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Just now, Stevey Y said:

Hi its the EGR thats causing the Turbo problem as its clogging the variable vane bit up with crud, just replace it as if its the original its not worth the time taking it off cleaning it and putting it back on to find it still plays up, what did you have a remap or one of those disaster in waiting tuning boxes.

Steve.

I had a proper remap - from someone a friend of mine has been using for ten years - and I trust his judgement.

I would think, at 107k miles, it might be worth fitting an £80 aftermarket EGR, and then - if it doesn't work out - fit a genuine one? 🤔

Thanks, Steve. I can get a genuine EGR from Audi for Around £380 - or an aftermarket one for around £80...🤔 eBay aftermarket link

There is a slight lag in acceleration, not as pronounced as an early Saab turbo, but noticeable; but I thought this might be a function of having the chip breathed on (which enhanced the performance significantly).

I could probably strip down the EGR and have a look at the turbo's vanes this weekend...

Good afternoon all,

I've not been online much, as the convertible has been behaving itself. However, a couple of days ago, it threw a hissy-fit and went into limp mode, with the glow plug light flashing (actually, it went into 'undriveable' mode).

As soon as I restarted, it returned to normal. However, a day or so later I had a similar event, so garaged it until I had time to use the OBD11 on it.

As expected, it started and idled perfectly, but threw up the following codes:

P0403 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit - Intermittent

P0234 - Turbo/Super Charger Overboost Condition - Intermittent

A bit of googling suggests that the EGR may be blocked or defective. Can anyone suggest first steps to diagnose what needs cleaning or replacing, please?

Many thanks,

Mike 😎

PS Car is a 2006 A4 convertible with a BPW 2.0 TDi 140, manual gearbox and about 107k miles.

You didn't specify what product from the link you thought would be the solution to your problem.

Also - lighten up, why don't you?🙄

So – it's wet and cold here in Norfolk  😃 - and I have just collected the convertible from Norwich Audi, after having the oil pump drive replaced.

Everything looked in good order once the sump was eventually removed (pics from my mate Kev)…

The drive was pretty worn…

…difficult to show in a pic…

…but I am really glad I got it done. I'm content that this should now be good for another 100k miles or so… 😎

Amazing how a small part could cause chaos if it failed…

7 hours ago, evopilot said:

To recap now it's fine when on normal cruise and partial throttle there is no issue at all its smooth as they day it rolled out of the dealership, the problem kicks in under heavy acceleration say when over taking the power comes in and you can feel the turbo pull the car then it looses power, stops pulling, the revs jump up 500-1000rpm and the car comes back in, naturally the turbo is no longer pulling as its lost pressure but if i keep my foot accelerating you can feel the turbo coming back in again

OK - don't bite my head off - but from your description, this sounds suspiciously like a fuel blockage. Sudden loss of power; stops pulling; blockage clears; revs increase... 🤔

Hi Mohammed,

Thanks for the update.

OK—seems you are on your own with this as far as Audi are concerned, so you need to work out a fix. If this was my car, I'd put a wire brush on my Dremel or drill, and expose all the metal around the rust spots under the bonnet. This should give you a good look at any underlying problem.

Assuming you get down to good metal, with no holes or dents from below, I'd get a rattle can of primer, and another of your car's colour, and just respray the area (which needn't be more than a couple of inches (5cm) in diameter).

If you find that the rust has formed from a dent from below, you're going to have to do some further investigating…

Have you tried asking the vendor? If he's selling these regularly, this can't be the first time this question has come up... 🤔

13 minutes ago, Steve Q said:

Glad it was an easy fix. An easy thing to miss! 

Thinking back, I was having trouble getting the other end of the hose to fit into the turbo (the end with the metal collar and spring clip). My buddy Dave came over to help - I was in the house, and he said, "I could see you were having trouble getting the end of the hose into the turbo - I've done it". I didn't take this to mean he'd tightened the clamp on the other end (which I'd not done, as I was sure I was going to need to remove it again to sort out why it didn't fit into the turbo), but we then got busy doing the fuel filter, oil change etc, and it must have slipped my mind.

As you say, an easy fix - and a lesson learned to make sure you've finished all of the work before buttoning it all up.

Took the car out with the hood down to have an alfresco breakfast with my mate Darren this morning - how many more weekends will we have nice enough weather to do so?

Well, I eventually got around to looking at the car today (having been away on leave in the USA) - and found the problem straight away.

I’d clearly not tightened the jubilee clip holding the hose from the front gallery to the turbo (this was the hose which had the split in it). Popped the hose back on, tightened the jubilee clip 🤦‍♂️ and did a test  drive - good as new 😃

I was a policeman for 10 years or so, then an RAF Fighter Controller for 18yrs. I then travelled a bit and have been working for the civil service (currently MoD) for the last 14 years. I'm partially retired and work a two-day week at home.

I like to travel, by motorcycle where practicable, and write a daily report when I do & have about 8k regular readers...

I've just got back from three weeks riding in Oregon, California and Nevada...

Journal

No pictures of the new hat? 🤨🤣😂🤣

9 minutes ago, Dr-x said:

Flea

Dumb

4 hours ago, RoyC said:

Marvel

Louse

Genuine pair of fronts on eBay here for £57 🤔

EDIT - same seller has the rears here for £42.50

Don't know how that compares with dealer prices?

Driving at 70mph this morning, when I get the (all too familiar) sensation of the loss of power, accompanied by the glow-plug light flashing...🤨

It happened about half a mile from home, inbound, so I just stopped when I got there and did a scan with the OBDEleven:

Sure enough - it shows an air leak in the intake, plus a turbo under-boost.  I put it in the garage and will get around to it when the weather is more amenable.

Dammit! 🤨

Was it as warm as it looks? 🥵

This chap seems to be making a statement… 😃

Leave the engine off for 10 minutes, then check the dipstick (by taking it out, wiping it and then dipping it back in and pulling it out to check) - this will tell you what your oil level is.

21 minutes ago, Steve Q said:

That's good to hear 🙂 I guess they're younger parts though. 

No Steve, both types were new parts. It seems that one is better quality than the other…

Mike 😎

I had to remove the door card today and - although the one surviving clip of the earlier type broke - ALL the ones I sourced at Amazon survived.

Well, good news and bad. You do need to remove the door card to change the switch, which is held in place by a couple of metal spring clips. None of the new style door card clips broke when removing and refitting the card! 😃

Unfortunately, that's the end of the good news. The switch I'd bought from eBay has a different connector on it - so couldn't be used. Plus I ham-fistedly managed to break the old switch getting it out 🤦‍♂️

To rub salt into the wound - Audi have discontinued the switch (part number is 8E2 962 1085 PR), so I've ordered a used part from eBay, leaving the plug hanging out of the hole in the door card.  It'll be a simple matter of connecting the plug and then popping it into the housing when it arrives. I'm going to see if I can replace the cover (which was the only snag) of the switch when it arrives with that of the switch. I bought it from China, and I'm not going to bother going through the rigmarole of returning it.

Ho-hum.

How about those door card clips, though! 😃😆

Battery would have been my first thought - and starter motor would have been my second. I had a raft of problems with a failing starter on a BMW motorcycle, that were completely illogical at the time.

Please drop back in and update us on the solution when you find it. 👍

Mike 😎

The lock/unlock switch on the driver’s side door card on the convertible has had a hard life. Since I can get a new eBay replacement for just over six quid, I thought I’d fit a new one.

Do I need to remove the door card to replace it, or can I prise it out with a spudger or similar? 

Cheers,

Mike 😎