Stevey Y

4 hours ago, Laurentiu said:

Is for diesel engine? 

Hi yes Diesel engine, all the 2.0 litre models around that time CNHA,DETA etc. are fitted with them, allegedly they should last 100k but I have first hand knowledge of some that have gone at 30k.

Steve.

10 minutes ago, Weeder said:

Gareth

Thanks for your time and advice, very helpful. When it gets worse I will arrange a new battery.

Mike

Hi if you go to Halfords and buy a battery they also have the facilities to re code it to the car, come to that most high end independents can do exactly the same as now most of them have the new kit out that pairs any battery with any car, I did my mates BMW with an Autel unit we borrowed from a garage 900yds from where he lives.

Steve.

27 minutes ago, seang7000 said:

I have recently had a light come on my dashboard and taken my car into audi where I was informed that I need a low pressure egr valve. I am just looking for any advice about where I can get this done other than audi. 

Or is it worth paying the extra money and having the work done at audi ??

Hi its been a running battle with these things they are a disgrace mine went last year and Audi wanted £1700 to do it, they only sell the part with the new valve attached £700 or there about, see if you can find a VAG specialist to give you a quote, an oe part with the valve is on eBay at the moment for around £500, the part number is 04L 512 For the cooler and 04L 131 501 B for the valve.

Steve.

7 hours ago, jdragon said:

By my estimation I'm a couple of K miles away from needing to fill up the AdBlue tank.

I'm almost certain it has the 24 litre tank.

Where do you guys buy your AdBlue from? These seem like fairly common:

Carlube AdBlue 10L with spout : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Redex Adblue with Easy Pour Spout, Suitable for All Makes and Models, ISO22241 Compliant, 10 Litre : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Has anyone used a pump instead of the containers?

Hi about the best two are YARA from Halfords or Redex, cheaper at Tool station, the Yara is the best and Halfords are doing a deal at the moment three 3.5 litre pouches for £18.99.

Steve.

4 hours ago, mlj76 said:

This is the one I mean!! I can’t find its name anywhere!!

Female torx socket loads on eBay, female because the bolt is male.

Steve.

3 hours ago, Sheffield Col said:

Just got myself a nice A3 with 1.6 diesel engine. What problems if any will I run into with this engine. Thanks. 

Hi none really just the usual wear and tear items brakes, battery, servicing, occasional addition of a DPF cleaner in with the fuel should keep it nice and clean if you do a lot of short journeys and don't buy supermarket fuel as it kills the engine in record time.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Jbris said:

Hi all, 

did you find the cause of the issue? Experiencing it now. I’ve replaced the throttle valve but I still have the same concern.

 

Hi unless you have a code for a blocked EGR leave that bit alone as explained in previous post its not a diy job and needs a comprehensive strip down, the only reason for no end result to this problem is that like a lot of the new members the poster finds the info they need and never return.

Steve.                           

3 hours ago, gsmdo said:

You didn't specify what product from the link you thought would be the solution to your problem.

 

Also - lighten up, why don't you?🙄

Hi Mike we all have had a good laugh about some posts you have made, most memorable is your parcel being left between your buns, brings light relief to a serious or not post.

3 hours ago, Rusty2023 said:

Hi. I live in Scotland and I would like to retro fit cruise control to my 2014 A3 convertible. Any suggestions would be appropriated.

Hi you would need the wiring loom from the same model, new switchgear with the apropriate switches possibly a steering squab and body control module, then you have to have the means to code it all, then you need loads of hours to do it, personally I would buy bigger right hand boots its cheaper LOL.

Steve.

35 minutes ago, pinhead62 said:

Hi all new to the  site just a quick ask I've bought a 2008 B7 A4 cabriolet 2.0l tfsi the 197hp engine I've read alot about using super unleaded fuel (shell v power) as the engine runs better wondering what you guys use thanks in advance

Hi Vpower is excellent but expensive Shell/Esso standard fuel is good when used with an octane booster and is cheaper, don't go anywhere near E10 as on older cars its toxic !Removed!.

Steve.

6 hours ago, PJ1981 said:

Hi evereyone. Is there anyone out there who can help me? I have an A4 B8 TDi 170 (CAHA). Had the car for just over a year, doing the usual maintenance etc. No real issues.

Couple of weeks ago I was driving the car (About 10 minutes from cold), when suddenly there was a lot of what I'm sure was blue smoke coming from the exhaust. I pulled into a layby and got out. Even at engine idle there was smoke from the exhaust. Switched off and went and had a coffee considering the options for the car... Nose dive into a quarry, swim in the lake, or even leaving the car on the drive to rot away to nothing. Drove home... After searching the internet, I find that there is very little info on this. One theory is the PCV, crankcase ventilation. So i went out to the car, started it up (Cold). Hey presto, no smoke! Took the oil filler cap off and sure enough it's chuffing out crankcase pressure. Took the pipe off that goes from the valve cover breather to the air filter/turbo and lo and behold there's oil in there. It's obviously finding its way into the turbo. I find it strange that from cold there's no smoke, but after a little while it smokes. I'm assuming that it takes a clittle while for the pressure to build up and then force oil into the breather outlet. 

