RiftCygnus

Thanks for the heads up on those. So it sounds like either sway bar links, control arm bushings, or the shock absorber top mounts. Will keep that in mind. It's at about 157,200 km right now, and i bought it about 5 months ago with around 152,900 km. I have no idea on the history, but it's had the driver's side upper control arms replaced at least, and nobody has said they saw anything concerning otherwise. Beyond probably the passenger side upper control arms "showing signs of tearing out" according to one technician. It would be nice to pinpoint which specific sway bar link/s, control arm/s, or struts/shock absorber mounts are the culprit. I'll probably have to wait until the summer time when it's nicer and i can lift it in the air to check bushings and all the other components.

Hey all, I've got a 2012 Audi A6 3.0T Premium Plus that i wanted to get everyone's thoughts and opinions on a suspension issue, and the suspension differences with the earlier C6 platform. For background, i used to have a 2011 of the same model as above and had no issues with the suspension. Smooth as silk and no problems or noise. Since I got my 2012 now, it's had two upper control arms replaced (on the front drivers side i believe) and still has clunking coming from what sounds like both sides on the front, and at least one of the wheels in the back, if not both. The shop that replaced the control arms said they didn't find anything else, a second one said the suspension was fine, and a third specialist couldn't pinpoint it. But the specialist said the inner bushings of all front upper control arms (didn't mention the two new ones) are showing signs of "tearing out", and the front driver strut is "potentially" internally compromised. Mentioning nothing of the rear suspension. I'm starting to form the opinion that the C7 suspension just makes more noise and/or the cabin and frame have much worse noise dampening effects than the C6 platform. Has anyone else noticed this difference? Are there any easy ways to test and confirm that each component is fine (i.e. control arm bushings, struts, springs, etc)?

Cool man. Thanks for the heads up on that. I'll check it out. It's not a problem. I figured that was the case, but even just getting input on the ability to replace individual parts on the lower intake manifold is helpful. Any kind of input is helpful, so i'm just throwing it all out there.

Hi everyone. I posted a while ago asking about an issue with my drivers side intake manifold runner flaps on my 2011 Audi A6 3.0T just randomly deciding to go crazy after driving a while. And it's not always consistent, as in it'll happen a few drives in a row, disappear for a few weeks or a month, then come back randomly. I had a P2019 code two to three months ago accompany the symptoms, but it has since gone away without me clearing codes and hasn't come back since. Even though the symptoms are still present. I had it sent to a Euro car shop and they tried driving it for a few days and found nothing. They checked for codes and found nothing, and also checked the sensor data for the intake manifold and found no abnormalities. So whatever this is, it's very finnicky and only comes out at certain times. So what i'm thinking of doing is just ordering the parts i think may be causing the problem and have the shop replace them. But before I do that, I wanted to ask some questions. My first question is, is it possible to replace the parts like the lower intake manifold runners' position sensor and vacuum actuator individually without having to take the turbocharger off and swap the entire lower intake manifold? For the second question, i'll preface that i'd probably buy the sensor and actuator brand new OEM, as i'm sure it'll be a lot less expensive than an entire OEM lower intake manifold assembly. But IF I decide to put in another lower intake manifold assembly if the sensor and actuator can't be replaced individually without taking off the turbocharger, where would be a good source to buy a good quality intake manifold assembly? From what I checked, an OEM lower intake assembly is around $1k. And from what it looks like on Amazon and such, aftermarket versions of the assembly are reviewed as and look kind of junky. So my thought is to possibly go for a used one from a low mileage vehicle from a reputable Audi salvage yard/recycler. Does anybody know if there are possibly any good quality aftermarket intake manifold assemblies or reputable Audi salvage yards/recyclers?

Alright. Cool. Thanks for that Steve. Good place to start on what it is. Happy to have any information on it.

Hey everyone. I recently had the P2019 code come on for my 2011 A6 3.0T a few drives ago. But for some reason, the code went away the next drive and hasn't occurred since. But, i've noticed that the normal Cold Start procedure that runs the secondary air injection system and other tests isn't running on a cold start since that code popped up. Usually the engine will idle at 1200 RPMs for a minute or two, then rest at 800 or so, but it just drops straight to 800 on cold start now. From what i've looked up, the code is for the "Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit". I looked it up in the Service/Maintenance manual, found the diagram for the intake manifold and two devices on the end that I think maybe be involved. They're the "flap potentiometer" and the vacuum unit for actuating the intake manifold flaps. I'm not sure which component it would be. I don't know if the potentiometer is considered a sensor, because google says it's a "variable resistor or potential meter". So unless the vacuum unit has some sort of sensor in it, i'm stumped. I'm also not sure why it would be affecting the cold start procedures, so i'm hoping someone can help explain how that's involved.

