kh904

Have a look here: https://cardiagn.com/audi/ or https://www.car-repairmanual.com/audi/audi-a3/

Have a look at the Vagtechnic youtube channel. They have done plenty of timing chain replacements. There is an issue with the VAG (not sure if it's Audi specific) TFSI engines (prior to 2019), where the timing chain, rocker arms (specifically the pins), timing chain guides and tensioner have issues. The pins in the rocker arms, the timing chain and tensioner have since been upgraded and you should replace the whole lot otherwise you run risk of catastrophic engine damage. If you are hearing noises as you described, then I would seriously suggest not revving the car too hard and get the timing chain work done asap. I have to say, from previously owning a Peugeot 406 coupe, I thought Audi were supposed to be a step up in build quality, but the Peugeot was like a tank. I'm 2 years of owning my A5 sportback (2018 B9), the temperate flap motor for the climate control, brake pressure sensor and rear led cluster has failed (costing around £700 to fix), and my obd scanner is picking up faults with a couple of climate control flap malfunctioning! I've barely driven 3k miles in 2 years! I'm not impressed with Audi at all!

Ok, just an update for those who may have a similar problem.... I removed the rear light cluster and thought that I could open up the unit, but unfortunately not. It's a sealed unit, so you can't easily replace the leds, so I purchased a replacement cluster and so far the problem is fixed. It seems that enough moisture go into the clutter to cause the fail. It does seem that it's bad product design from Audi, especially the water channels where the tailgate/boot meets the taillight cluster. The rubber & plastic trim isn't water tight and water can get through!

Ok, so i've used my obdeleven scanner and done numerous output checks and itried the followi g: All rear lights - all the lights except the right rear brake light were on All left rear lights - all left rear lights were on and ok All right rear lights - all right rear lights except the right rear brake light were on All brake lights - ALL the brake lights were on INCLUDING the right rear brake light! So the LEDs on the right brake lights are not blown which make me confused on how that can be! The fault code on the scanner is: B12C313 (Rear brake light bulb - open circuit), status: static and U112100 (Databus missing message), status: intermittent Not sure if that helps anyone?!

Hi all, I've had a warning message pop up on my 2018 sportback (b9) - 'Right rear brake light defective'. I've had a look at the rear and the rear light works when I put the lights on, the indicator works, but the brake light doesn't when I press the brake pedal. Does anyone have any idea how to replace the brake light led? I've had a look online and can't seem to find any info! There seems to be a bit of condensation/moisture in the housing (passenger side seems fine and works ok). Thanks in advance

It's not necessary to have the ABS ECU reset, UNLESS it reached the the fault counter limit and bricked the ABS module.

Great to hear there is a relatively cheap solution of the ABS 'bricks'! It would be great of the mods can put a 'sticky' on the ecutesting.com as I feel it would be a great help to many people.

As 'Magnet' posted above, renew the sensor without delay and avoid driving the car if possible or you run the risk of 'bricking' the ABS unit. It's a case of spending £20 for a aftermarket sensor (or £90 for a OEM Audi sensor), vs £2-3k for a new abs pump....

I'm glad that you managed to get it sorted!

I had a heater flap motor fail on my2018 A5. A genuine OEM motor also cost me around £165. A specialist Audi mechanic (4Rings in Dartford) replaced it. It was the driver's side that failed, which is more difficult to replace as there's little room to navigate (the bottom of the driver's side dash had to be removed, and there is another flap motor that had to be removed that was in the way). Officially going by the book, the whole dash should be removed (depending on what flap needs replacing), but few youtube video's show that you can get away with removing just the bottom half of the dash. I advised the mechanic and he managed to do it that way saving about 4-6 hours labour!!!! It took a couple of hours labour and they had to perform a 'basic setting' to pair up the part to the system. So you need a OBDII scanner with the basic setting function if you were to do a DIY job. Personally, unless you have the tools, seen step by step how it's done, and it's on the passenger side, I would leave it to someone more experienced. In total, it cost me around £460 (parts, labour + VAT).

Unfortunately you can't just reset the pressure sensor. I think there is some sort of physical/mechanical operation within the sensor that operates with the brake pressure, but I could be wrong. It is daft that a sensor fails so quick for a 'premium' brand.

ah yes I quickly canned the op's post and mis-read what he said. I thought he was getting in and out 20 times a day, and totally missed out the 'unless'

Sorry to bump this old thread, but I thought it was still worth replying. The car may have been of relatively low mileage for the leather to be cracking/scuffing, but I think the main issue that's causing this that is ignored! If you are getting in and out of the car 20 times a day, that will have a far greater effect on the wear than the number of miles driven. The bolster take a lot of wear when getting in and out of a car whether it's cloth or leather. My dad's car's bolster is ripped to shreds (it's only a clio with cloth seats) as he delivered fast food so is constantly in and out of his car. For the OP, the bolster car be re-dyed and then get a tough special coating that protects this area. Alternatively, depending on the car, just get a car cover for the drivers seat for day to day use, and when you are going to special functions, take off the cover.

