bantamdave21

Thanks Steve Is there a normal range of readings at all? As I’m getting zero ppm post cat I’m assuming the issue is there? I know the adblue aims to reduce nox but assuming zero ppm isn’t realistic too…. cheers Dave

Hiya folks Could do with a little help if possible please. I have a few faults I'm trying to resolve: car is a 2017 2.0tdi A4, B9 - The first is a P2200 NOx sensor fault.... I understand this to be (perhaps incorrectly) the engine side sensor but have read and watched a video somewhere that suggests this code is post sensor. I've used live data in VCDS and appear to be getting a PPM reading engine side and can't get another reading from any of the other options for post. But then again figured thats what SCR is meant to do and ensure NOX becomes N and O2? I have a sensor coming and think other than slight differences to loom they may be the same sensor for both positions. BUT where the hell is the engine side sensor? - Also code P06DA - oil pressure circuit, assume this is a faulty solenoid but like above I can;t find it anywhere... Edit - also any NOx sensor learning/coding to required? Any help appreciated folks...

Hiya folks…. Apologies to reply to, and drag back up to the top an old thread. I’ve not seen any other threads like this (but it has been a long week!!) is there a way around this? Code it out or similar? Every trip for almost two years now I have to change from efficiency drive mode to something else and back again to fully get efficiency mode gearbox (with intelligent free wheel etc…. I’ve poked around in VCDS but I’m very new to it. I’ve done basic settings and addressing of some heater flaps and I felt very smug at achieving that much 😂

Hiya, it’s done maybe 5-10k since. You’d hope it would’ve been reset when serviced but you never know I guess. It drives fairly faultless otherwise I just wasn’t too sure if that’s just how they are… it’s at Audi in next month or two for its normal service they may take a look perhaps

Hi Can anyone give any advice at all please? I have a 2017 A4 s line 2.0d auto. I find what appears a lag when engaging reverse - I can only describe as feels like it’s building up to moving backwards. And occasionally I feel like I have a similar lag forwards when say coasting a little then accelerating again. This may be completely normal I just haven’t had one before and this is my first Audi automatic. It’s just done 100k miles and I have paperwork of a gearbox service shortly before my purchase. Is this just normal?

Hiya, I’ve been Googling this and forum searched and have found many a conflicting tale…was hoping someone could help. My car is a 2017 B9 A4. I’ve been set up as key user with Audi themselves and have paid the annual subscription for remote services. They told me on the call I can associate my connect profile with the MMI using the pin and it constantly shows up in the app. I’ve tried entering the pin in audi connect in the MMI and it says this service unavailable (or similar - I should have taken a photo) I’ve also seen online you need to enter this into online destination in the nav but can’t find online destinations… The car wifi is working and connected to my phone, I have a data sim installed so the car wifi has data access. any ideas anyone? I’m not even sure what benefit there is to successfully achieving this tbh. thanks

Welcome…..great choice and particularly at such mileage. Can’t help with a touchscreen version but have just fitted CarPlay to my 2014 A4 utilising original screen and finding it very useable despite lack of touchscreen…

Finally picked it up…..in love with the colour…trouble is I think the wife is in love with the car and fancying it as her car….

Hiya, Not something I’ve come across tbh. I did my discs and pads but wound them back with OBD type tool or may have used VCDS. And all has been fine since… I’d always start with reading codes with a quality device, check for mechanical issues - is the calliper stuff, is it holding on causing heat etc and hopefully you find a direction from that. Does seem odd that a new motor would play up…. sorry can’t be more help

Well well well After spending a small fortune this last 18 months on my B8 I stumbled on a stunning A4, B9 Avant 2017 in twilight grey at a price I just couldn’t miss - pic below…. PS A4 B8 in cuvee silver now looking for a new home

