cliffcoggin

There is probably a bad connection in the bolb holder or further back at the plug. Disconnect and clean all the contacts, including the earth connection of the bolb holder.

The noise is probably the pads dragging lightly on the disc. Have the pads had a chance to bed in yet? If they have then I suspect that either the disc is warped or the caliper is not swivelling as it should.

Indeed, but if a price seems too good to be true, it usually is too good to be true.

Unfortunately that data does not tell you the battery is OK. Get it tested professionally as Steve suggested, though I would not classify Halfords as professionals.

£160 equates to about an hour and a half of labour by a skilled mechanic. Somehow that does not seem nearly enough time to strip, clean, repair, and re-assemble a strut. If that £160 price also included packing and posting then corners must surely have been cut in the work.

Gordan. Joe has not returned to the forum for eight years so it's unlikely he will reply. However I thought his final report fully explained the problem and its cure quite well.

Peter. Assuming the tyres match each other in regards to brand, pressure, condition etc. as Gareth suggests, the problem is likely to be too much toe-in, which will be revealed by extreme wear of the outer shoulder of the right tyre. You may even find the shoulder has been completely scrubbed off while the majority of the flat surface is unworn. If so, your car is dangerous and should be repaired without delay, as the problem will very rapidly worsen. You should first get the steering and suspension checked for wear, and then get the tracking adjusted. Usually only the front toe-in needs to be done, but it is possible the rear also is mis-aligned if the car has been crashed.

Any garage worth its salt would have looked at the two cylinders first as they are the obvious culprits when a pedal remains on the floor. I suspect the garage has wasted a lot of your money.

Glad to hear it.

Having found a garage willing to look at the car it would be worth cultivating them by letting them do the repair.

Joanne. You can test the Ohme charge point by setting the schedule on its panel. That should tell you if the app/wifi/mobile part of the connection is at fault.

You might as well delete the whole topic Gareth, as Brian clearly has little interest in the matter.

As Steve said, there's a chance that a turbo or the transmission is faulty. Both are expensive repairs and you would be well advised to return the car to the dealer. He will doubtless try to fob you off by telling it is inherent in that model or some other nonsense, but stand your ground and insist on a refund.

Yes. Get it tested to find out whether it is the ECU, the instrument cluster, the battery or something else that is faulty?

A litre per 1000 miles is extraordinarily high oil consumption which indicates wear or a fault in the engine. I doubt that any additive is going to solve that. Consider this: if molybdenum additives were such miracles I would expect every car manufacturer in the world would be promoting them.

My apologies for not having a panel of experts available for free consultations 24 hours per day. Remind me how much you are paying for this service and I'll ensure you get a refund.

How? The information may help others who come this way.

I would have no qualms about new DSG boxes. 25 years ago the early ones were a little troublesome when they were introduced, but nowadays they are as reliable and durable as manual gearboxes. That's not to say they last forever, but the same applies to manuals. They will need maintenance over their lives just like manuals, but should last as long as the engine and other major car components. And of course there will be no more clutch costs. So your decision comes down to whether you prefer the transmission to take care of itself, or you actually like to be involved in gear changing. Personally I fail to see the attraction of repeatedly tramping on a pedal and waving a metal pole sticking out of the floor just to make the car perform its basic function of travelling from A to B, when everything else about the car such as windows, seat position, mirror position, temperature etc. is automated. The crudity of a manual gear change amongst the sophistication of all the other control functions is jarring to my way of thinking.

I can't help with fuse location except to point to the underside of the fusebox cover. They often have fuse information on them. More to the point are you sure the fuse has blown? Cigarette lighters often burn out because the heating elements are not kept clean.

I moved this to A5 section as it does not belong in Banter.

If the battery went flat over a few days it is dead and needs to be renewed. Spoilt batteries can not be resurrected no matter how long you leave them on charge and no matter what a simple voltage test may tell you. Sulphation, or its equivalent on a modern battery, has left it with an internal fault that can not be repaired.

I have never come across wheel bearings that have over-heated unless there is a lubrication fault, which seems unlikely if the car has been well maintained. That leads me to wonder if the caravan is over loading them. Have you checked the load on the tow hitch?

Two words I'm afraid Gareth, not one, and it's definitely not an Americanism. It's odd how simple slips become ingrained. For example I used to be able to spell accomodate without a thought, but now I have to look it up every time because I double the "m", single the "c", or substitute an "a" for an "o" or various permutations of the three. Cliff.

I suspect your computer believes "incase" (as one word) to be a name or proper noun, though it should actually be two words "in case". Do you have Incase listed in the computer dictionary by chance? If so, try deleting it.

Helicoil is more than strong enough for the job, BUT you do need to accurately centre the drill bit and keep it square, which rules out a hand held drill unless you have a fair bit of experience in using one.