kh904

Doesn't the S-line have more exterior details? The S-Line has a slightly different bumper (i little more sportier), has side sill trims, the bottom of the rear bumper is slight different - more sportier), and the alloys are better.

I'm glad that the problem is resolved. If for whatever reason the ABS is 'bricked', there are companies that can repair it for a fraction of the cost (around £500 i think), so you don't have to replace the whole abs system for £3k+, but you will be without the use of the car while the abs part is sent to the company to recondition and replace the chip/ROM.

I'm not sure what what causes the part to fail, but the part was superceded with a new part number (part number ending in A). I'm not sure if this new part number is more reliable than the old. I ended up paying £90 for a genuine OEM part from Audi as my car was relatively new and didn't want to risk going for a £20 chinese copy, but i'm sure they are just a reliable. Audi should be ashamed of themselves on how they have dealt with this fault and has left a bitter taste in many owners mouths. I moved from a Peugeot 406 Coup to the Audi A5 Sportback, thinking that the quality will be a step up, and to be honest the Peugeot, despite it's age was very reliable!

I agree, it's really really bad from Audi and they should update the message on the dash to say 'Not to driver further and contact them'. They are also well aware of this faulty sensor because so many people have experienced this fault and contacted Audi. There really should be a class action case against them!

Hi mate, Here's a video: This one shows the passenger side which is much easier to repair as there's much better access to the control motors, so it's not much help. I'm trying to find the video for the drivers side replacement (for the V159 motor), but no luck finding it yet.

Unless you regularly get your car serviced at an Audi dealership, you'll unlikely get any 'goodwill' from them. If worst comes to worst, you can send the ABS module to a specialist who can repair/reset it for under £500. I think i've posted the link of a company that does this in this thread (go back a few pages). I can't vouch for them though as i've never had to use them.

Have a look here: https://cardiagn.com/audi/ or https://www.car-repairmanual.com/audi/audi-a3/

Have a look at the Vagtechnic youtube channel. They have done plenty of timing chain replacements. There is an issue with the VAG (not sure if it's Audi specific) TFSI engines (prior to 2019), where the timing chain, rocker arms (specifically the pins), timing chain guides and tensioner have issues. The pins in the rocker arms, the timing chain and tensioner have since been upgraded and you should replace the whole lot otherwise you run risk of catastrophic engine damage. If you are hearing noises as you described, then I would seriously suggest not revving the car too hard and get the timing chain work done asap. I have to say, from previously owning a Peugeot 406 coupe, I thought Audi were supposed to be a step up in build quality, but the Peugeot was like a tank. I'm 2 years of owning my A5 sportback (2018 B9), the temperate flap motor for the climate control, brake pressure sensor and rear led cluster has failed (costing around £700 to fix), and my obd scanner is picking up faults with a couple of climate control flap malfunctioning! I've barely driven 3k miles in 2 years! I'm not impressed with Audi at all!

Ok, just an update for those who may have a similar problem.... I removed the rear light cluster and thought that I could open up the unit, but unfortunately not. It's a sealed unit, so you can't easily replace the leds, so I purchased a replacement cluster and so far the problem is fixed. It seems that enough moisture go into the clutter to cause the fail. It does seem that it's bad product design from Audi, especially the water channels where the tailgate/boot meets the taillight cluster. The rubber & plastic trim isn't water tight and water can get through!

Ok, so i've used my obdeleven scanner and done numerous output checks and itried the followi g: All rear lights - all the lights except the right rear brake light were on All left rear lights - all left rear lights were on and ok All right rear lights - all right rear lights except the right rear brake light were on All brake lights - ALL the brake lights were on INCLUDING the right rear brake light! So the LEDs on the right brake lights are not blown which make me confused on how that can be! The fault code on the scanner is: B12C313 (Rear brake light bulb - open circuit), status: static and U112100 (Databus missing message), status: intermittent Not sure if that helps anyone?!

Hi all, I've had a warning message pop up on my 2018 sportback (b9) - 'Right rear brake light defective'. I've had a look at the rear and the rear light works when I put the lights on, the indicator works, but the brake light doesn't when I press the brake pedal. Does anyone have any idea how to replace the brake light led? I've had a look online and can't seem to find any info! There seems to be a bit of condensation/moisture in the housing (passenger side seems fine and works ok). Thanks in advance

It's not necessary to have the ABS ECU reset, UNLESS it reached the the fault counter limit and bricked the ABS module.

