Mark M.

Been there myself with my last car. If it was just the rim protector lip you would be OK, but it does look like you've taken so chunks out of the actual sidewall on the first picture so I'd say replace, especially on an RS4.

I like that 👍

I was surprised too, but it would certainly give it a punchy acceleration off the line. I was also surprised/confused that on each car 4th gear and 5th gear are almost identical to each other.

This is what I gave chatGPT... It gave me this... And now I have this...

Skoda - https://cdn.skoda-storyboard.com/2017/07/TD-SUPERB-en.pdf.pdf 1st 3.77 2nd 1.96 3rd 1.26 4th 0.87 5th 0.86 6th 0.72 Rev 4.55 Final 2.917 Audi - https://gearboxlist.com/volkswagen/mq350/ 1st 3.769 2nd 2.087 3rd 1.324 4th 0.977 5th 0.975 6th 0.814 Rev 4.549 Final 3.450 Assuming both cars have the same rolling radius on the wheels the Audi would have to be at least 200-1000rpm (difference gets bigger as the speed increases) higher than the Skoda for the same speed. So yeah, it's totally normal for the Audi to be 500rpm higher than the Skoda @ 70mph

I asked ChatGPT to show me what my Q5 would look like with black badges, it ended up costing me money 🤣

Not heard of Ispeed, only Heko ones. But looking at that, both brands make a nice aesthetic difference to any car, IMO of course.

Well, this morning I got the car warmed up and the ATF temperature was reading 40deg after a painful 35minutes of idling while periodically slowly going through the gears. While the engine was still running I unscrewed the fill plug and was able to get another 200-300ml of ATF fluid before it came dripping back out. So with roughly 5.8ltrs of ATF back in it I took her for a spin and she was faultless, gears changed quickly and smoothly regardless of what drive mode I was in, even manual shifts. So I'm going to take that as job done. Thankfully the rear diff only took 5min to change the oil.

Glad to hear it's all sorted 👍

Hmmm, this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SabrANKIrJQ states I should have left the engine running to do the very final level check. As the car is still in the air I'll have another go tomorrow but with the engine running this time.

I'm just going on what others have said regarding it being 7ltr, but I was wondering if 7ltr's is needed after a full teardown and rebuild. I did the initial top up, then ran the car until VCDS showed the ATF temp to be about 35deg then I ran through each and every gear, holding each one for about 5-10sec before going on to the next. Shut it off then topped up again and realised I'd only got 5.5ltr back in.

I've just carried out an ATF fluid change on my 2015 Q5 as I had no proof of one ever being done. I bought the Meyle service kit which came with 7ltr of fluid, external filter, inernal filter, magnets gasket and sump plug. Followed the instruction video on youtube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjzTJx8RtWo and everything went as expected, except for one thing. I finished topping up the box, but I only used a total of 5.5ltrs of ATF. So my question is, have I mislaid 2.5ltr of oil in the gearbox? or is getting 5.5ltrs back into it about right for just a service fill up?

Certainly feels like the old days to me 🤣

Late 90's so I'd say majority front wheel drive. I was certainly learning in a front wheel drive Corsa

That's just plain and boring understeer that's easily fixed by letting off the loud pedal a smidge.

Tbh, you could google "new tyres on the front or rear" and I'd say 99% of the results will say put them on the rear. It's what I was told in the old days when I was learning to drive.

Might be a useful read for OP. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/364252/half-drivers-think-new-pair-tyres-should-go-cars-front-wheels-theyre-wrong

Couldn't agree more, fitting LED bulbs in a reflector or projector style headlight unit is just a horrible idea.

Not quite accurate, LED's do give off a lot less heat than halogens. But where a halogen bulb has a lot of area to shed that heat in the form of visible light and infrared light. LED's are more susceptible to heat damage and degradation and have a, comparably, much smaller surface area so can't dissipate heat anywhere near as quickly, nor can they shed it via infrared as they don't produce it. The only way to remove that heat is with a heatsink and a fan to cool the heatsink. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZ6REQ4Wma4 The beginning of that video show the internals of an OEM LED headlight, you can see the massive heatsinks and the fans that are inside the housings

Not sure if it uses it, but the rain/light sensor for the auto headlights is behind the interior mirror and can be seen from outside the car. Just wondering if covering that sensor in the daytime would make make the car think it's night and activate the interior lights, remove the cover and if the lights go off you have your answer.

I believe the puddle lamps in the wing mirrors are light sensitive so I don't see why the interior lamps couldn't be

That's the exact problem I had on my Mk4 Mondeo, had to fit brand new headlights to fix it. As for the adjustment, is there not a local garage who could check the alignment for you?

See, I was reading that as the manual override switch was on the "door open" setting rather than a door open warning being illuminated on the dash. If the switch is on the door open setting, and the lights don't come on in daylight but do when it's dark without anything else being changed, then I would also come to the conclusion that they are dependant on the ambient light level being dark enough.

According to the internet that's never ever wrong, https://www.facebook.com/ljpremapping/posts/own-a-30-tdi-audi-or-vw-you-could-be-sitting-on-a-time-bombif-your-vehicle-was-b/1270936515032936/, it's the Mk2 from 2017 to 2022

I've had mine for just over a year now and it's at around 98000miles. Engine seems fairly bulletproof, I've had no issues with coolant, oil or strange noises. Gearbox is still nice and smooth with no clunks, jerkiness or reluctance to change gear. About the only thing I've "had" to change were the front lower rear suspension bushes as they were creaking under braking, and rear brakes as pads and discs were worn out. Overall, the car is a vast improvement over the Mk4 Mondeo 2.5t that it replaced in terms of comfort, driveability and MPG.