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Stevey Y

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Posts posted by Stevey Y

  1. 2 hours ago, DanHemingway said:

    Hi,

     

    has anyone had an issue with getting this nut off?! Tried to swap the arm and this will not budge! 

    IMG_0475.jpeg

    Hi they are always a pain as the water from the washer rots everything try a good soak in plusgas then use a deep socket, other than that its a new motor.

    Steve

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  2. 59 minutes ago, Beach56 said:

    Hi,

    I have a 2013 A8 D4 4.0tfsi and the odometer and trip meter are no longer going up as i drive, the speedo is working fine. Any idea where to look for the issue? i have scanned for codes and nothing showing up.

    Thanks in advance for any help

    Hi probably something failed in the dash pod, only way round is whip it out and send it off for repair.

  3. 4 hours ago, nixonscars said:

    Hi, can anyone help me with my airbag light.

     

    I have an RS5 2010 pre facelift which had wingback seats in. I have changed the front two seats to a mint set of S5 seats as the wingbacks were worn.

     

    I didn't realise but I believe these are facelift seats and the airbag connector didn't fit. I have changed the plug from the wingback seats to the S5 seats, the wingbacks had two wires and the S5 facelift has 3. The 3rd being the brown wire.

     

    I've scanned the Internet for answers on this and the only answers I can find are to hardwire the connections, adding a resistor 2.2 and 4.4 but none of these options have worked and I still have the airbag light on. It's just this airbag light that's the issue. I've cleared the codes after install but it immediately comes back

    Hi I think it will be a case of recoding the new air bags in the new seats from experience a lot of times the airbag control module wont recognise the new bags a way of testing this is to plug the old seats in again and see if the light goes out, I have in the past had to strip seats and put in the old units in the new seats, the resistors wont work because the air bags in the new seats have not gone and are not replying the correct code back to the module, it may well have been better to have just had the worn patches repaired on the old seats.

    Steve.

  4. 36 minutes ago, Francis_G said:

    On a hot engine I have noticed that the rev counter drops to zero for a few seconds, no longer than about 5 seconds then comes back to normal, however the engine note does not search or change from what I can hear.

     

    Has anyone else had this issue?

    I have changed the Detonation sensor to a Bosch as that had a cracked connector.

    Hi may well be a dash pod resistor problem the only way to check is perform a diagnostic scan and see if it throws a code, if it is the dash pod you will have to send it away for testing, guessing on the age of the vehicle it may be something as simple as a dry solder joint.

    Steve.

  5. 4 hours ago, BaronVanRusting said:

    Hi. I'm a Newbie so please forgive any brainless inconsistencies with site protocols

    Does anyone know which fuse I can piggyback from for fitting front and rear dashcams, both of which have parking mode available (need permanent live even with ignition off to activate in the even of car park collision etc) ?

     

    Many thanks to anyone who answers this or offers advice as it's the first time I've owned an Audi (A3 2022) and no, I couldn't find it on any previous posts according to my search.

    Hi for your ignition controlled wire find a fuse thats 10 amps or under the 5 amp auxiliary heater fuse is a good one if its fitted, don't use any 10 amp fuse that guard anything like wipers or electric steering and make sure the piggy back spur has the camera fuse, two and a half amp in the top position, trying to find a permanent live is a nightmare so you may have to resort to running a permanent live from the battery with a fused link and routing it through one of the rubber loom boots on the bulkhead to get the wire into the cabin.

    Steve

  6. 18 minutes ago, Stueymit said:

    I filled the car up today (2011 audi a4 avant quattro) and later on I've noticed a big leak coming from the fuel sender unit to down in front if the rear wheel, the unit was changed recently but I have noticed that there is a third hole on top of the unit? Is this the wrong unit or is there supposed to be a plug in on the spare outlet to cover the hole? Any help would be much appreciated. TIA

    20240426_194016.jpg

    Hi its the sealing ring, most likely they did not change it with the unit problem being that you have to buy the seal separately and they are quite expensive, its either the seal or they have damaged the locking ring that holds the pump in when they re tightened it, the third hole looks like a breather, easiest way to check is get a small length of wire and push it into the hole and see if it bottoms out, if it does its the seal.

