cliffcoggin

If you suspect air bags, spray them with soapy water and watch for bubbles.

Alan. There is a potential to damage tyres or bodywork if you get this wrong. I suggest you get professional advice on the matter before changing anything.

That seems to confirm it is the new camshaft causing the problem, though I don't understand how or why.

How long did you own the car before changing the camshaft, and did the DPF block in that time?

I know nothing about Carista or similar OBD readers, so let's hope someone else can chip in.

Michael. Two points which may or may not have a bearing on your problem: 1/ Did you have the new battery coded to the car? It needs to be for proper functionality. 2/ A3s often had faults develop in their instrument panels. The cluster can be repaired for a few hundred pounds or replaced with a new one from Audi for many times the repair cost.

Fingers crossed.

That's good to read, though disappointing it needed to be done on a four year old car. Perhaps the design was updated since your car was made. I would have marked your above message as the solution if possible, but I believe you have to do that yourself.

I don't know for certain, but what I have read indicated the Alko hitch needs more clearance around it than others, hence some installers recommend a swan neck mounted ball. I suggest you measure the clearances around your ball and ask Alko if it is suitable.

You are worrying unnecessarily. 12 mm is plenty and should last months or even years, depending how harsh you are on the brakes and how rusty the discs become.

Possibly one of the clips that secure it is loose or misaligned. Is there any sign it has been removed since manufacture? Think scratches or cracks around the lip where a lever might have been inserted.

It seems to me that you are determined to buy one of these gadgets whatever anybody here or elsewhere advises, so why not go ahead and fit it. Do please let us know how it works out. Please also stop using this forum as a vehicle for your complaints about other organisations. If you want to discuss the merits of this gadget that is prefectly fine, but blatant generalisations about groups or nations is not.

It sounds like you have one of the notorious oil guzzling engines with badly designed pistons and rings that were made for a few years. Many solutions have been tried over time, but the only realistic option is to have re-designed pistons and rings fitted, an extremely expensive option as I doubt Audi will do the work under warranty after 20 years. If you bought it from a dealer in the last 30 days take it back for a refund.

I find most big companies do all they can to avoid talking to their customers. Phones that aren't answered except by robots, AI help assistants that send one round in circles, email addresses withheld, letters that aren't answered. It all amounts to taking your money then hiding behind impenetrable barriers.

That would seem to rule out neglect.

That's good to read. Does that mean the oil had leaked out after the first change?

Same problem may or may not have the same solution. What have you checked?

If the pin was truly welded into its socket, there must have been a high resistance at the contacts caused by corrosion, or weak springs, or dirt, or something else. Whether this was the fault of your cable, or the car, or your neglect of both is impossible to say. In the absense of evidence I think you have to bite the bullet and accept the cost. Do you charge outside? Do you refit the rubber cap on the cable at the end of every charging session?

A hood sensor perhaps you mean? Yes it could be, but if two of the wires into the door were damaged there is a good chance others are also damaged. In your position I would investigate those again before spending on a new sensor. The damage to the insulation may not be easily visible and may extend further than you expect. While you have the door card off it would be worth checking the window switch connectors are not damaged, and that any earth wires are well attached. A multi meter would also help to test continuity and the switch contacts if you have one.

Changing the latches sounds like a lot of work for something that may not solve the fault. Have you dismissed the earlier suggestions regarding the fault? As for the warning being OTT, see the green banner towards the top of each main forum page addressed to new members. It's strange that some people have excuses for not seeing forum responses but always see warnings. If your problem warranted the effort to write a question, surely it deserves as much effort to look for replies.

You could also try one of the independant workshops belonging to HEVRA. Do let us know the outcome.

That suggests to me a loose or corroded connection.

And advise your insurer.

The sticky flakey layer is a form of lacquer which is likely why paint stripper is not shifting it. Try wiping with cellulose thinners or lacquer thinners.

Is it automatic transmission? Pressing the throttle and brake pedals simultaneously will cause the drive system warning message. I don't know about the TPMS message.