Stevey Y

1 hour ago, aaronperry94 said:

Anyone ever experienced the noise in the attached video? Sounds like it comes from alternator area, however just had a brand new alternator and pulley fitted and the noise persists. 

noise only occurs when under load accelerating or revving. If driving, the noise disappears with the clutch in or coasting. 

video: https://imgur.com/a/tbGvlgu

 

Hi could be the belt tensioner bearing or any idler pulley bearing in the circuit, did you have the alternator drive belt changed with the alternator, chances are if the noise was there before the new parts were fitted its one of the above, if it started after fitting it might be the alternator clutch [not unknown] depending on the brand of replacement unit.

Steve.

3 hours ago, murs1 said:

Hello!

Our beloved A4 TDI 2015 reminded of her age and is displaying the not-so-pleasant adblue error with no restart in 1000km.

Had the fault codes read and it's pointing to a faulting control board. I took a look under the car to try find the board, and also looked everywhere online to find out where the board module is located but simply haven't been able to find out about it. Apparently it's a different to B9.

Anyone able to point me where to look?

 

Hi have you tried resetting the level on diagnostic equipment, only suggest that as what you have posted leans towards that, absent any code numbers its the only conclusion that can be drawn from the information supplied, the board is housed under the tank and can't be replaced as far as I am aware.

Steve.

7 minutes ago, Mar4ix said:

I wonder is there any wiring and buttons to convert non button steering wheel ? 

Hi if you are swapping to a buttoned wheel from non buttoned you will need the donor wheel and associated wiring loom and possibly another body control module which will leave it needing to be coded in to the new BCM to get it to work.

Steve.

5 hours ago, Puffin said:

The plastic dome circled top left. Assumed it was a light. 

Hi more likely to be a sensor for the climate control.

1 hour ago, donny said:

 

Hi could be an earthing problem on that circuit for the bulbs or a corroded wire on the pin blocks worth checking the connectors, may be as simple as hosing them down with electric contact cleaner then check the lives and earths with a multimeter.

Steve.

4 hours ago, ZerosGiven said:

Appreciate the offer, thanks. Do you think there will be much of an issue? Have you spaced a car previously?

Hi Duncan did you actually read the posted reply properly, the guy was offering you alternative means of insurance should your company decline to insure you with the spacers fitted, why dont you ask your existing insurance company if they will accept this modification before going ahead and running in to a wall when they wont do it, most insurance companies view these types of modification very suspiciously as they may well unsettle the cars steering and suspension geometry, each insurance company has its own team of mechanical engineers who assess the possible impact of such changes, you seem to be adamant that you will do this anyway but you have not had the answer you wanted, just sound basic advice which you dont seem to want or pay any attention to, I wish you luck.

Steve.

1 hour ago, Lacey86 said:

Thanks Steve, did you pay to get yours fixed before you sold it? I've just the quote in from the garage, £3620!! Is that normal for P2002 and P20E8 fault codes??

Hi I did get it fixed but I never got the chance to sell it as it rolled off of my local garage forecourt into the brick wall across the road, electro mechanical handbrake failure caused by a voltage drop on the battery which is another favourite trick of the cars from 2014-2017, no the price you have been quoted is not normal as I never paid more than £1600 for the cooler unit to be replaced bearing in mind you could only get the parts from Audi at around £700, now you can get aftermarket parts around £450, my advice would be to get the adblue mapped out and then the cooler fixed as cheaply as possible then get rid of it ASAP, beautifully made car body wise and a joy to drive BUT parts are ruinous price wise and as mine was used as a cab frequent, got a Passat estate now not as glamorous but is as nice to drive and any parts are about a third of the price.

Steve.

3 minutes ago, Beany1 said:

Is the throttle body side of hose suppose to be bit loose where the clip fits on or is it suppose to be tight with no gap 

Hi tight with no gaps.

6 hours ago, Lacey86 said:

Hi all, I just got my car back from the garage as engine light was on and got fault codes P2002 & P20E8. Technician notes say, after further test, they think the EGR cooler is likely blocked and Ad Blue pump has failed as no signs its engaging when initiated. As I drove away the DPF 650miles light came on, which wasn't on before. Not sure why.

