Bigdave1230

The suspension issue you mention shouldn’t drain the battery overnight but I did have a similar issue on my previous Q7 which turned out to be the auxiliary heater. Wouldn’t drain it every night but maybe once a week. Only tracked it down as one morning when I went out to the car I could hear a small fan noise from the passenger wheel arch. A scan of vcds showed “auxiliary heater locked” it wouldn’t unlock and is quite common on older cars to fail as I’d noticed it didn’t work when I bought the car. Removed the auxiliary heater fuse from the passenger side of the dash board and it cured it. 🤔 it might have been the drivers side dash board but think it’s the passenger side.

Yes but the earths that corrode are accessible from under the car and aren’t the easiest to get to but yeah you can clean them up. Easiest thing to do is get a jump lead and put it from somewhere metal on the engine and the negative terminal under the bonnet on the passenger side and try starting the car to see if it makes a difference. If it turns over quicker then it looks like the earths are corroded.

Sorry I put dpf sensor I ment egr sensor

It looks to be pointing to something on the exhaust side. The torque intervention is usually caused by a restriction or pressure issue which I’ve seen when dpf’s are clogged but it’s just a safety thing to stop the turbo getting damaged and if it was a dpf problem there would be other fault codes. The first place I would be looking is the turbo actuator then checking the dpf and sensor even if somebody has already changed that at another garage it’s worth checking over to see what they did. Did the car seem down on power or smoke in the days before it went wrong

Have they said what fault codes are coming up when it goes into limp mode? At what point does it go into limp ie under acceleration/ as soon as it’s turned on/ at a certain speed or rpm? Etc

My 2014 did something similar when I got it. The start stop often had the deactivated symbol on the dash and on the occasion it did work it didn’t restart the car and would beep and put error lights on the dash. Turning the ignition off and back on would restart it but slowly. That was caused by a faulty battery. Replaced and it’s been fine since.

Oddly enough mine did this on Saturday just gone 😂. It was a faulty rear left abs sensor. £55 from Halfords (eurocarparts want £77 for the same Bosch item). It threw the tpms light up along with the traction control, and and the suspension light up and the traction control kicked in and wouldn’t let the car set off for about 1-2 minutes then the car realised the readings it was getting were false and let it drive away and worked fine but the lights stayed on even after turning off and back on again. it’s held in by 1 allen key bolt but can take a bit of wiggling to get out.

Yeah I got one like that. Stuck it in the rear quarter panel and worked fine

2011 was the year that the car got an 8 speed gear box instead of the 6 speed in 2010 and earlier. I think there was a slight facelift too and a slight engine refinement but the main difference is the gearbox which makes it better on fuel and nicer to drive on the motorway. It might of got the start stop too. Early 2011 cars (60 plate) and some early 11 plate cars probably won’t have the revisions. Get one with the 8 speed box it’s a lot nicer to drive

Sorry it connected to the rear of the sat nav dvd drive which was in the boot in the spare wheel well on the drivers side. You need some Audi radio keys to remove the drive to get to the connection

Had this before and it was down to a faulty shark fin antenna on the roof. I bought a San nav magnetic antenna from eBay (about £8) and fitted it in the boot. Worked perfect after that.

It was definitely ecutesting.com that I sent mine to not cartech. They confirmed mine was faulty but didn’t have one to exchange it with so refunded me and sent mine back.

I’m inclined to think it’s possibly an ecu fault. I suspect when you loosen an injector pipe and crank that you’ll get a diesel but might seem a little bubbly making you think it’s drawing air in and lead you into an expensive world of changing components on the fuel system. I would look for a local independent mobile auto electrician to come and test the ecu etc. Should only cost a callout and be less than £100 and might save a lot of chasing. Alternatively you can send the ecu away to be checked/repaired 🤔 there used to be a company on the internet ecutesting.com that charged about £250 to repair/exchange them but if no fault was found then they refunded and sent back but you have to pay about £20 postage. I’ve had a similar fault like this before and it got very expensive to chase and sort. ( it was the ecu in the end but I only found this out after about 2k into it 🤦🏻‍♂️). Theres a post about it with all the symptoms somewhere earlier in the forum posts.

Hi did the car cut out when driving or simply not start one morning? Did the glow plug light flash at any point?

👍🏻