    Steve.

    • Like 1
  7. 8 hours ago, ZakHargz said:

    Thanks for replying.
     

    Hmm, that’s an interesting one. 
     

    At present, do you think this can be ignored? Or would you recommend getting it to a mapping company; and allow them to revert and put a better map on it? 

    Hi I would definitely get some body in that line of work to look at it and tell you realtime what's been done, never been a fan of mapping as half the clowns out there have no idea what they are doing or what the long term implications of their work is, are you still getting codes?

    Steve.

    • Like 1
  8. 1 hour ago, Ho55man said:

    I have been getting this error message recently and can't find anywhere anything about it.

    I have spoken to Audi and they say it's probably nothing to worry about but obviously had no idea what it actually means or what is causing it.

    It comes on approx two mins after driving.

    Any idea what this is and how to fix it?

    Hi it is most likely the camera under the windscreen failing they are very sensitive to heat/cold and living with it verses the cost of replacement is a no brainer.

    Steve.

  9. 5 hours ago, ZakHargz said:

    Hey,

    Im wondering if someone could help / give me some advice and guidance on my issue I seem to be having. 
     

    Long story cut short; I’ve picked up a A5 2008 2.7tdi; 145k miles. It was fine and one morning there was a hesitation when setting off. I’ve plugged my code reader in and it’s given me the following code:

    P219500 - O2 signal sensor stuck lean bank 1 sensor 1. 
     

    I’ve done the following to try and resolve this issue:

    - Replaced O2 sensor and done adaptation

    - Replaced MAF and done adaption

    - Smoke test

    - Checked fuel injectors

    Its all coming back fine. 
     

    The car has had a DPF Delete (before my ownership) and feels like it’s been remapped. 
     

    Does anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this problem? 

    Hi could be the delete and remap are causing the problem all airflow and exhaust flows are monitored against each other if the exhaust gas is escaping to fast the the o2 sensor can't read it properly, thinking behind this is all DPF deletes involve physical removal of some or all of the DPF core.

    Steve.

    • Like 1
  10. 2 hours ago, LEE M HOPPO said:

    Hi 👋 all 

    Having trouble the last few weeks with an intermittent fault code 00814 Brake Pressure magnetic coil,  recently changed the brake fluid and full brakes pads & discs ( dot 4) all fine until after 6-7 weeks whilst leaving the supermarket the brakes started locking on , the ABS & ESP light came on as well as "RHL speed sensor fault" so when I got home I ordered the speed sensor as it wasn't recognised on the OBDELEVEN,  anyway I've changed this after 3 days and used the car locally In between and another fault ( 00814) has been logged ?? The ABS & new speed sensor are fine and codes cleared,  I've heard horror stories regarding the brake servo being replaced however its not always solved the problem ?? Its not the bearing and reluctor ring inside as it records the vehicle speed on each wheel , I'm wondering if the brake fluid which was to the top of the cap 🤔 was overfilled at the garage on service and possibly caused damage , however the brake pressure sensor is working as it records 0.64 bar when normal then over 140.00 bar when I depressed the brake pedal ! Any help 🙏??? Please 

    Hi which brand of brake fluid was used when it was changed I have found that you can't just use any DOT4 as this caused quite a few component failures on my car until I settled on Comma ESP4 this is as close as you get to OE without the price tag, even the garage I use has started using what they call the expensive stuff as 2ltres is about the same as what they would have paid for a gallon of the trade stuff, all brake fluid is hydroscopic, [absorbs water] but having done some research it seems the cheaper fluids absorb water faster and the majority of modern car breaking systems rely on fluid viscosity, worth a try?. PS you can't cause damage over filling a brake reservoir.

    Steve.