Anyway, they're putting a quote together but the lad on reception reckons at least £2500, which I don't have right now. 

I'm looking into other options and notice a lot of people online seem to overwhelmingly steer towards a delete and gut the DPF which they all seem to say saves a ton of money, makes the car run better, is way more fuel efficient with no issues at MOT (if certain parts left in) and no warnings on the dash. After reading I see this technically makes the car not road legal.

My concern is I really don't want to devalue the car. It's the best car I ever owned, has pretty much all the added packs including tech pack, Virtual Cockpit, Bose Sound System, upgraded suspension amongst others. The mileage is only 75k and according to AutoTrader is worth about 11k.

If I delete the EGR, DPF and AdBlue am I risking never being able to sell the car again? 

Is there any other option than paying £2.5k or deleting? I've seen someone online say you can try an exhaust system flush and cleaning service. Has anyone tried this and it fixed the fault codes? 

I'm not daft but I'm also definitely not mechanically minded so please be kind ha. 

It's worth noting that I have never modified the car in anyway, no re mapping or anything. I just use it to get from A - B and want it to be in the best condition possible.

A4 2.0 TDI 190 S Line 66 plate

Cheers

Hi the exhaust system flush will not cure your problem, deleting the adblue may well solve that problem, the only way to cure P2002 is to replace the cooler and valve unfortunately I did it three times on my A6, its an inherent design fault which is like a disease without any real cure, if you listen to some of the waffle about delete this delete that its all wonderful which is why I sold the car a few months later.

Steve.

3 hours ago, Beany1 said:

Audi a4 b7 2.0 tdi does anyone know part number for the hose going to the throttle body thanks 

Hi the part number is on the hose, alternatively go on line there must be the worlds supply of silicone replacements.

2 hours ago, joeblo said:

Hoping for some help with my B7 avant 2007 2.0 tdi 140

My airbag light is on & code:

01217 side airbag ignighter drivers side (n129) upper limit reached

Has shown on scan. I've read its usually the seat but the seat connector has been bypassed & there's a resistor wired in there (previous keeper) I've stripped the door pillar looking for the side airbag igniter but it's not there does anyone have ant idea where it could be? Thanks all 

Hi its most likely the resistor that is the problem, most idiots put these things in rather than repair the offending module, this just leads to problems as when the resistor fails [chinese cr@p] it throws the whole baby out with the bath water, I think you will find the igniter is integrated in to the end of the airbag, the tragic consequences of such bodges is the airbags fail to deploy in a collision and just promote more serious injury, best policy is to engage an auto electrician which may engender some new parts as well.

Steve.

25 minutes ago, Mr G said:

I think mine are standard LED.

Hi your headlights are HID I think you will find that they are fitted with D5S bulbs and for reasons only known  only to type approval in Germany they do not qualify for washers even though they throw out an equivalent amount of light to the old D3S equipped units, which needed washers, D5S units use a lot less voltage than D3S/D1S bulbs therefore are considered a greener alternative as they extend battery/alternator life, also D5S  will not burn the reflector bowls unlike the above mentioned and they also have an integral ballast unit built in to the bulb housing so no more guessing if its the bulb or the separate ballast that was fitted to D3S/D1S.

Steve.

3 hours ago, ETHel said:

I need to take the steering wheel off my car so airbag disconnect. I read that throttle learning will or may need to be done afterwards. 

What are your thoughts please....

Hi I can't see that one myself as you would have to do that every time you changed the battery as far as I know the throttle data is stored in the ECU and only changes when you fit a new throttle valve therefore the values have to be reset as the new one will move the butterfly a lot more easily than the old clogged unit.

Steve.

Quote

 

5 minutes ago, Fuxen said:

Hey Steve, thank you for feedback.

is it possible that new pulley is making these noises? Or it needs more tightening?

yeah, tyres going to trash bin on sunday. Thanks about shock absorber also, will take a look

Hi could be the pulley but I doubt it unless you bought a real cheap one, sounds more like a belt tensioner or one of the idler pulleys. With regard to the shocks replace both as the new shock normally finishes off the old one plus it will make it turn and ride better.

