32 minutes ago, Dale 01 said:

Hi Jason

 

Haven't got back on here as im still waiting to send the throttle body back to Autodoc.

They have to be the worst company to deal with. 

Whilst im on this subject,  do you know where  or if I have a MAF sensor. 

 

Thanks 

Dale 

Hi all vehicles are fitted with a MAF sensor its on the induction side between the air box and before the turbo normally a cylinder with a plug attracted to it, inside is a coated diode which is heated up and then allowed to be cooled by the incoming air this tells the ECU the temperature of the air as well as humidity, the ECU adjusts the injection accordingly based on the correlation of information from the MAP,MAF, and throttle position sensor on the peddle, all of these items need to be adapted when replaced to maintain synchronicity within the system.

Steve.

14 minutes ago, Bjamesa197 said:

Good evening, i have recently just replaced my egr unit due to the code p403, i have now replaced with a brand new borgwarner unit, was no vw units in stock.

I'm now receiving code p407 circuit low, do i have to adapt the new egr into my ecm? or does it do it automatically, i cant find a pinout for the wiring to test if its the wiring, Honestly so close to getting rid of the car as spares or repairs, its currently listed on eBay but would love to be able to fix it first and sell it as a working car, please any pointers would be greatly appreciated ive run out of ideas.

Hi yes you do have to relearn a new unit, but it would suggest a wiring fault easy enough to check visualy, but if its done loads of miles it might just be better to let it go rather than drive yourself nuts and spend money trying to cure a problem  that solved might only net you another £100.

Steve.

22 minutes ago, Jon Howlett said:

Hi

I have an A5 Sportback 2017. The last few months the Pre-sense fault has been re-occurring frequently and its damn annoying. The fault code is B11CE15 which is the heater open fault.

I have read somewhere about someone going into Longcodeing and switching the heater off to prevent the fault occurring. I have OBDeleven  but never done any longcoding. Anyone here familiar with it? The car is out of any warranty and the price for a replacement camera and calibrating is ridiculous, especially for a system I don't really want. I took it to our local Audi specialist centre who stated it was not something they could do but did inform me there was an update for it outstanding which may solve the problem, but did notice misting in the camera.

Anybody got any suggestions?

Hi these cameras are a pain in the backside, Esther not a menu on the dash that disables it I have it on a new VW I have bought but at least I can turn it off on the dash, apparently they are affected by rod film on the windscreen and getting to hot, might be worth getting the update and the lens's on the unit cleaned.

Steve.

4 hours ago, SteveR83 said:

So have a small update on this for anyone interested.  My local garage did squeeze me in to take a look but unfortunately didn't have time to actually replace the thermostat.  They did agree that it's almost certainly in need of replacing and the cause of the coolant temp not getting to full temp. 

They also ran a scan and confirmed that the fan control module had error codes so the whole unit needed to be replaced.  Think they said the genuine part was about £280 but also said if I wanted to buy non-genuine they would fit for me.  Does anyone have experience of these cheaper radiator fan units?  They any good, or just a false economy?

Also, I am trying to find the exact part number for the fan unit, is there anywhere I can find that online?  There seems to be a few variations of this part depending on year etc/engine etc.

Hi try LLL carparts they have a catalogue online the only bit you will needs your VIN code that should give you the part number, with regard to aftermarket as long as you don't buy Made in China they are generally spot on as Audi don't make the parts they buy them from Valeo or Febi or whoever sells to them at a preferential price.

Steve.

13 minutes ago, FirstG said:

Hi All,

Does anybody know if switching out interior lights to LED's would bring up a canbus error? 

Thanks 

Hi as long as you buy the slightly more expensive error free bulbs its perfectly ok, I don't think your interior bulbs are monitored anyway, could be wrong but if you use error free its not going to be a problem.

Steve.

2 hours ago, beegee said:

Audi a3 can anyone help with this issue nothing works on dash

Hi its probably the instrument cluster going wrong, it will need repairing, contact ECU Testing they are experts at repairing these and its a lot cheaper by a mile than a new unit which will need recoding to the car.

Steve.

3 hours ago, Ricky Moxon said:

Cheers I have tried this already. The break must be further up the loom.

Hi you did not mention if its back or front, my guess is rear as the cables tend to deteriorate behind the arch liner where the loom travels through the body work, joining them wont help as one is live and the other isa voltage pick up.

Steve.

10 hours ago, Howie Lemans a6 c6 said:

  I also have the same vehicle with the headlight intermittently switching off. Is that your problem? Someone mentioned the headlight ballast could be faulty. Could you elaborate on intermittent and have you fixed it and what bulb? Thank you. It may help me.

Hi I am pretty sure your bulbs are D3s which are readily available along with the ballast on eBay for not to much money, not worth changing just the bulb/ballast as if they are the originals they wear as a pair, personally I would do both sides, just done my daughters Q3 which has the same system, bulbs about £70 the pair, ballasts about £30 each and an easy job to do.

Steve.

7 hours ago, Confused said:

Hi everyone 

I'm looking to get both the dpf & egr removed or deleted which ever is better,( I've got error code P2002 plus been advised by Audi specialists my egr cooler has gone & the dpf, well who needs to replace one of those) but looking for somewhere reliable to do the work, any suggestions? I can get it done  round the corner from me but just have a feeling about the company that I just dont trust them. Oh any ideas on how much it will be. 

Thanks for any and all responses 

Hi if you get the DPF/EGR removed or deleted you will be forever getting dash warnings, no one has yet come up with a software that can delete the low pressure cooler which is I suspect the reason you are considering this route, please observe the following, if you remove the main EGR you raise both cylinder head temperatures as well as the turbo temperatures as the gas will be a lot hotter, this will also raise Nox1 emissions which the sensors in the exhaust stream will pick up hence the lights on the dash, I am pretty sure the code you have is p2002 particle filter bank one above threshold, the DPF is not itself blocked just the cooler, I have had a couple of these apart, also try and disseminate between the cooler and the main EGR which rarely gives trouble also might be worth looking at on site cleaning /mobile where they come to you and run cleaning solution through the exhaust system via the sensor hole on the cat.