Sorry, can you say that again? I can't understand the last sentence.

So i was finally able to get a good audio recording of noise I was talking about. It's more of a rattle I guess than a whining. Though I don't know if it's an initial, unoiled timing chain rattle before it gets tensioned right, or something else. You can hear it when the engine first turns over, then it gradually fades away. One really cold day, like i said above, continued for about a good 3 to 5 minutes of driving. Anybody have an idea what this is? https://vocaroo.com/1hsDsedLiIw5

Hey all. So i recently watched this video here about a seized 3.0T Audi engine due to seized rod bearings: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rABgqmZkv6Y&ab_channel=HumbleMechanic He specifically said that the engine had oversized pulleys and a tune on it, which he thinks may have contributed to the rod bearings seizing. He, however, doesn't give any other specific reason for the bearings seizing besides the mods and some discoloration on the rods indicating excessive heat. So he speculates it may have been low on oil as well, and all the oil galleys in the crankshaft are clear. I read through the comments and someone posted something very convincing about most cases like this being due to oil dilution from a failing HPFP (High Pressure Fuel Pump) There's lots of confirmation in these comments about the pump failure, and also it being low on oil. I also found some sites mentioning driving short distances a lot and lots of cold starts in colder climates I'm considering doing the same as these engines and applying a tune, which includes an auxiliary intercooler and throttle body hose (and a power steering cooler for some reason). But no oversized pulleys yet. I'm just worried that if i do the mods, the same thing will happen to my engine. To me, it sounds like the way to cover all the bases is make sure the oil is checked and changed regularly, replace the fuel pump, and avoid short distance driving and lots of cold starts. Can anyone that's really familiar with this issue chime in if this information is correct? I'd rather do all the preventative maintenance at once than replace the engine.

A little late, i know. But figured I'd update. So i haven't tested the parking brake, but i sent the Audi to a shop since then just to have a general inspection done. They said that the parking brake cable was just unplugged and they plugged it back in. The Parking Brake warning went away for a while, BUT it ended up coming back a couple weeks later or so. So i'm assuming the clip on the cable plug is bad or something and keeps coming off. When i get to it, i'll probably just plug the cable back in and tape it together with duct tape or something.

It would be the supercharger, but yeah. It's a possibility. The only way i could think to confirm is pop the hood before starting the car and go listen to it.

Hi everybody. So i noticed this over time, but my engine has had a whining noise that typically happens when the car first starts up, but usually goes away after a second or two. I didn't think much of it during the summer because it was so short and it was wamer, but now it's getting cold up here in the Northeast and it's starting to happen more often/last longer. Especially with this experience i'm going to share. So a couple days ago, said whining happened and didn't go away even after letting the car sit for a few minutes. It kept going while driving and only became mostly unnoticeable after about 5 minutes of driving. The whining matched the engine RPMs, so i wouldn't think it was with the secondary air pump. And from what i remember, it didn't get louder or worse when turning the wheel. So i don't think it has to do with the power steering pump. Although it's still a possibility and haven't fully ruled it out. Those were the only possibilities i could find from a quick search of the symptoms, so i'm not sure what else it could be besides the supercharger whine. Which i'm not sure what to do about or how to confirm it. Has anybody experienced this before or know if there's a common issue like this with a specific part of the car? I'm worried it's something with the engine or the supercharger and that they're going on me.

Ok, so the codes are these: Control Module for Elect. Park/Hand Brake (J540): No Signal/Communication Supply Voltage for Right Parking Brake Motor (V283): Electrical Fault in Circuit

So are you asking me to press the parking brake switch and scan for any codes again? I did catalogue both of the e-brake related codes in this picture: https://imgur.com/a/C8Gy00S These were the only related ones i saw.

I actually cleared all the codes about 1 month after I received the car. So it's had about 3 months or more to run and gather codes since then, which i'm assuming means these ones are still legitimate. What do you mean by the "switch"? I was only aware there was the electronic parking brake motor, a cable connecting it to the EPB control module, and the module itself?