Steve.

10 hours ago, Fuxen said:

Hey Cliff, thanks for a reply,

For example here, is the engine sound in the morning https://imgur.com/a/TPzDtr4
You can definetely hear the sssss louder when the engine is warm (first video I posted)

 

Hi can hear a slight hissing which seems more like a belt idler pulley, the things I would be more worried by are the perishing on the tyre and the leaking shock absorber.

Steve.

6 minutes ago, Ravs88 said:

Thanks, cloffcoggin. The expansion tank I took out also had it and labelled as VW/Audi, so looks like the original bottle. This also has the bag.

The one I replaced it with is febi bilstein and also has it. I replaced the tank in the end as mine was leaking and and looked in dire state.

Seems all of them have them and after looking online, no way to remove it

 

Hi I know some aftermarket tanks are sold with no bag which is the selling point, it depends on the shape of the tank if its round you can't remove it as it sits behind a second skin inside the tank, if its square you can fish it out with a pair of extra long needle nosed pliers.

Steve.

On 3/25/2025 at 10:21 AM, emazing10 said:

Independant has quoted me 1600 for just the parts 

Sachs 2.0 TDi Dual Mass Flywheel and Clutch Kit

Fits Audi B8 Platform 2.0 TDI 6 Speed Vehicles from Clutch stop is £475 plus Vat a saving of over a 1k is it worth buying ?

Hi Sachs or LUK.

7 hours ago, ZerosGiven said:

Hi there,

I’m looking to slightly space out the wheels (around 10mm) and lower the suspension by approximately 20mm. Has anyone done this before? If so, do you have any advice on the best products or brands for these upgrades?

I don’t want to go overboard, just a subtle adjustment to improve the look and feel. My budget isn’t huge, so any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

Hi my advice would be to leave well alone, the type of modifications you suggest may well throw the suspension geometry way out therefore taking it beyond any adjustment that currently exists naturally on the original set up, it is doable but will involve some serious spending as you will have altered the offset of the wheels massively with your current wheels being designed for that specific car.

Steve.

11 minutes ago, CHRI1111 said:

Hi, it made no noises at all. I would have stopped for sure otherwise. Seemed to run fine just with the oil pressure light on which led me to suspect faulty sensor at the time.

Il take the caps off and take a look as was going to drop the sump anyway for the oil pump.

I suppose what's still unclear in my mind is whether the piston rings are likely toast based on the compression readings previously given. The readings vary between 10 and 11 with exception to Cylinder 4 which is between 9 and 10. Can I get away with such readings for MOT purposes? Sorry, bit confusing as the compression readings are in another recent thread.

Chris

Hi the compression readings should be between 140 and 175psi with no more than 10% variation between each cylinder, if its running rough I would seriously get it plugged in to see what else is wrong before throwing any money at it, dont get it done on a mates cheap code reader thats suicidal it either wont pick up true faults or pick up generic codes that dont relate to anything.

Steve.

2 hours ago, CHRI1111 said:

ThanksGareth, I've give it a go.

What's your view on the compression numbers? Low but not terrible...?

Are there any oil pump brands I should stay well away from? I want a budget option but not one that will break next week...

Ridex, stark automotive, magneti marelli, engitech, NTY, Freccia, JPN, Vaico, FAI Autoparts, JapKo, Ashika, Febi Bilstein, PartsTec, Swag, ET EngineTeam?

Any of those?

Genuine part is £250 which I can't justify on a car with 150K miles and 18 years old.

Chris

Hi you say the compression figures were low, as in how much lower than the figure quoted for ideal?, most oil pressure systems put on the light when the pressure drops to 4psi if it sinks any lower you will hear the big ends knocking, either way it wont do it any favours as Gareth said driving it like that, rather than lashing out on a new oil pump it will be better to drop the sump and remove the the caps on the crank one at a time and check that the big end shells are not scored or excessively worn if you do the first one and they are scored or the crank journal has scores dont bother with rest of them as you can guarantee the rest are the same or worse, in this case either get a refurbished engine or have your unit reconditioned with a new oil pump, personally I never use anything other than O.E. pumps and if you use reverse logic, if the original pump has managed 150k there is no reason why it wont do it again.

