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Just reset the fault. It’ll be fine. Did you stop when the pump clicked? Don’t overfill the tank.

How does the stop start work? Is it off the starter motor, or do you have BAS 48V system?

Try LLL parts You can get the inserts on eBay too. For the other readers, they are held in at the back with a small plastic clip and if you use a trolley jack and don’t line it up correctly the insert will pull out and damage the clip. Then they wobble and fall out.

It would help to know the mileage on the vehicle mate. The pads should do about 70k miles. Discs twice that.

Have you tried using a second device?

I wouldn’t bother changing the oils in the diffs and transfer box, they’ll be like new. Certainly at that low mileage.

Post some pics when you do it mate and let us know if it solves the squealing

They look fine mate. That’s a tiny lip if any and perfectly normal. I would fit new genuine pads to them and be done.

52k miles on them

I just used a steel ruler from the toolbox. Sounds ghetto when I type it out lol. Let me put it this way….. the car went for brake fluid service at Audi late last year and they told me the discs need changed shortly due to corrosion. So I gave them a gentle scrape with the ruler to remove the crud and they look like new now and no comments at the last service at Audi last month. See my post about brake disc corrosion although that’s not the same discs mentioned above but that’s how bad that can get.

Got any pics?

Are the discs genuine? What’s the thickness left? I would defo scrape the edges and just fit new pads if all in spec. Assuming these are 400mm if on a SQ7. New pads cheap enough for genuine items and a straight forward fit.

Genuine parts can be found for reasonable prices on the Bay of E. Fit them yourself or take them to a friendly Indy that fits customer supplied parts. I’ll be trying out Febi rear brakes when I change the rears next time. Not sure I would use them on the front. Otherwise TRW pads for the rear are oem. GDB2131. I’ve found that you need to scrape off the accumulated rust on the other of the front discs to get any mileage out of them, especially on the rear face. Just do it in situ. Is this to resolve the squealing issue?

WBAC

Could be as simple as a the starter generator belt slipping due to tensioner failure. Manifests as something drastic but easily fixed. Keep us updated please.

This was supposed to be a ski trip but it ended up being more of a road trip lol. Aylesbury to the Channel Tunnel then into Belgium, Luxembourg and into Germany to spend the night. Then Germany to Austria and on to Italy to ski Cortina for Christmas. A few days later we carried on through Slovenia and Croatia to spend the night in Bosnia. Next day carried on to Serbia and finally Bulgaria to ski in Bansko for New Years. A few days later we turned around and headed back to Serbia for the night. We drove all day the next day back to Germany. Then back home the following day. 2.5 days of driving to get back. Favourite place was Bosnia. Here’s a few pics.

I think the genuine Audi discs are poor quality. They shouldn’t be wearing like this. I’ll try and find someone local to me who can resurface them on a lathe properly as they’re off the car. Then install them in about another 10k miles. There will be enough in the discs for another ~40-50k miles imho.

Note: I took these pictures after the discs had been sitting dry stored for a while, not straight after they were removed. You can see just how reduced the brake pad contact surface was. I then gave them a scrub with some 60 grade emery paper to see how they would come up. I also measured the disc thickness on the wear surface and they are measuring 34.93mm so only about half worn. There was still plenty of meat left on the pads too.

Interesting to read that, thanks Steve. The brake fluid has been changed every 2 years by Audi as per their schedule. The car was under extended warranty until last year for peace of mind. I’ll show you the condition of the front brakes and pads after 50k miles, as I’ll be honest I’ve never seen this on another car.

How come it’s only the front discs then?

Lol, I know. His loss, my gain. The new discs corrode as much as the old discs so I know they’re genuine ha ha haaa The car hasn’t been washed in months in that pic on long term review. But the Polish guys at Tesco get to wash it every few months. That’s about it. I’m not too precious with it.

You can pick up genuine brake discs and pads on auction sites easy enough so it’s not too expensive to remedy.

Following on from my long term review and comments from another member about excessive brake disc corrosion, I wanted to share my similar experience. These are images of my brake discs at about 45k miles. The corrosion builds up and creates a hardened layer of material that chews up the brake pads so they only end up wearing the middle of the disc surface, if that makes sense. I changed out the discs and pads at 50k miles, but they would have done about 70K miles.

Since my original post, I’ve had my second fault. It came up as a drive system fault. Basically the stop start wouldn’t work so I switched it off. It turned out to be a faulty tensioner on the starter/generator so I replaced the tensioner and the belt for good measure. it cost about £125 all up and was accessible from under the car as shown in the pics. All good afterwards.