Bigdave1230

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About Bigdave1230

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Dave
  • Location
    West Yorkshire
  • Audi Model
    Q7
  • Audi Year
    2008

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  1. I had a previous Q7 that got oil starvation do to a failed/faulty oil pump. Was driving it when the car started to behave sluggish like a tyre was flat then started with a faint taping. Parked the car up over night and checked the oil in the morning and found it to be low. 3 litres of oil later (I had checked the oil 2 weeks before and it was bang on the max level) started the car and all seemed fine until it started to get warm then the taping started to a point it was able to be heard in the car at any speed. Took it to a mates garage less than 5 mins away and whilst we were looking at it and ringing a mate of his who used to work at Audi who was flapping his lips about some sort of tensioner which made no sense it decided to throw a con rod through the side of the block. Spoke to a few Audi guys who all said they had seen oil pump failure on these when they get around the 100000 mile mark. Fortunately I had only had the car 4 weeks and managed to get my money back and bought another one. My car hadn’t leaked any oil and didn’t smoke but did sound like a top end camshaft tap rather than a bottom end knock. Did the recovery guy take the oil cap off when it was running to see if oil was getting to the top of the engine? The fact that it wouldn’t start and needed more power to crank does sort of suggest that it’s starting to seize. Sorry to be the one to say it but this doesn’t sound like a cheap fix and I really hope you can get some sort of remedy from the place that rebuilt it before if it’s not do many miles since they did it last time. Really hope you can get something sorted as I know it’s gutting when something like this happens.
  2. Air releasing after you get out and lock up is normal it’s just the car levelling itself. I have a Bosch Agm start stop battery on mine which isn’t coded in because it doesn’t have that model in its coding and it’s fine. Coding is only so the car knows at what point to turn everything off in the car if your sat in it with the ignition on and not running so it still has enough power to start the car.
  3. What is the cars actual fault symptoms?
  4. Should be fine. Has it fixed your problem?
  5. Yeah your right I just didn’t want to go too far into it. I thought that was the simplest way to answer that’s all.
  6. Does the fan gradually slow down until it stops or just cut out like flicking a switch?
  7. All negatives on the car are linked. The negative terminal on the battery goes to the body of the car. The negative from the starter goes to the body that’s why they are called earths/earth straps. The problem isn’t the positive as that’s a dedicated wire that indirectly goes straight to the positive terminal on the battery. The negatives/earths at the bottom of the engine are open to the elements and corrode against the body and as such mean that the system can’t make a good circuit. By putting an extra earth/negative at the top of the engine the you are improving the circuit. You could just get a jump lead and connect from the terminal in the picture to anywhere on the engine to see if it cures your fault.
  8. 😳 it’s negative don’t try it from the positive! You can go to any bolt on the engine as long as it’s not into anything plastic. I’m not sure what gauge cable it is as the auto electrition supplied it but you should be able to get one from any car spares shop.
  9. The units are coded to the car to try to make them useless if stolen. 🤔 I think the head unit and the mmi screen are a pair so might be why you aren’t getting sound but I think the mmi usually says “no cd” rather then plays no sound though. I had a problem with my mmi screen not long after I bought mine and the garage said they had replaced the screen and the cd changer. So if you can try the 09 mmi screen with the 09 cd changer it might cure it but I’d be tempted to run a scan on vcds before paying anymore money out. I dare say the scan will probably say it’s in “component protection” mode. Which as far as I’m aware only audi can remove with VAS software linking back to Germany. Audi probably won’t want to help you code a 2nd hand unit and try telling you only new units can be coded.
  10. If I was looking for a mk1 Q7 I’d get a 2011 onwards as this was the year where the 6 speed gearbox was changed to an 8 speed unit which makes the car cruise a lot better and drops the tax bracket so it’s no longer nearly £600 a year. Also the mmi will be a 3G unit with sd card storage rather than the 2G unit which had a 6 cd unit built into the dash but no sd card storage. There are 2 versions of the 2G unit (2006-2009) a high and a low. All cars which have sat nav are high versions which has a colour screen. The low unit has a red screen which doesn’t look very attractive. Easy way to tell if a car has sat nav if looking at pictures before visiting a dealer is to look at the rear roof section as sat nav cars have a shark fin at the back. The 3G unit can be manipulated in vcds to copy cds onto the jukebox storage and also play dvds whilst in motion. Cream of the crop is a 2014-2015 sport edition which has the V12 body kit, 21 inch alloys and almost every option available. Expect to pay around £22k for a good low miles example with a pan roof.
  11. Hi does anybody know if the newer generation Q7 3.0 engine with 218bhp Is “exactly” the same engine as the 3.0 272bhp engine but just with a different Ecu map? Looking at changing my current 2008 Q7 to a newer one and have been looking at the 272bhp as I think the 218bhp one will be a bit gutless. But would get a high spec one and for a few hundred quid remap it. Both 218 and 272 engines remap to 320bhp which makes me think it’s the same engine but don’t want to get a “weaker” engine and push it out of its comfort zone if it’s not. cheers Dave
  12. A common place for the aircon to get a leak is behind the plastic inner wheel arch on the passenger side. The is a pipe that runs through there and up into the engine bay where the fuel filter is. It’s held onto the body with a metal clip with a rubber bush. The rubber deteriorates and ends up metal on metal until it rubs through. Just replaced mine for that reason.
  13. Level sensor. You should be able to turn the steering wheel to see them without having to get under the car.