So here's the thing. Would I be wise to invest in a new cam/head cover which comes complete with new breather etc? Or am I wasting my time and scrap the car? Other than this, there is no loss of power, engine runs smoothly and no noises not previously heard.

Anyone out there had a similar experience who can shed some light on this issue?

Thanks, and have a great day!

Hi if you take the breather hose off of the PCV valve there is always going to be oil but you should get a flow of air/gas as well as the oil it does it the minute you start the engine the residual oil you noticed was originally vapour, it won't do it from cold as there is no hot vaporised oil to suck out, I think you are safe to assume its the PCV collapsed as its only a piece of rubber inside the unit which either splits or goes rock hard and won't channel the gas out of the crankcase therefore the gas is forced past the rings in to the combustion chamber, presto, blue smoke.

Steve.

4 hours ago, tommyboy40 said:

Hi All, I did a search before posting but came up with nothing. I had my mot today and although the car passed, the parking brake performance was poor at 21%. There's an imbalance of 43%. Anyone got a guide to adjustment?

Thanks in advance

Hi there is no manual adjustment, don't know the condition of discs and pads but changing them helps if worn other than that if its a manual hand brake there is normally an adjustment on the lever inside the car but if you have to start winding that up it means the cables have stretched beyond their service length and need replacing if you adjust it overly the cables break.

Steve.

2 hours ago, Mario T said:

Hi There,

I've just bought a new xtron radio but before I change it could I check whether there is a radio code required from the original radio.? I know on my Skoda providing I fit the radio that came with the car there isn't.???

If there is code can I get this from VCDS before I swap it out.?.?

 

Thankyou

Hi if its an aftermarket radio I don't think coding will be required as it works independently of the original system and has no affiliation with the BCM and probably has a can bus shunt in it  so any cars system will accept it, but the code for the original will be on VCDS so just make a copy of it as plan B.

Steve.

4 hours ago, ChipperA6 said:

Hi All, 

Not sure if anyone else has had this issue but I have just purchased a used A6 diesel (2020) and my mpg are shockingly low. My drive to work is 2 miles side roads and 33 miles motorway. My last A6 diesel (2017) used to do the journey with between 55/65mpg depending on how I drive, the new A6 is struggling to do 45/50mpg. both cars are 2.0lt engines, the first was 190bhp and the latest is 204bhp. 

I also have an Audi TT petrol (2021) 2.0ltr 245bhp and driving the same way I can get between 35/40mpg. working on the difference in fuel cost, it actually works out cheaper to take my TT to work?

Is anyone else seen this issue?

Thanks

Hi its probably that the newer car is euro six + 2 and thats where the extra horsepower comes from, more fuel and air, just a theory.

Steve.

8 hours ago, Debie said:

Hello. I need a little advice about my Q3. I had a diagnostic for the engine light last week. On Friday they changed a glow plug to fix that. Yesterday, while I was driving the glow plug light started flashing, then the engine light came on again. I pulled over, turned the car off. Turned it back on and both lights still on. 

Any idea what this might be? And if I can drive the car while I wait for the appointment again (in a week and a half)? 

Hi both lights are emission related if they are both orange its just warning you of a fault, its when they are RED its time to worry.

Steve.

5 minutes ago, cursor-delta0g said:

Cheers, no indication whether they are front or rear, ? Need to be replaced in pairs, or does it makes sense whole set front and back? Costs? 

Hi no visually check the pads, if the backing plate is about 4mm from the discs they are knackered, there are loads of options on eBay as long as they are marked E11/E9 they are O.E. standard, its worth paying the extra couple of quid for the ones that come with the wear sensor.

Steve.

22 hours ago, Magnet said:

One other question Dan - why did the arm snap? You would be wise to check all moving parts are indeed moving freely on all sensors, otherwise you may find yourself in the same situation with another one. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

The arms are some sort of cast ABS plastic which deteriorates with age and weather.

1 hour ago, ALs1979 said:

Hi has anyone upgraded their washer jets looking to get heated ones

Hi think you may well find that you already have them, remove the plastic mounting plate on the jet and the wiring should be on the side.

Steve.

6 hours ago, cursor-delta0g said:

Check brake pads - MIL notification

Out of interest what is this notification level set at? 70% wear?

 

No it means you have about 20% left on the linings, beyond that the piston travel is likely to seize out.

Steve.

5 hours ago, Banzask said:

Hi Steve thanks again for your advice 

So I tried as you suggested, took the feed pipe off the outer housing turned the ignition on, absolutely nothing. Tried this multiple times. Put the pipe back on remove the bench seat and access panel to the filter, tried turning the car on to see if I could hear the pump. Every time I turn the key past ignition to start, I can hear the pump for a second before engine turns over and for a second after engine is turned off.