  11. 2 hours ago, Natasha said:

    Hi my name is Natasha I have a Q7 and I'm helping to learn more and gain new Audi friends

    Hi Natasha and welcome, this forum has a lot of info on Q7 ownership and its pitfalls as well as solutions to those pitfalls.

    Steve.

    • Like 1
  12. 13 hours ago, Rob G said:

    Hi Steve, excuse the daft question. I'm assuming it's the rear view mirror yeah? 

    Hi Rob, yes its the cover thats behind the mirror if you pull it off its under there its attached to the screen by some sort of metal spring holder it also acts as a humidity sensor for the climate control the other problem sensor is the fresh air one which hangs inside the air intake box under the front scuttle where the window wiper is front left as you sit in car, I just used to clean that in alcohol and it would start working again.

    Steve.

  13. 20 hours ago, Rob G said:

    Just checking in to see if anyone has had this issue on their A4

    My 67 plate 2.0TDI 190 Avant has had this issue with climate more or less since I got it last July. Lost my job in October so I have lived with the problem through the winter, but I’m addressing it now as we (hopefully) get some warmer weather. 
     

    The temperature can alter (either hot or cold) without me changing the temp on the dial. My garage have diagnosed the fault and have suggested it’s down to one of three sensors as the OBD is showing interior temp as much as 10 degrees higher than the actual figure. 
     

    The car is still under warranty so I’ll get the work paid for, but the problem is that I’ll be saddled with the labour costs of the garage to find out which sensor of the three is causing the problem. If I’m lucky, it will be the first one they check, but if it’s the third they’re estimating circa £450 of labour of which I might get a third back from the warranty company. 
     

    It would be good to hear from anyone who has experienced the same, so I can give the garage the heads up and try to save some cash.

    TIA 

    Hi Rob I had the same issue with my A6 when I first got it it turned out to be the sensor under the cowling under the mirror, apparently its a common problem, its a bit of a faff to get to but doable its just a plastic disc with wires.

    Steve.

  14. 25 minutes ago, Steve Q said:

    Thanks Steve, think I'm looking at the last of the line bau version. I've found this refurbished one in Germany, and I've messaged them with a few questions regarding the turbo etc. 

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325748688740?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=e8AMuhJ3R76&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=IE07kO4STZy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=WHATS_APP

    Hi Steve that looks the better option, ask for a comprehensive list of what's been refurbished, yes its a lot more money but it will at least give you a solid platform to build on.

    Steve.

  15. 1 hour ago, Andy Collis said:

    Hi,

    I went to Audi Birmingham for a service and asked about a second key fob for my keyless ignition and was told it was £500 ..

     

    Is there any way I can get another key fob programmed for my Audi please..?

    Hi Andy unfortunately not, Audi have all the codes for every model from 2011 up and wont supply that information to any outside key suppliers, its not like the old days when you got a dummy key and just coded the new transducer in that key via the ignition.

    Steve.

    • Like 1
  16. 8 hours ago, themosmp said:

    I am the owner of one A4 Allroad b8 2016. the rear wiper has entered the service position and does not return to its normal position. from the car menu there is an option to place the wipers in the service position but it only works for the front ones. does anyone know how I can restore it ?Thanks in advance

    audi 1.jpg

    Hi thats not the service position thats the motor knackered, they don't have a service position, this is a well known problem as its a bad design a percentage of water gets past the spindle seal and terminates the motor.

    Steve.

    • Like 1
  17. 21 hours ago, Steve Q said:

    Thanks Steve. It's just so confusing when those on A6 C5 Facebook groups give mixed information. 

    I did find this engine which I'm debating to take a pint on. It turns freely but has no history. 

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386915243941?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iasddtvhsyq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=IE07kO4STZy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=WHATS_APP 

    If this is a genuine option then I wonder where a later bau or Ake engine (both 180bhp) would be a better option as they'll be detuned due to my ECU. 

    Hi Steve, I personally would not go anywhere near that one it looks like cheap trouble until you get the bill for the rebuild, go for a later engine thats got some history and runs, not some vague statement that it did and then spent an indeterminate time in storage, no milage, I think he wants to go to the pub on someones £80, I have made the same mistake in the past especially when driven by desperation, take your time send your cash wisely and make sure what goes in at least works.