Great to hear there is a relatively cheap solution of the ABS 'bricks'! It would be great of the mods can put a 'sticky' on the ecutesting.com as I feel it would be a great help to many people.

As 'Magnet' posted above, renew the sensor without delay and avoid driving the car if possible or you run the risk of 'bricking' the ABS unit. It's a case of spending £20 for a aftermarket sensor (or £90 for a OEM Audi sensor), vs £2-3k for a new abs pump....

I'm glad that you managed to get it sorted!

I had a heater flap motor fail on my2018 A5. A genuine OEM motor also cost me around £165. A specialist Audi mechanic (4Rings in Dartford) replaced it. It was the driver's side that failed, which is more difficult to replace as there's little room to navigate (the bottom of the driver's side dash had to be removed, and there is another flap motor that had to be removed that was in the way). Officially going by the book, the whole dash should be removed (depending on what flap needs replacing), but few youtube video's show that you can get away with removing just the bottom half of the dash. I advised the mechanic and he managed to do it that way saving about 4-6 hours labour!!!! It took a couple of hours labour and they had to perform a 'basic setting' to pair up the part to the system. So you need a OBDII scanner with the basic setting function if you were to do a DIY job. Personally, unless you have the tools, seen step by step how it's done, and it's on the passenger side, I would leave it to someone more experienced. In total, it cost me around £460 (parts, labour + VAT).

Unfortunately you can't just reset the pressure sensor. I think there is some sort of physical/mechanical operation within the sensor that operates with the brake pressure, but I could be wrong. It is daft that a sensor fails so quick for a 'premium' brand.

ah yes I quickly canned the op's post and mis-read what he said. I thought he was getting in and out 20 times a day, and totally missed out the 'unless'

Sorry to bump this old thread, but I thought it was still worth replying. The car may have been of relatively low mileage for the leather to be cracking/scuffing, but I think the main issue that's causing this that is ignored! If you are getting in and out of the car 20 times a day, that will have a far greater effect on the wear than the number of miles driven. The bolster take a lot of wear when getting in and out of a car whether it's cloth or leather. My dad's car's bolster is ripped to shreds (it's only a clio with cloth seats) as he delivered fast food so is constantly in and out of his car. For the OP, the bolster car be re-dyed and then get a tough special coating that protects this area. Alternatively, depending on the car, just get a car cover for the drivers seat for day to day use, and when you are going to special functions, take off the cover.

If I understand your post correctly, they other vents blow hot and cold air (depending on the temp setting on the climate control) but the driver's side is stuck on low? If so, I had the same problem. The problem is a motor that's bolted on the heater core (behind the centre console, on the driver's side) has failed. This motor controls a plastic arm that move the flap controlling the flow of hot air to the vent (there are 3 motors that control the temp for the various vents independently). The part itself cost around £170 (part is 'V159 control motor' for the driver side). Labour was around 2.5 hours. It cost me around £450 in total to fix it. You will need to find a garage that has the Vag.com or VCDS software though, as they need to perform a 'basic setting' on the part to sync it to the system. A decent VAG specialist garage should have this software. Technically, the whole dash is supposed to come out to reach the part (going by the book), but a mechanic can get away with removing just the lower part of the drivers side dash and get enough space to replace the part (it's a tight fit though). There is a good video guide on youtube is you search for it.

4rings in Dartford

4rings in Dartford. I've used them and they have excellent google reviews

There was a long waiting lists to for Audi Bexleyheath to look at a climate control issue late last year but I put that down to the lockdowns. To be honest, i'm not impressed with authorised Audi dealers and find that a reputable independent or specialised garage do a far better job at a cheaper price. If you are ok to travel a further out to Dartford, UI would highly recommend 4rings. They are not super cheap but better than an authorised dealer and they specialise in Audi's, but can also be busy/booked up.

I can recommed 4Rings in Dartford (Not too far from Bluewater shopping centre). Excellent customer serivce. Not overly cheap but better than a main dealer and the owner/main mechanic used to be an Audi dealer technician

Hi, It's well worth reading the whole thread (it will answer all your questions and gives the sensor part code and fitting instructions). Essentially I wouldn't bother driving it if possible until the sensor is changed - you are at risk of a heavy expensive bill to replace your ABS module! The sensor can be picked up from Ebay for around £20 (a chinese copy) or £90 (OEM from Audi) and swapping the sensor literally takes 2 minutes (it's so simple).