cliffcoggin

A musty stink often indicates residual stagnant water in the condenser, caused by the drain being blocked by dirt or leaves. A dribble of water under the car when parked after driving in humid conditions with aircon tells you the drain is open. If there is no water the drain is blocked.

Please don't even consider re-drilling the wheels. Moving the holes 6mm outwards will cut into the offset web, weakening them considerably. Try the spacers if you must, and accept the risk of fouling the bodywork, but realistically your best option is to sell them.

It may be a control problem or a vent motor fault. A diagnostic scan on a professional machine should identify it.

Bear in mind there could be a variable gas leak at the compressor depending on whether it is running or not. That would not be unexpected on a 15 year old car. I was offered some sort of additive for the gas in my car that was supposed to reduce leakage, but as a cynic about such things I declined the offer. I have no idea what it is called so you would need to research it yourself if interested in trying it.

Rhubarb. Rhubarb. Rhubarb. Can't hear a word you are saying Gareth.

The sourcing of low quality parts by manufacturers, and subsequent rebranding as OEM, has been mentioned a couple of times on this forum. I forget specifically who it was.

David. Zooming your pictures shows the meter to be set to the 0-20 amp scale, so the readings refer to amps not milliamps. That information confirms there is a significant power drain and explains the battery going flat overnight. Previous similar problems on this forum show that pulling fuses has not helped in diagnosing the fault, so I suggest you get the car to an electrician who will be able to test individual circuits. Before doing that please confirm you have not fitted any auxilliary equipment such as a dash cam or sat nav etc. that is connected to a permanent live supply, i.e. a supply that is not switched off by the ignition key.

Cassy. If you want meaningful opinions you need to be much more specific in telling us what parts of the car were damaged and repaired. All you have mentioned so far is the vague "I had a panal beater paint the bumper and fix some damage". As for the water in the boot, that could be window wash water from the wiper motor as Richard pointed out. It was a common problem in that model, and therefore possibly unrelated to the body repairs. Test the rear wash function to be certain.

By which time the engine may be damaged. How does that compare to the cost of a new level sensor?

Fair enough. As long as you are satisfied with the car.

No. Nothing.

Any comment on the above Colin? I know you have seen it.

Any comment on the above Martin. I know you have seen it.

Any comment on the above Colin. I know you have seen it.

Sorry Edward, I can not hear anything strange in your recording. It's not unusual that members post audio recordings in the hope that odd noises can be identitifed, but rarely can we hear the noise in question. You have become attuned to the noise so you can hear it much more readily than we can.

Evidently it was a data socket she plugged into, which is what one would expect on modern cars in order to connect the infotainment system to a phone. Better to use a non data socket next time, or find a way in the menu to disable data transfer at the front socket, though would defeat the purpose of buying such a sophisticated system.

A loose motor earth could easily explain the poor starting, but not the power drain. The 1.6 mA drain you reported is not believable. A car in good order and locked loses a few dozen milliamps normally, some 30 times your reading.

Would raising the engine off its mounts give you enough clearance? It is what I would have done 40 years ago, but I do not know it if it is practical on your car.

Rather than throw money at parts that may or may not solve the problem, I suggest you get a diagnosis using a decent scanner.

A long warm up time suggests it not fully closing. I have read a few cases in these forums where even new thermostats were defective. I guess that is why Magnet is asking about the brand.

Check the earth connections at each light. That is a common cause of defective lights.

D. Please do us a favour and change to a more human sensible name. DaveF perhaps? The diesel problems you mentioned are not unique to Audi or Mazda. Every modern diesel suffers from attempts to comply with emissions regulations. Some are more successful than others, but all eventually have to contend with DPF faults. See this topic for information about Audi mild hybrid. It is specifically about the A7 but the technology is apparently the same on other models as you will see from other members's contributions. Personally I would not touch one with a barge pole. https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system/#comment-93343

If you are convinced the guarantee is for two years then it is legal advice you need, not technical. Good luck in resolving your problem. Do let us know the outcome.

I assume the large wheels will have very low profile tyres, an arrangement that is known to produce a much harsher ride than normal, so it's reasonable to believe that is what has knocked out springs and bearings. Not sure about the drive shafts.

Did you have the new battery coded to the car? It won't work properly until you do.