Bigdave1230

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Bigdave1230 last won the day on March 4 2017

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About Bigdave1230

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Dave
  • Location
    West Yorkshire
  • Audi Model
    Q7
  • Audi Year
    2008

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  1. If I was looking for a mk1 Q7 I’d get a 2011 onwards as this was the year where the 6 speed gearbox was changed to an 8 speed unit which makes the car cruise a lot better and drops the tax bracket so it’s no longer nearly £600 a year. Also the mmi will be a 3G unit with sd card storage rather than the 2G unit which had a 6 cd unit built into the dash but no sd card storage. There are 2 versions of the 2G unit (2006-2009) a high and a low. All cars which have sat nav are high versions which has a colour screen. The low unit has a red screen which doesn’t look very attractive. Easy way to tell if a car has sat nav if looking at pictures before visiting a dealer is to look at the rear roof section as sat nav cars have a shark fin at the back. The 3G unit can be manipulated in vcds to copy cds onto the jukebox storage and also play dvds whilst in motion. Cream of the crop is a 2014-2015 sport edition which has the V12 body kit, 21 inch alloys and almost every option available. Expect to pay around £22k for a good low miles example with a pan roof.
  2. Hi does anybody know if the newer generation Q7 3.0 engine with 218bhp Is “exactly” the same engine as the 3.0 272bhp engine but just with a different Ecu map? Looking at changing my current 2008 Q7 to a newer one and have been looking at the 272bhp as I think the 218bhp one will be a bit gutless. But would get a high spec one and for a few hundred quid remap it. Both 218 and 272 engines remap to 320bhp which makes me think it’s the same engine but don’t want to get a “weaker” engine and push it out of its comfort zone if it’s not. cheers Dave
  3. A common place for the aircon to get a leak is behind the plastic inner wheel arch on the passenger side. The is a pipe that runs through there and up into the engine bay where the fuel filter is. It’s held onto the body with a metal clip with a rubber bush. The rubber deteriorates and ends up metal on metal until it rubs through. Just replaced mine for that reason.
  4. Level sensor. You should be able to turn the steering wheel to see them without having to get under the car.
  5. Check the level sensor on the upper front arm on both sides. If it’s come loose and fallen out the car will think it is higher than it actually is so will lower the front to try and level itself
  6. Bagpippinandy do compressor repair kits for about £25ish. Normally the compressor gets very noisy when the piston ring is worn. I’d measure the centre of the wheel to the wheel arch on all 4 wheels to see if there is an obvious difference on one wheel then check the sensor etc on that wheel. A leaking air bag would make the car sink overnight. Does the car try to level itself Slightly if you park it on a slope then get out and lock it?
  7. I’d check/replace the fuel filter for signs of anything nasty in there that could be restricting fuel flow but it sounds like a fuel pressure/pump issue. My mate had a problem with a regulator that created a low fuel pressure fault code but I think his symptoms were a little different to what your experiencing. Unfortunately he’s moved to Australia so I can’t just ask him. If you have vcds you should be able to do some checks in the adaptation. I’ll email him and see if he replies. Good luck
  8. Might sound stupid but does the rear washer jet work and are the rear number plate lights work? The rear washer jet connects onto the rear wiper motor and is prone to leaking into the boot panel where it corrodes the terminals for the number plate lights and boot release. Tell tale sign is one number plate light out and the rear washer jet not spraying onto the window but hearing the washer motor. The boot can start playing up too as in you press the button to open it and it either does nothing or opens an inch then immediately try’s closing again. Hope you get sorted
  9. Had a fault on my 2008 Q7 where the car cranks over for 2-3 seconds then stops cranking. Starter turns over fast when it does crank. Leave the car for 20 mins and it will crank and fire up no problem. Seems to happen when the car was warm but I can’t say it never did it when cold as I can’t remember if it did. Vcds shows no fault and when it’s running it doesn’t miss a beat. Very intermittent and very very very 🤬ing annoying............................... Replacing the crank shaft sensor seems to have cured it. Hope this helps anybody with a similar problem. 👍🏻
  10. Probably a strut valve or a level sensor. Look at the front upper wishbone through the spokes of the alloy to see if the level sensor has popped out of the arm and making the car think it’s set low on that side hence why it’s raised itself up and now can’t understand what level it’s at. If you park the car on a slope and leave it does the front or rear of the car try to level itself slightly? If it does it’s probably a sticking valve located on the strut with the air pipe going into it. Measure the car on each corner from the centre of the wheel to the wheel arch and see if one side is higher than the other. The higher side is probably where to investigate but code checking it with vcds is always a good way to go. ( when measuring the heights the front will always measure a little lower than the rear but really you are looking for a difference across the axel).
  11. I replaced my rear discs, pads and handbrake shoes about 2 months ago. The 2 bolts holding the calipers on are female multi spline bolts. Sorry I can’t tell you what size male tool you need but it’s quite big and has got more splines than a standard torx key and is unique to VAG. Honestly they are on that tight that if you don’t have that tool then don’t attempt it as you can’t get into it then with grips etc. My handbrake wasn’t very good so I bought handbrake shoes as I didn’t want to take the discs off to find I needed them. Turns out the shoe surface had broken away and was none existent (common problem because everybody just leaves them in park) so if your handbrake isn’t holding I’d recommend getting those too. Sorry I can’t say what size the tool is as I used a mates garage and used his tools 🛠 but google will probably tell you. Good luck
  12. Cole can you post the error code you are getting to try and shed some light on what’s wrong with yours
  13. I had the same problem with mine. Rear suspension stuck higher than the front. Replaced the valves in the rear struts. Cost about £22 each from kuftech I think 🤔. You can get the special tool to remove them which looks like a socket with a slot on either side but I used a small pair of grips which worked fine. Used some thread sealer on the new ones and the car has been perfect since. If the suspension is stuck up at the back or the front then you will get an error code for the compressor shutting down due to over temperature as the car will constantly try and lower and raise the working corners of the car to level the ride height but this doesn’t mean the compressor is knackered. My last Q7 had a worn compressor which I tried the Andy repair kit but didn’t make a real difference so bought a replacement off eBay for about £250 and worked perfectly. Only takes about 45 mins to swap and is located under the drivers side door area. You can use a trolley jack to take some weight off the car and see if the car starts to raise. If it does then the compressor ring is worn.
  14. You have listed your car as 2011 s line so I’m guessing you have swapped LED headlights with LED headlights (led eye brows). There are actually 2 types of LED headlightS - bi xenon and tri xenon, tri xenon have self level adaptation built into them bi xenon don’t. All s lines I believe are tri xenon with the se models being bi xenon. If you have put bi xenon in then you might be getting this weird fault as a result. If you upgrade pre 2009 Q7’s to led headlights you get similar faults until you recode the car. You should be able to sort using vag com but check the originals against the new ones. They should say if they are bi or tri on them. Hope this helps!
  15. Forgot to put a result to this post. It was a faulty release valve on the passenger rear suspension strut. Bought 2 replacements from knufftech I believe for about £20 each. Replaced both rear drivers and passenger sides and car works fine again.