    Steve

    • Like 1
  18. 3 hours ago, Steve Q said:

    Hello all, my mechanic believes that if I keep my ECU and injectors and put it in a 2.5tdi that has different engine code then the car should work fine as the imobiliser/ECU will think it's the old engine. 

     

    I know the Ake and bau are different heads but would the 150bhp and 163bhp engines have the similar design to aym. As such would this work just adding my ECU and injectors to the different engine code. Then I wouldn't needs to code the pump ect. 

    Would it also work for bau or Ake even though heads are different? 

    Just want full clarity before I buy any engine as I'm still under the impression the injection pump, instrument cluster and ECU have to match. 

    I'm tearing my hair out now as I just want the A6 back running so any help will be appreciated. 

    Hi Steve your mechanic is correct, due to Audis practise of using the same engine but putting different emissions gear on them and giving the engine a different designation you are almost certain to be successful as the basic block will be the same as will the heads, if you look at the engines for my A6 CNHA most of the parts were common to the DETA,DDDA,same engine different horsepower which is controlled by the ECU, ergo unless the engine has a mind of its own it will wait for the ECU to tell it what to do.

    Steve.

  19. 2 hours ago, Amar said:

    Hello all I have very strange problem with my Audi a3 1.6tdi it starts up fine in the morning but randomly cuts out this could be after 5 mins or sometimes even up to an hour later weather it’s sat idle or driving so when the cuts out it’s like all the dashboard goes blank no lights I have power to windows still and when you turn the key fully back to position 1 and to ignition again the dashboard still has no lights until you do this couple times when dash lights do come back on and try starting it won’t turn over you have to wait for 5-10 mins then eventually it will turn over and start again.

    so please anyone else that has encountered similar issue and found out what is I would like to hear from you thanks all

    Hi I would get it scanned for fault codes, it may be an immobiliser problem.

    Steve.

  20. On 4/17/2024 at 12:52 PM, Cookle said:

    Hello Steve, 

     

    I have found out that the throttle body is losing power so having to take it in to the Audi specialist to fixed this.

     

     

    Hi sorry to hear of your woes, I would definitely look at OBD eleven it will give you better scope to at least identify your problems and as code readers go its cheap.

    Steve.

  21. 1 minute ago, futtret said:

    Thanks for that. 

    Can this be done using VCDS and if so, do you happen to know a rough stepbystep process - I'm going to pass this onto my garage in case they are unaware - I'm not a user of VCDS myself.

    My sensor has been changed and still getting the same fault code, so worth a try, thanks

     

    Hi yes it can be done with VCDS you have to go into basic settings and scroll through the menu it will have a box for re adaptation for your sensor, might be nice if you can tell us which one was changed?

  22. 6 hours ago, Cookle said:

    Hello,

    First time poster here, I’ve had my Audi A3 V8 for two years now (66plate) it’s been perfect but the last week a few faults have occurred and my EPC light is on on the dash board.

    First fault code - B105313 - GSM Antenna Open circuit.

    i have no idea what this is or means, could anyone give any advice?

    Second fault code - U11B800 - Interface for external media - no communication.

    if I am thinking right this means the USB ports in the car, I have no idea why this has just suddenly stopped working as I have never used them, I don’t even use the media, I just listen to the radio so this has stumped me.

    My check engine light has come on as well (Yellow version)

    I understand this was down to having low oil in the car but I got it serviced this morning and I am still having the issue, I have no power when driving and the revs are taking ages to catch up. The fault reader isn’t showing any codes for this which I am confused about.

    Has anybody had these issue before that could lead me in the right direction,

    Thank you for your help.

    Brad

    image.jpg

    Hi I am thinking water has ingress under the antenna on the roof as for the fault codes for the rest of the car most of these are better read by VCDS, obd eleven or similar,

    Steve

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