Steve.

22 hours ago, Mark b7 said:

Hi Steve thankyou for your comment I wasn’t sure if it had the haldex system fitted to my car it’s a Audi A4 allroad 2012 20 tdi .

Hi if its four wheel drive most definitely.

Steve.

20 hours ago, Mark b7 said:

Hello I can’t seem to find information on changing manual gearbox oil if needs it car done 165000 and it’s 2012 model also need information on the Quattro system for me to get it serviced is it just a transmission fluid change .

Hi Mark, the gearbox oil change is easy enough drain plug at the bottom filler on the side, the trick bit is making sure you undo the filler plug first as they tend to be a real sod to get out if you drain it first and then can't get the filler out you are up poo creek, the Haldex is a different matter as you need the kit with the filter and oil, a word to the wise Haldex pumps have a filter screen on the pump so its worth taking it out and cleaning, on replacement put new seals on the entry neck of the pump or it will leak.

Steve.

1 hour ago, Adam2893 said:

Hi, new to the Forums apologies if this has previously been discussed. Does anybody know where you can get replacement inner rings for the air vents? Not the large rings as whenever I search for replacements I just get tonnes of adverts for multicoloured outer rings. The small silver ring that is on the knob in the middle of the vent where you can turn it?

Thank you  

Hi the rings are bonded to the unit, you may be better served going for used units as I should think new prices would buy you a seat on the next space shuttle.

Steve.

5 hours ago, Magnet said:

Apologies for the now understandable confusion in the middle. JasonJ who was a contributor to this thread is no longer with us. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Hi Gareth Jason would of known what was what, everything that could be useless or misleading all available from google.

Steve.

16 hours ago, Bromchild said:

Hi folks,

1st time posting, be gentle 😂

I have a 2002 S6 Avant 4.2, now on 100k

I'm having a mechanic friend do my timing belt. I have belt kit, waterpump, thermostat, aux belt, tensioner, cam locking  bar/kit etc, etc and also the cam seals. I do most things myself but I'm definitely not keen on doing the timing belt myself.

Now, he's trying to tell me the cam seals are a massive job requiring the cam covers etc to be removed to do properly and basically refusing to change them if they're not leaking. I thought it to be good preventative maintenance?

Is it just a case of popping the cam sprockets off (I have the correct pullers) and changing the seals? To to the job correctly the sprockets need to be popped off slightly anyway do they not?

Many thanks 🙂

Hi Eric, I totally agree with your guy, not done the job myself but watched it being done over about eight hours and the next day was the belt change, the rear most cam timing has to be spot on after removing the sprockets, get it wrong and you will end up with 100ks worth of scrap metal, I can see his train of thought, if it aint broke don't fix it, reading between the lines mechanic friend denotes either a favour or a very cheap labour rate, I can understand his reticence.

Steve.

2 hours ago, S-Cronic said:

Very true Steve, the old ZF / Borg Warner Transmissions were pretty much faultless in days gone by, as I say, never had a problem with the units fitted to any of the BMW's I owned and they all did a fair amount of mileage, but once computers and twin clutches got involved it was all down hill from there, as for the FORD Power Shift units they are truly awful ! ... I'm sure you remember the early 70's and 80's Ford C3 and C4 gearbox which again was pretty much bulletproof, then again this was in the days of 3 and 4 speed transmissions, even my 1980's and 90's Audi 100 and A6 Auto boxes gave me no troubles at all, what went wrong ? now Audi have some of the worst reviews and comments online for their Multi-Tronic and S-Tronic gearboxes, and exactly why me and many others are on these forums sharing and trying to get diagnosis information !

But .... I love the A7 as a car, superb quality and pretty luxurious if we're talking interior fit and trim, and great looking cars, the 3.0TDi is a superb engine too if looked after and I'm sure there are owners out there who have not yet had a problem with their S-Tronic gearboxes and would probably wonder what on earth I'm going on about if they read this ( which they won't )

Just as an aside, I've heard it for many years, read untold reviews, and spoken to those I know in the trade who have travelled big distances to have their gearboxes repaired or replaced by them, I'm not in their employ or garnering any favours here when I say they are the absolute tops when it comes to really knowing Audi gearboxes in all guises, not the cheapest but certainly "The Best" if you want it done properly and professionally, the reviews online speak for themselves, MILTA Transmissions of Bristol, formerly Bristol Gearbox Centre I believe ?  and there are bound to be members on here that know of them such is their reputation and knowledge with all things when it comes to Audi Gearbox problems, it's where I will be going if my fault turns out to necessitate ANY internal gearbox work, these units need technicians that "Really" know them, not just guessing or "maybe it will fix it" scenarios. Do it right, do it once ......... Updates to follow as I know more over the coming days and weeks.

PS: Not buying VCDS, I have a friendly technician who lives near me who has multiple free Vin Codes package and is going to do a full read on Friday, but thanks for the heads up on the OBD 11 Pro Steve.      

Hi I only changed over to OBDEleven as I now have a 2021 passat and apparently that is fitted with SFD software which blocks a lot of coding functions to stop people from activating things on the vehicle as you used to be able to do with VCDS,OBDEleven are the only outside diagnostic producers to have an agreement between themselves and VAG, so there software produces a challenge code to VAG main servers and if that code is accepted they issue a token to allow you to perfofm the function, therefore they have a record of every vehicle thats been interfered with which they pass on to the dealerships anytime a trade in reg pops up.

Steve.