Hiya, After finally sorting out all the little niggles on my A4 (practically rebuilt the entire front suspension including new knuckles and wheel bearings) timing belt and water pump, six belt and idler and tensioner, new alternator and crankshaft damper just because I wanted to know it was all done - I came across a 2017 A4 B9 Avant S Line in twilight grey today at a price I just couldn’t refuse so will shortly have three cars again so the B8 needs to go. new clutch fitted April less than 5k miles since. Now just turned over onto 180k miles and just fitted Apple CarPlay and order map updates for the MMI 🤬 Located Worksop, Nottinghamshire if anyone is looking drop me a line. I’ve thought about keeping it and moving the BMW 3 series Estate along but having two estates as much as I don’t like just makes sense. Cheers

And after all that….I’ve just fitted Apple CarPlay box also then I see a 2017 B9 A4 Avant in twilight grey for a steal of a price and couldn’t help but buy it. Wasn’t even looking…. So now the saloon has to go….gutted as it literally has new allsorts of everything and will be solid for years to come

Indeed….just an unusual one for me. I must’ve done 100’s over the years. Anyway she’s had some more love today new alternator and deflector pulley. The only bits I didn’t change with timing belt and still had a noise. At the time when I was getting timing belt parts i wasn’t sure where the noise was so rather than order an alternator pulley kit and fit it was the alternator I figured I’d go with everything is new so it’ll do another however many thousand miles….even did crankshaft damper pulley so I knew it was good for a long time. And thankfully the engine noise has gone now too…. keep changing the oil every 5-6k and hope she lives a long life. Don’t work hard motorway to kent every week steady away

Road tested and was bearing. I’m still baffled in honesty, nothing in the bearing spun by hand and feels lovely and smooth - never had a bearing like that in 20+ years but pleased its not the gearbox or not yet. new knuckle (couldn’t get the bolt out) all new arms, ARB link which all needed doing. the photo is the bearing from pass side which I fitted around 10k ago (I only had one new one which went on pass side around a week ago while trying to track the noise. I don’t like fitting a used bearing back but it was for proving purposes and have ordered a new new one to pop in next week. Tracking tomorrow phew… Thanks for input….as always

Jealous…..welcome and enjoy. October will seem so far away

That would be my next normally but all new, well less than 2000 miles. I’ve not noticed lumps or bumps in them when I did the other bearing and no jilting of the wheel…. hopefully it’s the drivers bearing and I just couldn’t spin it up on the drive quick enough. I should’ve jacked it and spun it with the engine although that wouldn’t eliminate the gearbox but at least I could isolate sides…

And that’s what’s throwing me the noise is the same regardless of road surface, straight, left or right hand bends etc. the garage thinks it’s the drivers bearing. I span both and could only hear anything in passenger so changed that. I’ve just fitted a new bearing in the new drivers knuckle I have (the bolts seized in my top arms and has been on my list a short while - I don’t have facilities to heat or burn the bolt out) so tomorrow AM when it’s hopefully not too warm I’ll swap it over and do all the arms and ARB link at same time (another needed job) and if nothing else I’ll have replaced everything on drivers side too but will keep fingers crossed it’s the bearing….

Welcome and enjoy you’ll love your Q5

Welcome and enjoy

Welcome and enjoy

Hiya, apologies from the still novice….I recently had my clutch replaced around 1000 miles ago. Now have developed a not so nice noise first thoughts were wheel bearing so checked them all even replaced the front I hadn’t already replaced and the noise still there. So I’m thinking the worse even if at 175k miles. Not sure if losing oil at clutch change is possible and not been topped up or pure coincidence. It’s going back to the clutch garage today for a check over in case I’ve missed anything on the drive. But suspect it’s going to be needed a new/another box…. so the question is there a way to identify the box fitted before it’s removed….I’m hoping the clutch garage would be willing to swap it at my cost if it does seem to be the box so would like to start my search for a replacement - it’s a 6 sp manual SE teknic 2014 I’m hoping the answer is all the 6sp are the same or code this or that from x year 🙏 thanks

Welcome……

Welcome along…

Welcome…..i’m only a little jealous

Looks great….welcome to the forum