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  2. Very nice. Think I've been past it.
  3. Hi Magnet. I’ll contact garage and find out which one they put in. Am i right in thinking that if it reaches 90 then its working correctly though?
  4. Thanks Naresh, I would suggest restricted use and very frequent level checking when you do have to use it. Don’t depend on the ‘low coolant ‘ message popping up to remind you to do that. Regards, Gareth.
  5. Hello David, Seems like you have your mA in a twist. Power consumption when the car has fully shut down (possibly in excess of 30 mins after being locked) should be around 50 ish mA, so 1.6 ma must be wrong. My guess is you are talking amp figures here rather than mA. Try disconnecting the alternator output plug - might be discharging through a faulty diode. Regards, Gareth.
  6. Any particular reason why your Sign On has now changed to Guest, Paul?
  7. Today
  8. First question first before moving on:- Brand of new thermostat used?
  9. Welcome Mark, I fear you are about to throw your money away by engaging in this ‘carbon clean’ - a bit like putting on your best designer gear, when you haven’t changed your underpants for a week! If it were mine:- Check how much fuel is in it - hopefully not much - and add 2 gallons of E5 to which you have added a fair dose of Redex. (See this morning’s response to a similar issue with an aging convertible). Get it plugged in and find what codes are showing. It seems you have been told it has service history, but you have not seen the evidence before committing to buy. Bit of a chance taken there, but…. I would certainly keep my ‘carbon clean’ funds as far down in my pocket to render it inaccessible. Please let us know how you get on Mark. Regards, Gareth.
  10. Many thanks Gregg. Now understandable in knowledge of stale fuel. I would suggest you only use E5, and add a fair slosh of Redex to every gallon. Well worth treating it to an oil and filter change using respected branded filters and oil. Kind regards, Gareth.
  11. Hi im new to the group, wondering if anyone can help. I had an issue with my car, engine was only reaching around 70 degree temp. So had the main thermostat replaced. Now the car does reach 90 and stays there well, but it takes a long time to get there. Maybe 30mins of driving. Obviously isnt normal still. Ive been told to change the 2nd thermostat by some other owners, but when i give my engine code to suppliers, they are telling me i dont have that part in my engine. Anyone resolved the slow warm up issue? Engine CJCD. 2.0 Diesel CVT thanks alot, look forword to any replies
  12. MartinS-AudiA4

    Martins A4 Black Edition

    2012 Audi B8 2litre TDI Saloon in white.
  13. Just outside Dornoch, about an hour north of Inverness.
  14. hi gareth thanks for the reply,i done a coolant flush last night and it was badly needed as a lot of sediment flushed out,after putting in fresh petrol and driving it things seem a lot better as i think it was parked up since feb,it needs some work as in discs pads etc so ill keep the forum updated on my progress
  15. I hope the service history gives you an idea of what parts have recently been changed. My worry, is that the cars been px'd because of the issue either because the previous owner found it was going to be an expensive repair, or they had enough chasing the issue and spending money on various parts to fix it.
  16. You're welcome 🙂 Yes. I believe a crank sensor can.
  17. The car stalled again this morning at cold start and after a couple of tries it started, no faults came on the dash and the car worked fine for the rest of the day. I have a basic bluetooth OBD2 scanner so I connected it after the car was idling with no issues. The scanner showed two fault codes: (also see attached image) - OBD-II: P0016 Crankshaft position/camshaft position, bank 1 sensor A - correlation. - Engine control unit: 14868 P001600: Crankshaft Position-Cramshaft Position, Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A PO34100: Camshaft Pos. Sensor Circ., Range/Performance Could the above fault codes have anything to do with the car stalling at cold start?
  18. Yes, the new battery coded to the car.
  19. @Steve Q Thanks for the links, I will have a look 👍
  20. Yesterday
  21. Thanks steve, The car is 2009 with 84,000 miles. Says it has lots of history with it, and apart from possibly doing the spark plugs, I dont think the seller has done much as it was a px for them. and they cant throw any more money at it, so i got it a bit cheaper. it hasnt been driven for nearly a year as its been sat in their yard as its the lower end of cars they usually deal with. But the issue was present before it sat for a year, Maybe best is to report here the fault codes in a day or so once done, and go from there. The carbon clean is being done on thurs, so i will know more after that Thanks for the reply tho
  22. If a cheap aftermarket bag was used then this could be at fault. Multiple cases of cheap bags failing quickly b
  23. Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Sounds an interesting project. You'll definitely have a better idea after you've got fault codes. How much service history is with the vehicle? Can the seller give you any idea of what work they've done to resolve the issue? Could it be a cam sensor, crank sensor, maf sensor or a fuel delivery issue?.
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