Steve.

4 hours ago, Shaun2097 said:

My EGR cooler needs replacing on my 2017 A5, other than a genuine Audi one, can anyone recommend another make? Thanks in advance.

Hi go on eBay there is a guy on there doing refurbed units with the valve for about £200, other than that you can buy an aftermarket cooler for around £300 and then the valve for about another £180, the refurb units are all genuine and a mate of mine bought one for his Skoda and to be honest you can't tell the difference except the price and they are all genuine VAG units, I think the company is called aft and has no bad feedback.

Steve.

3 hours ago, Megabart said:

Hello guys. 

I have problem with auto cruise control unit. It intermittently stop working and now completely died. I found that 1 of the pins were corroded and felt off. I almost sure that this is the problem and if I replace it will go back to life. I have a problem to find replacement as the part number is unreadable. Can anybody tell me the part number or where to buy. I only need that little port. Thanks in advance 

 

 

Hi go on LLL carparts online and put in your VIN number, its an online parts store that should give you an exploded diagram with the part number, judging by the last picture I think it will probably be sold as a whole unit in which case you might be better served going second hand the whole unit number is under the Bosch logo in the last picture looks like 561 b?.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Borat said:

Hi, my 2008 q7 3.0 tdi will no longer get to full temp on the guage. It will go to about 50 and sometimes 90 after a long time but if i stop then next drive will just stick at 50-60 and refuses to goto normal 90.

Garage has replaced thermostat and water pump but they say it still it wont warm up. Is there something they have missed as it never overheats just runs cool all the time.

Please help 🙂

 

Hi I think you have an airlock get the system re bled, other than that flush the whole system there something causing the lack of flow, if its auto check the thermostat for the gearbox oil cooler.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Meeko said:

Hi all, hoping someone can help - the headlight washers on my 2010 A3 Sportback 1.8TFSI have stopped working. I've checked the fuse (F32) and can also hear a relay trigger every 5th activation of the wipers (with headlights on). When the relay clicks on / off , voltage can briefly be seen at the headlight washer pump.

It would appear that the relay isn't staying on long enough to activate the washer pump. Does anyone have any ideas what might be at fault?

Hi its most likely a dodgy relay, just had it on my daughters Q3, changed the relay all good.

Steve.

19 hours ago, Vorlockfoss said:

Hi Stevey Y,

Thanks for your response.

Indeed, I'm sure I did, but I believe I only changed the last digit & not the last 3.  I've now learned that about the serial number, so that will come in handy.  🙂

I don't believe you can on my A4 B8 as it's non-UDS.  You can only enter 10 or 11 digit part number, 1 or 2 spaces, the battery manufacturer, 1 space and then the 10 digit serial number.

Yes, me too, but every battery supplier, aside from Tanya, suggested a 70Ah 760A battery, so I went by popular suggestion.  As I said to cliffcoggin above, it wasn't until my engine continued to fail to start after I'd installed the A7 battery that I looked further into the suggestion of using the cars 'starter battery', which I learned was a 92Ah 520A.  This is when I posted as above.

Apologies, I should have clarified that I changed the pump in the tank around 3 years ago, less than 12k miles ago, for a new Bosch pump, so that shouldn't be an issue.  I haven't physically tested it, which I will do tomorrow, but it's making all the right noises, at all of the right times and instances.  There is a simple way to test the flow of that low pressure pump, by disconnecting from the HPFP and adding a plastic 500ml bottle; it should reach around 1/3 full when opening the door and after emptying, it should reach a little under 2/3 full when pressing the key.  So watch this space on that.

Thanks again,

Paul.

Hi even if your vehicle is non UDS that wont affect the coding of the battery as non UDS just means that it mainly concentrates on monitoring emissions equipment, EGR, fuelling and ignition/injection protocols, full UDS was developed to encompass recoding of components all over the car as well as fault finding and code clearance.

Steve.