If I understand your post correctly, they other vents blow hot and cold air (depending on the temp setting on the climate control) but the driver's side is stuck on low? If so, I had the same problem. The problem is a motor that's bolted on the heater core (behind the centre console, on the driver's side) has failed. This motor controls a plastic arm that move the flap controlling the flow of hot air to the vent (there are 3 motors that control the temp for the various vents independently). The part itself cost around £170 (part is 'V159 control motor' for the driver side). Labour was around 2.5 hours. It cost me around £450 in total to fix it. You will need to find a garage that has the Vag.com or VCDS software though, as they need to perform a 'basic setting' on the part to sync it to the system. A decent VAG specialist garage should have this software. Technically, the whole dash is supposed to come out to reach the part (going by the book), but a mechanic can get away with removing just the lower part of the drivers side dash and get enough space to replace the part (it's a tight fit though). There is a good video guide on youtube is you search for it.

4rings in Dartford

4rings in Dartford. I've used them and they have excellent google reviews

There was a long waiting lists to for Audi Bexleyheath to look at a climate control issue late last year but I put that down to the lockdowns. To be honest, i'm not impressed with authorised Audi dealers and find that a reputable independent or specialised garage do a far better job at a cheaper price. If you are ok to travel a further out to Dartford, UI would highly recommend 4rings. They are not super cheap but better than an authorised dealer and they specialise in Audi's, but can also be busy/booked up.

I can recommed 4Rings in Dartford (Not too far from Bluewater shopping centre). Excellent customer serivce. Not overly cheap but better than a main dealer and the owner/main mechanic used to be an Audi dealer technician

Hi, It's well worth reading the whole thread (it will answer all your questions and gives the sensor part code and fitting instructions). Essentially I wouldn't bother driving it if possible until the sensor is changed - you are at risk of a heavy expensive bill to replace your ABS module! The sensor can be picked up from Ebay for around £20 (a chinese copy) or £90 (OEM from Audi) and swapping the sensor literally takes 2 minutes (it's so simple).

Sorry to hear on your troubles Claudster! It's disgusting and an outright lie that Audi claim that they are unaware of the issue. I believe a number of people on this forum have informed Audi of the issue. Maybe someone can consult a class action lawyer/motoring organsiation to push our cases? All Audi need to do is send out a recall notice and update the onboard computer to change the message so when the sensor fails, it should notify the driver to stop driving, park up and contact the dealer (not that it's ok to continue driving as it currently does).

The beeps are a little concerning. I wouldn't ignore it just because you don't have a warning light on the dash. Do you have access to an obd scanner to run a diagnostics? It's worth purchasing one (get a VAG dedicated scanner). Look up VAG scanner or FVAG, they are around £80 I think.

I would highly recommend buying an OBDII scanner - The one that you can operate from a smartphone is pretty handy. You can pick a VAG specific one for around £80. It provides invaluable info/code reading and helps with diagnosis and clearing fault codes.

As long as the part number matches, you should be fine as the same sensor is used among many models in the VAG group (VW, Audi, Skoda). The only questionable thing is the quality of a chinese part vs a genuine Audi part. You can find a UK supplier from ebay quite easily for around £20 if you don't wan to spend £90 with Audi, and so far the reports on this forum seem to suggest that the aftermarket parts seem fine.

Excellent to hear that the Audi assistance were excellent and sorted the issue! It's just terrible of Audi not to send out a notice to owners of all cars that seem to be effected, as they are aware of the problem! I would advise people to replace the sensor themselves instead of paying silly money for a garage to replace it. It's so easy and only takes a couple of minutes! I highly recommend people buy an OBD11 reader and run a diagnosis at least once a year to see if it picks up any faults, or run it when a warning light/message pops up. It's only because I ran a diagnosis on the day i had the message, got the fault code and researched on the internet that I found this forum and advice! I sorted the issue within a couple of days (didn't drive it until I replaced the part).

I can't believe you got the warning message 1day after you received your car! Personally I would advise against driving the car. The ABS system bricks once it reaches 20 'cycles'. I don't know what constitutes a cycle, but it really isn't worth it. If the garage you bought the car are covering the cost, just buy a genuine part from Audi (it's about £90) and fit it yourself. It's so easy, it took me less than 5 min to replace the part