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Any images of the two mating surfaces?

Would be easier if you could post the details of the dtc? A screenshot maybe? Otherwise looks like it's the vent flap motor that isn't working as it should, maybe a linkage is broken or has popped off?

Potentially get the tie rods on that side checked for play. Do you hear any knocking when your driving? Otherwise check the rubber bushes on the lower control arms.

Don't take this as gospel but attached is the data for my Q7. But bear in mind I have the 8 speed auto not the 6 speed auto. Same engine though.

Have you tried to see if a injector is stuck open? Seems to be a common fault on these that the injectors go faulty, and if one gets stuck open there won't be enough pressure in the fuel rail to get the rest of the cylinders to fire. If you crank and after a couple of cranks there is a hydrolocking sound there's a good chance this is the problem. But like everyone here has said if it cranks it's not seized. Find a new garage mate.

Hi all Wondering if someone can give me some direction or reassurance I'm thinking the right thing. The car has a strange tendency to feel like it's misfiring at about 2.5k rpm when the car is warm. Although the engine does continue to re up the power just seems to fall flat at the 2.5k point. I did a test and when the engine is cold there is such flat spots or misfire. Hooked up the ODB11 tool and only engine code is P219600 02 sensor 1 bank 1 stuck rich. Which led me to think one of the injectors is going but when I checked the deviation on all 6 at idle they are all between 0.1-0.5 mg/stroke. So well within range. Then checked what the MAF sensor was actually reading compared to the specified value of air and at idle it matched roughly but at load the actual value was half of the specified value. Now my thinking is either a vacuum leak cashing the Egr to stay stuck closed at warm engine or a boost leak causing the incorrect fuel/air mix to go into the engine. I'm going to do a smoke test to find out it either of these are the problem, but if someone could suggest if this is the right thinking or if I should try something else first I'd very much appreciate it. Thanks all.

Agree with the comments above on getting all 6 done in one hit. The copper washers are well known to fail after a while. The copper washers can be bought direct from Audi and if you are there get all 6 injector bolts as they are known to snap, and the rubber oring for the injector shaft. Whether you do the job yourself or getting someone to do it for you, make sure the injector port and especially the injector seat is completely clean and has no black cruud before the injector with new washers go back in. Otherwise in 6months to a year the same job will have to be done again. I got the parts myself just recently and did the job myself and cost my less than 150 for the washers, orings and bolts, including the brush set to clean the ports.