848phantom

Yup that's the same part...that on the b8 model is down low on the front of the engine with the egr solenoid above it...the two of them fail a lot causing over boost alarms and boost actuator position alarm, that's why I bought my own smoke machine so I can test the system myself.

The boost solenoid below the egr one.

Yeah it's coded out and all.

One looks like a long shaft going through to the rear of the alternator so didn't know if this was rod with a nut on each end so I'd be able to remove it from the back where there is more room

I have to do the pulley clutch and zero room to get the pulley tool in so looking at removing the alternator to do it. I see what looks like two bolts going through to the front of the engine. Is it lock nuts on the back or are these shafts with a thread on the front? Tried YouTube but it's only showing alternators with side mounted bolts . Thanks

I took my egr cooler out myself when blanked it off 🤣

I had this same code and it was my brake booster leaking vacuum. Get a smoke test done or buy a tester yourself..they are cheap. Had a mate with the same issue and his actuator for the egr cooler was leaking vaslc when I tested it.

I had this, for the price of the sensors I replaced the pressure sensor and the regulator.

This is something that happens all the time when the egr cooler fails ..the coolant leaks into the exhaust and you get a ton of smoke and coolant loss. Cheap enough fix if you know a decent garage as it takes 1-2 hrs to swap them out .

It can be hit an miss...Napa has bought over a lot of the local car spares places. I find electronics and that they are oe quality. Brake pads, discs, springs I avoid.

So all sorted, Fitted a napa thermostat. What a pain in the !Removed! to do... The sping clips you can't get at right, spine bolts you need multiple knuckle attachments to get at then the old thermostat didn't want to come off so pry bars hammer and screwdriver to eventually break it free. Then putting it all back together one quick release hose on the bottom of it leaking like hell....removed , wiped , reconnected an thankfully sealed. Garage floor like a swimming pool but happy to report sitting at 90 on the button and getting near 50mpg cruising in a 60 zone instead of 38mpg 🤣.

I've picked up the one that isn't part of the combined pump unit in the hope that helps. The coolant they are sticking their hand in...I thought it was g12+ but they insisted it's g40 and was £30. Hopefully this is it as I seen the price of the combined unit 🤦🏻 I'll have a bash at fitting it tomorrow as it doesn't look like too much work.

Was driving today and it's now running at 70 degrees and drops going downhill 🤦🏻

Yeah didn't know if this was normal. My A4 runs at 83 all day long regardless of what you do. I'll throw one in it soon then for they are cheap enough

As per title what's the usual running temperature you are all seeing. My model is the 177bhp model and just gets above the 70 degrees mark on the dial.also doing motorway miles I'm getting 37mpg driving like a granny I was wondering is this normal or maybe a thermostat needing replacing? Tired the search bar but couldn't find results on this group. Cheers in advance.

Tbh without a dpf you still pass emissions testing here so it's not making that much difference other than causing you to use a ton more fuel a year so what's the actual trade off with having higher fuel usage vrs how much it actually reduces emissions

Yeah thankfully this was pre 2013 so dpf, egr and swirl delete... getting 57mpg over the original 42mpg I was getting. Pity you can't do this now with the new MOT checks here

Odd that it won't let you, my A4 had the dpf mounted in the same place but you could do a forced static regeneration even when they advised a fire risk if it was too badly blocked. But saying that also I was getting dpf issues with it clogging but it wasn't actually that causing the issue. The intake swirl flap broke the arm connecting the swirl flap to the motor which threw the mixture off causing dpf, egr and limp mode issues. Odd thing was it gave me intake throttle bodies alarms ect and no swirl flap alarm as the motor was still opening and closing properly only it wasn't connected to anything 🤦🏻

That's what I mean....wd40 make other sprays. Use their wd40 contact cleaner, leaves no residue. It's also really good for cleaning maf sensors

Yeah I'm for painting the calipers so I will be fitting a refurb kit at the same time. I have had warped discs before but that was on faster cars/motorcycles, didn't know if the weight of these things caused any issues with heat build up.

Use wd40 contact cleaner on all connections and bulb holders.

No coding needed. Just have to clear all alarms via auto scan

Ah right, pity I can't put Google maps onto this version

Tbh I don't know what way he did it...he does ECU flashing an all. He said there was component protection at fault and other coding had to be done to match the key,dash, bcm ect I thought I'd wrecked the car (water was my original problem) but he sorted it ...but cost me a good few quid lol

So is it common for any sort of disc warp on the 2.0 Q5? Picked this one and think it was sitting a while. Well when braking from 70mph you can feel a chatter, because it doesn't feel like it's in the steering wheel I assume it's the rear discs. The rear ones actually look fresh but as with solid non vented im wondering have the warped. That's why I'm working is it common? Don't know if I should stick another set of standard discs on or try and get ones with groves to help slightly with the heat. Not sure if there is narrow enough vented discs out there to suit. Cheers