I’m  confused now, does this mean the pump is being told not to prime the system or does it mean it doesn’t actually prime on just ignition? 
 

Joe

Hi Joe, sounds like the pump is ok as the pump operating for a second after shut down is what its supposed to do to take up any air in the system and if its only running for the same time on start up thats ideal, which brings me back to the rail pressure regulator which is a spring loaded device that is solenoid controlled but it can have a tendency to stick when worn as they are not individually monitored by the ECU they generally throw up a code for rail pressure the clue could be that the car only does it on rough roads, they don't like being rattled around when worn, the reason for the effect not happening when accelerating hard is because it will use a part of the valve stem in the unit that is infrequently used, once the valve is worn they can stick and starve the rail of pressure as it is slow on reacting to the opening pulse.

Steve.

5 hours ago, Claudiu said:

Hello all 

Recently my Audi is coming EML light on ,OBD reading says::

OBDeleven data log

Date: 2023-01-13 19:16

    VIN: WAUZZZ4G5FN041791
    Car: Audi A7
    Year: 2015
    Body type: Sportback
    Engine: CTCC 160 kW (218 HP) 3.0 l
    Mileage: 149697 KM

---------------------------------------------------------------
01 Engine

    System description: 3.0l V6 TDI
    Software number: 4G0997401E
    Software version: 0001
    Hardware number: 4G0907401E
    Hardware version: H14
    ODX name: EV_ECM30TDI0114G0997401E
    ODX version: 001001
    Long coding: 1A254012042401030800

    Trouble codes: 
        P042900 - Catalyst Heater Control Circuit Bank 1
            static
                Date: 2023-01-11 12:18:27
                Mileage: 149672 km
                Priority: 2
                Malfunction frequency counter: 1
                Unlearning counter: 255
                Engine speed: 758.50 1/min
                Normed load value: 38.0 %
                Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
                Coolant temperature: 73 °C
                Intake air temperature: 15 °C
                Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar
                Voltage terminal 30: 12.820 V
                Dynamic environmental data: 20962818F2053214F7109511B21178133A0B1E15280000
        P013300 - O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Slow Response
            Intermittent
                Date: 2022-12-06 20:08:16
                Mileage: 148891 km
                Priority: 2
                Malfunction frequency counter: 1
                Unlearning counter: 255
                Engine speed: 1136.50 1/min
                Normed load value: 0.0 %
                Vehicle speed: 44 km/h
                Coolant temperature: 60 °C
                Intake air temperature: 2 °C
                Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar
                Voltage terminal 30: 14.380 V
                Dynamic environmental data: 2096131026058E1139000011400111461018114713A8113A0E54113E37C2


-------------------------------------------------------------

Any help appreciated 

Thank you

Hi I think you need to change the o2 sensor, that may well cure your problem.

Steve.

21 hours ago, Laurentiu said:

I don't believe is OK to change egr cooler on premium brand on 60 k miles, and this is about 1000 £

Hi unfortunately  Jon is 100% correct, premium brand or not its a fact same as the timing chains fitted to Mercedes/BMW, the design is flawed in so much as if it was running dry exhaust gas it would be fine but if you throw Adblue and the water vapour into the mix it becomes a glutinous white substance that just blocks the cooler tubes this then corrodes the tubes as Adblue when wet and partially solidified is extremely corrosive on base metals.

Steve.

2 hours ago, BigZee said:

OK  I have a 2010 A6 C6 4F 2.0tdi 170bhp Le Mans (saloon).

   I am looking to replace the front fog lights as the reflective surfaces have perished.

   Does anyone know the part number? The number on the lens pertains to an A4 but with H7 bulbs and mine are H11 bulbs!!

  The lenses are oval, help, anyone???

Thanks, Brian 

Hi if you take out the original lamp the part number is stamped on the back casing, if you are not sure post a picture and someone on here will point you at the right number.

Steve.

6 hours ago, Audi dan said:

Hi many thanks. Do you think this broken arm to the sensor would of put the car in continuous jacking mode ?

Yes I agree I was only going 18 mph.

Regards

Dan

HI yes any defective sensor will cause problems as it throws the whole system out so most likely yes, if you fit a new unit it will have to be readapted so it works in harmony with the other sensors.

Steve.

21 hours ago, coupe4 said:

i must see can i disable it so with the vcds,i must also get more familiar with the vcds as i only use the basic functions on it up to now.

Hi you would be amazed at what you can do with it, activate dormant functions on your car, check soot and ash levels in the DPF even when the last regeneration was as well as reset the Adblue level if that goes wonky, it will even let you check the amount in the tank and then there is a host of re adaption portals for just about any sensor/valve on the engine.

Steve.